Divers Like It Dry!

Divers have a tough life sometimes, especially in a logistical sense (and in the way that they have to relax on boats and then dive in the most beautiful spots on the globe – it’s a tragedy!). A diver has to take a small fortunes worth of delicate gear from his home, on a plane, in a taxi, into a dive gear box, onto a boat and then into the sea. This lengthy chain of perilous activities tends to take its toll on dive gear, but usually dive equipment is pretty tough (and surprisingly waterproof!) and can handle the abuse. The really big problem arises when you want to bring non-dive gear along for the ride too, because most cameras aren’t waterproof until they are in a case and there are very few phones out there that can handle a heavy rainstorm. The solution, of course, is to protect your valuables, books, spare clothes and food from the elements in a bag. The best bag to take is a waterproof bag, the more waterproof the better! This conveniently brings us to the topic of the day; I have a lineup of waterproof gear bags to review, ranging from a tiny valuables bag up to a massive gear sack.

Feelfree are a kayaking company first and foremost, which has given them a lot of experience in keeping dry things dry. In kayaking you need a dry bag which is capable of being completely submersed in water and not leaking, this is so that if you capsize your kayak, your gear will remain free from moisture. This dedication to hardy, practical bags has made the brand very popular with divers (especially in rainy South-east Asia) who want to get wet, but keep their dry gear dry.

I don’t have the space to review every bag in Feelfree’s extensive lineup, so I’m only going to look at the bags that I think are the most practical or are the most popular.

Valuables Bag, “Waist pack” – 0.5 litres

Starting with the smallest is the little Waist Pack. This small storage solution is primarily for your camera, phone or money. You will struggle to fit anything else in there. It has a gender neutral design that isn’t particularly aimed at any demographic which means the whole family can wear one without feeling embarrassed. It comes with a detachable strap which allows the wearer to turn it from a belt clipped design, to a shoulder-strap bag. You may also choose to remove the straps altogether and simply use it as a dry pocket inside your backpack, gear bag or handbag.

The only gripe that you may have with the bag is that although it’s light, simple and attractive – it’s not as waterproof as you may wish. It will certainly take heavy splashing with no leaks, but I’m not sure how well it’d cope with brief dunks in the sea (despite it saying otherwise)

Small And Light, Ideal For Keeping Your Latest Gadget Dry!

Dry Tube – 5 litres to 40 litres

This is the most versatile bag in the range and it makes use of a similar design to all the other dry tubes on the market. The bag is simply a welded PVC tarpaulin tube with an open end at the top, fixed onto the lip of this top is a flexible band that allows the user to fold the top over. Once the top has been folded over three to four times, he or she can buckle the two ends of the band together which seals the bag tight. This design has been well proven to offer excellent waterproofness that will withstand full (although short) submersions in the water. It is also so simple that it is virtually indestructible.

I am also very fond of the strap system which is a simple shoulder band that makes it quick to put on or off. The thickness of the strap does mean, however, that a heavy load might hurt your shoulder. Also, the bag is not compartmentalised which leads to items rattling around inside. The long thin design can sometimes make finding what you want difficult, especially if the item you seek is at the bottom, which it will inevitably be!

For the casual beach goer, or the diver with some valuables, a camera and a change of clothes, I recommend the 10 litre bag. If you wish to haul around a families’ worth of stuff or you are going on an extended trip then opt for a larger size (just bear in mind that strap – heavy loads can be sore!).

The Dry Tube Can Be Bought In A Huge Range Of Sizes And Colours.

Laptop Case – 10 litres

The amount of divers I see on the boat with a laptop out in the open on the way home from a days diving is quite shocking. What is even more surprising is the fact that a lot of them just have the laptops in a foam case inside a normal backpack with no provision for heavy rain or dropping it overboard. The gang at Feelfree have attempted to solve this issue by creating a waterproof backpack that will swallow a laptop comfortably and hold it securely.

They’ve been clever about it too – they made it look smart enough that you could consider taking it to work (if you’re a games designer) but casual enough to wear on your back while cycling (or jumping onto a boat). It’s plenty big enough for your laptop, camera, snacks and maybe even a dry t-shirt or two. You can carry it with the comfortable shoulder straps or as a briefcase with the side handle.

My only issue with it is that it’s only splashproof, not submersion proof. Which is probably sufficient for most uses being as people rarely go diving with their laptop on their tanks, but I would rather not take chances and put my laptop into a dry tube which is more water resistant.

Slick And Practical, A Well Balanced Hybrid Bag.

Dry Duffel – 25 litres to 75 litres

I don’t need to talk about this bag too much simply because it is almost identical to the Dry Tube, apart from two major differences: one, it is carried horizontally and two, it opens from the side. This side opening is ideal for combatting the issue I have with the tube, i.e. The inability to get what I want out of the bag without having to pour the entire contents out to get it. It is just as waterproof, just as simple and slightly more comfortable (due to the padded strap) than the tube.

The duffel is designed to be taken as an overnight bag (or “overweek” bag in the case of the 75 litre!) so you may find it is a little overkill for a day dive, but ideal for a liveaboard.

The Duffels Are More Spacious And More Handsome, Just Don't Overload Them...

Dry Tank – 40 litres to 60 litres

The Dry Tank is a hybrid of the Dry Tube and the laptop case. It is a large rucksack that utilises the same design principles as the dry tube. The tank has a huge internal volume that is fairly easy to access because it has a wide opening. There still isn’t any compartments inside the bag so organising your stuff is finished when you chuck it in!

As a rucksack it performs well, using well padded straps and a sternum strap to distribute load. It is a comfortable way to move heavy gear about for extended periods. If I knew it was a long walk to the pier then I’d rather take the Dry Tank than the Dry Duffel because the Tank is much more ergonomically designed. Conversely, if I was flying with my bag I’d take the Duffel because the straps on the Tank are very easily tangled and will catch on everything!

The Dry Tank Is Great For Big Loads That Need To Be Carried Big Distances.

Horizon Gear Bag – 90 litres

I’ve presented a ton of ways to keep your dry things dry, but I’ve not discussed what you should do with your wet things…Feelfree have a solution for that too!

The Horizon Gear Bag is an enormous mesh duffel bag that allows wet gear to drain and then air while in transport. The bag can be worn with the shoulder straps like a rucksack which makes carrying a load of heavy gear much more pleasant (though you will probably get a wet back and butt, bear that in mind if you’ve just changed into your dry clothes!). There is also an array of handles in convenient spots to make handling the heavy stuff easier.

On the top of the sack (when it’s lying horizontally) is a dry pocket that can be used to store your dry valuables or spare gear. This is a nice touch that allows this gear bag to act as your only bag, rather than needing a dry bag and wet bag.

Vast Storage For Your Gear And Dry Storage For Your Valuables.

Final Thoughts

Feelfree have been thinking hard about what the modern adventurer needs, and have produced a huge array of solutions for a number of damp problems. They have managed to keep the designs simple and robust which are the two magic words in dive gear. My only problem with their design philosophy is the lack of compartmentalisation in their products which can lead to rattling gear. If they address this little issue appropriately then they will be onto a winner!

Do you have a Feelfree bag? What’s your favourite style in their lineup? Do you have any sad tales of people dropping things “in the drink”? Please share your thoughts with us using the comment section bellow.

Happy (dry) Bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell

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The Sherwood Octopus is one that has been totally revamped to provide the best breathing performance to the scuba diver when he/she is under water. This Octopus is one that is ideally recommended for both recreational and technical diving. The Sherwood Octopus is one that has kept its name and maintains the dedication to the rugged reliability that is combined with the easiness of maintenance. When it comes to rental applications this Octopus has been a top favorite over the ages mainly because of its simplicity and reliability.

The Octopus is one that has been redesigned totally and in the first stage you will be able to find the balanced piston for consistent intermediate pressure diver control over a huge range of pressure supplies. The sealed chamber of this Octopus is one that is patented dry and this helps in the maintenance of a clean interior. There is also another benefit and that is that this Octopus is one that also eliminates the icing in the first stage too. There is also a high quality capacity inlet filter. The Octopus is one that also has four LP ports along with two HP ports that have hose routing options that are versatile.

The second stage has a bigger diaphragm that renders the optimum response for inhalation. There is also a large exhaust valve for reduced resistance exhalation. The Octopus is also one that has a resilient rubber seat that is made of silicon. There is also a stainless steel cam that has good precision along with a Delrin lever for effortless and smooth breathing. For rugged applications there is housing that is a high impact one.

This Brut is one that is a popular one in the scuba diving world. It is one that is simple to operate and cost effective to a very large extent. Since all the parts are easily available you will find that the costs of maintenance are low. The Octopus is one that faces no threat of contamination and this is the reason why it is considered to be the first choice of many recreational and technical scuba divers. The second stage is a very light weighted one and this renders the diver with a host of benefits and advantages when under the water. The diver faces no discomfort in the mouth and most professional divers are comfortable with this mouthpiece. It is also very durable and compact for the scuba diver to use when under water.

The Brut is one that provides smooth and effortless breathing and this is the reason why it is considered to be a very convenient and economical Octopus. This Octopus is one that is the first choice of hard core scuba divers and this is the reason why it is considered to be a primary regulator.  This Octopus is one that has good precision and this is the reason why you can go in for it. You can get the optimal response for inhalation for the diver and this is the reason why you can go for it.

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If you are a female scuba diver you can go in for the Oceanic Hera Woman’s BC that is one of the best and gorgeous BC available in the market today. This BC is one that has been made keeping the female in mind and this is the reason why it is comfortable and fitting. The BC is one that has been designed with female friendly features with the objective to fir perfectly around the female form. There are ample adjustments that can be made to the equipment to make the BC fit snugly without tampering with the functionality and the utility of the BC. Female scuba divers have reported that this BC is one of the best and the most comfortable one that has been made and when it comes to selecting a BC this is the first and obvious choice of millions of female divers across the world.

The Hybrid bladder of the BC is one that provides you with the combination of rear inflation and jacket style BC’s. The patent custom fit of the BC is one that provides you with multi-shoulder straps so that you do not face any problems when in water. The BC is such that has been designed to fit any woman irrespective of her size or shape. The BC is one that also has the benefits of the QLR Integrated Weight System. This system accommodates about 20 lbs in addition to 5 lbs dual rear weight pouches for helping the diver in water positioning. The weight pockets in the BC are loaded in a position that is at a slight down angle to help in self loading. The BC is also contoured in the right places to give extreme comfort to the female. The back pack that is padded also has reinforced shoulders along with an adjustable sternum strap that ensures that the wearer gets comfort and stability. The female also gets the benefits of the instrument retractor sleeve and the Spinner BC knife mount.

This belt has been designed after an extensive survey and research conducted by over 300 scuba divers. This has given rise to the specific design that now exists. The BC does not look like a male BC and at the same time is rough and rugged to handle all the pressures of the water with ease. It provides the female with diving equipment that ensures that she gets the full comfort no matter how deep it is. The integrated inflator is one that has an ergonomically designed and this is the reason why it is functional and provides immense utility to the female. There is a button that can be pressed and you can produce the exact amount of airflow that you require when you are diving. With the aid of this unique feature the diver gets the maximum amount of buoyancy that is required for the water. This gives the diver more control when swimming through ascents. In this manner the diver can get the ultimate comfort without hassles.

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Scubapro MK25/S600 Regulator

The Scubapro MK25/S600 has been rated to be one of the best diving regulators that are available in the market in the modern times. This product when teamed up with the first stage MK25 becomes a deadly combination to the technical diver no matter the sea depth and coldness. This regulator is considered to be the ideal match to the first stage MK 25 as it has the utility of being adjustable to suit the preferences of the diver and sea diving conditions. The main benefit of this regulator is that it offers the benefits of effortless breathing to the diver. The product also enjoys positive reviews in the nature of its design precision and lightweight features. The regulator has the utility of having enhanced performance under cold water and the material is also resistant to corrosion.

With the aid of the second stage regulator the diver has no aifficulties breathing. The regulator has the ability to reduce the stress and also enhance the protection and the safety of the diver. The diver has the advantages of breathing smoothly and needs to make low efforts to do so. The regulator provides amounts of air that can be controlled by the diver. The regulator also has a balanced flow performance that is both classic and designated for rendering stability and reliability to the diver. This gives simple and solid performance to the diver and never disappoints him/her.

The second stage needs to be combined with the MK25 first stage and the general advantages of the piston lies in the fewer maintenance costs and reliability. The mechanism that is deployed is very simple and effective. The first stage design enjoys the reputation of being reliable for the provision of high delivery of air with better control. The first stage delivers more air to the second stage and even when there are changes in the tank pressure. With the aid of the balanced piston the diver has the benefits of components that are sensitive and lightweight. The balanced piston also gives instant and fast breathing responses to the diver when under water. The piston ensures that the diver gets the instant delivery of air whenever required and this in turn gives rise to an extremely high flow of air no matter how deep the diver may be in. This feature of the regulator works pretty well for the diver even when there is low tank pressure. If the diver is tired he can derive the benefits of smooth breathing ability even when at ascent or deco stop. When the diver needs to go in for balanced piston in the first stage this regulator is the first choice for professionals and hard core divers. The balanced piston also has the capacity to work well for both cold and warm water environments too.

The first stage also has the advantages of the two pressure ports that are opposite to one another and they permit the individual positioning of the first stage that points both up and down. This feature is a boon for the diver as he/she can position the gauges to suit requirements both to the right and the left side in order to get better freedom of neck and head movements.

There are also multiple low pressure ports that render ultimate freedom when it comes to the arrangement of the low pressure hoses. There are also five high flow ports that function on a swiveling turret and they are able to provide about 360 degrees swivel of hoses. There are also high flow ports that also deliver about 15% of more air than the other traditional ports.

When it comes to the S600 stage there is better air balanced technology and the second stage also renders a balancing chamber have the second stage mechanism. This mechanism has the ability to offset slightly the force of the downstream air that tends to enter from the first stage. This feature of the regulator gives the diver lesser tensions in the spring and it also decreases the resistance to the inhalation to the minimum level. This results in giving smooth breathing mechanism to the diver in all conditions. The air valve of this regulator has balanced technology and it is predominant in the X and S second stages. Combined with the first stages they tend to give the best of performances. The regulator is one of the most dependable ones around and trusted by divers across the world.

The regulator is one that has carbon fiber along with technopolymer housing rendering the diver light weight water resistance for longer life and durability. The regulator is also endowed with an inhalation effort that is adjustable and this exclusive feature helps the diver to adjust to the breathing efforts with the aid of a knob that is big enough to control. This can be fine tuned to any type of diving conditions that the diver is in.

Scubapro MK25/S600 regulator also has the advantages of deploying a mouthpiece that is comfortable enough to give comfort to the diver to reduce fatigue of the jaw. It also does not cause gum irritation as it has been made and checked by dentists worldwide. The mouthpiece is one that lasts longer than other mouthpieces that are available as there is only a lesser effort that is involved to hold it in place comfortably. The mouthpiece is one that is adjustable and it also gives the diver lesser breathing efforts and more smooth breathing facility. Every single breath that is taken by the diver is effortless and comfortable to the diver. The air delivery is without flaws and with this regulator the diver gets comfort and durability without tensions of depth and water temperature. It is highly recommended by professional scuba divers and the cost of the regulator is very reasonable too. The diver tends to get exhausted less and it is considered to be one of the best regulators in the world that is banked by millions of scuba divers across the globe! The price for equipment is 514.95$ ( at the time of review ) at leisurepro.com

In addition I would like to share a video review from simplyscuba.com

This Dive regulator have excellent reviews from customers , here are some of them from leisurepro.com

By Dive Master Don:  Effortless Breathing
I use this regulator in a variety of diving environments, from deep saltwater, to cold freshwater. It breaths effortlessly at all depths and tank pressures and is compatible with any breathing gas.

By geriatric diver: Very good
I bought this because ScubaPro stopped making parts for any older Scubapro model reg.
I am glad that I was forced to change. This reg is like breathing above water. It has never free-flowed. It goes a long time between servicing, but I do not recommend this practice.
It is light and comfortable.

By Greg: Scubapro = The Best!!!
This makes breathing effortless down under!! Don’t hesitate, just buy it!! Am going to buy another one for my son as a Christmas gift!!

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One of the most common scuba diving equipments that the diver requires is the regulator or piston. One of the oldest and the most reliable ones in the market is the Scubapro regulator. The popular balanced and adjustable second stage version of the G250 is back and now it is in a better version with a new design. This piston comes now in a Vintage edition with loads of technical improvements. For those who have used the G250 for years the new G250V is the ultimate solution to their needs. The innovated MK25/G250V Regulator comes with the enhanced features of DIN/INT first stage configuration, balanced piston air flow, anti-freeze resistance, a new VIVA knob for convenient Venturi adjustments even if the diver is wearing thick gloves. The regulator also has a concept cover concept that gives the diver enhanced breathing performance by at least 50%. The makers of this the G250 have worked on this classic product to re-invent it to meet the demands of the modern world. The regulator has been enjoying positive reviews rendered by technical divers worldwide because of its high-end quality and unbeatable performance.

This piston is ideal for technical divers as it gives them unbeatable performance at the size of the G250. Cold water divers have given the verdict that this piston has better anti-freeze resistance. The MK 25 regulator renders unfailing performance and it carries its heritage of patented features that do not fail to disappoint. Manufactured by SCUBAPRO that is the leader of pistons for scuba diving the MK25 has a very consistent and stable performance and is ranked to be a superior regulator.

The regulator is superior because of its facility to render ultra stable pressure that result in a high delivery of air that makes it very punctual. This is perfect for a carefree dive that requires air-flow at any water temperature and instant air-flow. If you are a regular scuba diver you can rely on the benefits of the first stage piston that is reliable and has fewer requirements for maintenance. The piston has fewer parts that move because of a simple and effective mechanism and this is the reason why users rate this piston to be superior when it comes to the high rate of delivery of air in the first stage when controlled.

When it comes to the air balanced flow through the regulator the first stages of the air balanced pistons tend to deliver more air significantly to the next stage better than other first stage ones. The main problem with the others is that their performance is not affected by the tank pressure that changes. With the aid of a balanced piston, the use of light and more sensitive components of air cause ultra fast response to breathing and the immediate delivery of air that is required along with extra flow of air that is quite high in the case of low pressure ranges in tanks. This feature is very good for the tired diver as he/she gets a breathing regulator that is smooth especially at the ascent and the deco stop. The above balanced piston first stage is the first choice of many divers that are hard core scuba diving professionals as it has the potential to perform equally well in cold and warm water environments.

Divers also commend on another positive feature of the MK25 and that it the performance of its two high opposite high pressure ports that enhances the comfort of the diver. The presence of these two opposite high pressure ports permit the individual positioning of the first stage irrespective of the fact on whether it is pointing up or down. This feature is beneficial to the diver who makes an attempt to position the gauges on either the right or left and this in the process allows the diver to get enhanced freedom of head and neck movement.

Another positive feature of the Scubapro MK25/G250V regulator is that it allows the diver to adjust the piston externally to tackle immediate pressure. The regulator also is made of a brass body that is chrome plated and has very good resistance to corrosion that ensures durability.

The diver is also able to get ultimate freedom due to the presence of multiple low pressure ports in the regulator. The arrangement of the low pressure hoses in the MK25 also permits the scope of five high flow ports even when there is a swiveling turret and these hoses provides the diver with a 360 degrees swivel of hoses. There are also high flow ports that tend to deliver about 15% of additional air than the other conventional ports.  The MK25 is one that is best used in warm water and extreme depths. Divers are happy with its comfort and adjustability and they have found that the regulator had helped them to breathe without hassles during the whole dive. Most of the users of the regulator have added that they did not have to make extra efforts to breathe. Hard core divers and professionals recommend the use of this piston to everyone interested in scuba diving. Since the regulator is Nitrox compatible it has the advantages of being suited to the deep depths. The regulator successfully blows the air into the mouth of the diver and the presence of a metal barrel does not make the mouth dry either. There are many divers that have also commended on the looks of the regulator saying that it sports manly looks for the ideal scuba diver.

Regarded as a top piece of equipment for technical divers, there have been positive reviews of divers reaching 40m depth without any kind of breathing hassles. There are many divers that are also happy with the price and this is the reason why they have also rendered top ranks for the product as well. There are many divers that rate the piston as an excellent one. It is highly recommended not only because of its price but because of its features too. It is a value for money buy that does not let you down , the cheapest price for Scubapro MK25/G250V Regulator is 399.95$ at the time of review.

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Zeagle Express Tech Review

The item of gear that allows a diver to control their position in the water column, the buoyancy compensator is a crucial piece of dive gear. It not only allows us to control our position but also holds the tank. BC’s come in different configurations. These are generally divided into two classes. The jacket style; which generally has a bladder that wraps around the diver as it inflates and the back inflate; where the bladder is entirely on the back. Both essentially do the same thing. They allow the diver to control their position in the water column. The jacket style is the perhaps the most commonly seen in use by new divers. One of its characteristics that make it popular is that it tends to keep divers more upright and higher in the water when on the surface. The back inflate is believed to have a tendency to push a diver face forward on the surface. This is in fact a myth!

First of all the BC needs an air cell to inflate and deflate. It also needs a way to accomplish that. That way is via the power inflator. A BC power inflator is a device that is connected to the bladder by a corrugated hose. This hose generally is located on the left side and connects to the BC in the area of the shoulder. Some are connected in the center of the air cell. The power inflator is also connected to the tank by the regulators low pressure inflator hose. By depressing a button air is allowed to flow into the BC via a Schrader valve. Another button is used to control a valve that allows air to escape the BC. When venting or allowing the air to escape the BC the Inflator needs to be raised above the level of the connection to the BC or a trap – similar to that under your sink – is formed and the air cannot escape. Many BC’s however also have additional valves known as dump valves to allow air to be vented without using the power inflator. We all know that air will rise to the highest point underwater. When using the power inflator to vent some models require the diver to get nearly vertical in the water. Now as we have previously discussed – divers do not swim vertically! Our ideal position is horizontal.

When choosing a BC, one should not fall for the hype and gimmicks. One thing about gimmicks is that they are also known as failure points! Levers that add and allow air to be vented as opposed to standard inflators, drop down pockets, lots of D rings, and claims that these will make you a better diver should be ignored. The only thing that will make you a better diver is good training and diving regularly. I can take any BC that I can get on –regardless of size, style, or configuration- and within 10 minutes get horizontal and have full control over my buoyancy. This is the result of practice, experience, understanding the effects water has on me and my equipment, and proper weighting and trim. None of which is beyond the grasp of the average OW diver who wants to achieve this level of competence. A BC is a tool. As with any tool- simple is usually better

With this in mind, how do we choose a BC? First of all we should not look for the most expensive model. High price does not mean that one BC is better than another. In fact price has little to do with buying a quality BC. What matters is what the BC will do for the diver and how it will suit their needs. Earlier I noted that some believe that back inflate BC’s tend to push a diver forward in the water. This is a myth. Back mounted BC’s on a properly weighted diver DO NOT push a diver face forward into the water. This myth is perpetuated by divers and even instructors who simply do not understand them or know how to set them up. This myth is also perpetuated by dive shops that want to sell high priced BC’s. There are very expensive back inflate BC’s made by a number of companies. And if one has the money they can buy one. But they are not necessary for the new recreational diver and most times for the experienced diver as well.

What I look for in a BC is function. Looks are not very important and a lot of gadgets and doodads are nothing more than stuff that adds to the cost with no real benefit. I consider myself a minimalist diver. In that if I don’t really need it on the dive it stays in the bag or in the dive shop. Whether one chooses a jacket style, back inflate, hybrid, or modular system like a back plate and wing; simple is better. There is simply no need for a diver to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a BC. This is where the Zeagle Express Tech fits the bill on all counts. The Express Tech is a no frills, well constructed and well designed BC. The BC is based on the idea that less is more. The unit is lightweight due to the soft backpack and lack of unnecessary padding.

The Express Tech features two cam bands as seen above. These insure that the tank stays put when the straps have been properly tightened. The one shown is the BC I own myself and have added two weight pouches from XS Scuba. These allow me to add a few pounds to the BC to aid in trimming me out. By adding 2-3 lbs to each pouch depending on the exposure suit I’m wearing, I can set the BC up to mimic my steel Backplate from my Backplate and Wing set up. This aids in horizontal trim by placing the weight over my lungs where it needs to be. I have also added 4  D- Rings, and a replaced the standard buckle with a steel one from Piranha Dive Gear. The plastic one is not a cheap one. It is very heavy and my replacing it is simply a matter of personal choice, not function. I also use a plastic buckle on my weight belt and by having a steel one on the BC it helps to eliminate confusion if my buddy should need to dump my weights in an emergency. The Straps on the BC are not padded and neither is the soft backpack.

While it may look uncomfortable I assure you with just a t-shirt it is not. Add an exposure suit and you don’t even notice the lack of padding. There are two straps on the BC that are adjustable at the shoulder. The generous amount of webbing on the straps presents the user with one of the nest features of the BC. It is almost infinitely adjustable. I have had the BC on a young lady who was perhaps 98 lbs and a little under 5 feet tall. 20 minutes later I took the same BC and put it on her grandfather who was perhaps 170 lbs and 5 feet 9 inches tall. I then allowed her father who is 6 feet 2 and 225 lbs to try it on. This BC can fit nearly anyone! If you look at the backpack you will see numerous grommets for attaching accessories and a set of center holes. This BC can be used with lighter double cylinder setups such as aluminum 80’s or steel 72’s. The wing shown has 24lbs or 10.9 kilos of lift. There are optional wing sizes available for divers who would be using the BC in cold water and wearing a thicker suit that requires more lead. The lack of padding and soft back pack makes this the ideal travel BC. Deflated and carefully folded the BC will fit in a backpack and allow it to be taken as carryon luggage thereby avoiding excess baggage charges.

Another unique feature is the inflator. Zeagle has come up with way to not only inflate the BC but make it easier to rinse the inside of the BC. Simply unscrew the inflator from the corrugated hose as shown below.

Then hook a standard garden hose up to the end and run fresh water through the hose. The double dump valves on the bottom rear of the BC will allow the water and any salt or silt to flush out. Then simply replace the inflator, add a little air, and hang as you would any other BC. The BC is also available with a shorter inflator hose and plain elbow instead of the shoulder pull dump for those who want that feature. I had planned to go with this option but soon saw it as unnecessary. I have plain elbows on my Backplate and Wing setups but this is easy to get used to. The BC may also be used with the Zeagle integrated octo/inflator. Although in my opinion that just adds another big clunky thing on the end of the hose that seems to defeat the minimalist design of this BC.

Perhaps the best feature of this BC is the price. In the US the suggested retail is around $250 US for a quality BC. The added D-Rings and steel buckle added around $30 to the cost of the BC. The two weight pockets were around $10 each and for a grand total of $300 plus tax you can have a BC that will work in cold water and in the tropics. While I normally dive a Backplate and Wing on a great many dives the Zeagle Express Tech is my BC of choice for single tank diving. Whether in warm or cooler water the Zeagle Express Tech meets the challenge. For those who may be reading this that do not have a Zeagle dealer near them the company does allow internet sales. Just go on line and do a search for the BC. There is now a version they call a deluxe version that has padded straps, quick releases on the straps, and an optional weight system. For those that want these features they may be nice but can bring the cost of the BC to up over $400 and for someone looking to purchase a low cost BC, the additions defeat the purpose.  You can buy this scuba diving equipment clicking image below.

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Regulator Review:  HOG (Highly Optimized Gear) D1 Coldwater 1^st with Adjustable 2^nd

In 2007, a new line of equipment was introduced to the SCUBA world. Known as HOG along with its recreational sibling, Edge, this line was designed to give the tech diver and the recreational diver another choice in the world of scuba equipment, an opportunity to buy high quality, no nonsense gear at a reasonable price. The line was not designed to take over the entire dive market, but it is making steady in-roads to many areas. Founded by Chris Richardson of Georgia, this is their goal is in their own words:

“We have a single minded purpose, to offer excellent quality equipment, superlative service and affordable prices.”

This they have done. They continue to add to the product line and the same theme is carried over with every new item. I became a fan and user of HOG equipment in 2009 when they introduced the D1 regulator. This reg was introduced to the dive community at an unheard of price for a regulator of this quality with the features it has. At select retailers, it was offered at the incredible price of $150 US for both stages! I bought two of each stage.

Shown above, these units came without hoses. Why? Very simple – they were sold with the idea that the diver knew best which hose he or she needed. Tech divers have set ways in which they configure their gear and many times it is not with hose lengths that are the same as what usually comes from the manufacturer. They may indeed want a standard length recreational primary hose of 32- 36 inches (1 meter) if it is going to be used for single tank diving, but more likely it will be a five foot or seven foot hose (2 meters). If it is a longer hose, an octo that is bungeed under the chin is used. In that case, as opposed to a 40 inch (1.2 meter) hose that would be donated to the divers buddy, a 22 inch (approximately 600 centimeter) hose is used, as the primary would be donated in an out of air situation. The five foot or seven foot (2 meter) hose also allows the divers to exit tight spaces such as a shipwreck or cave single file, where side by side swimming is not possible. In addition, technical divers consider the Buoyancy Compensator they are using to determine the length of the LP inflator hose. It could be as short as 12 inches (approximately 325 centimeters) or as long as 18 inches (approximately 475 centimeters) depending on the BC which is most often a Backplate and Wing type. As for the HP hose, most tech divers use only an SPG attached to the hose. As such, there is no console with a computer or compass, so these are worn on the wrist. Instead of the 32 or 36 inch (1 meter) hose found on most recreational setups then, the diver typically uses a 24 inch (approximately 625 centimeter) length hose.

So what HOG/Edge did in order to keep costs down and not have extra hoses lying around is, they left it up to the diver to decide what hoses are needed. I bought my regulators to use on my double cylinders. As such, I already had the hoses needed and so my total outlay was $308 US for both regulators! The price has since gone up but there are still deals to be had. One dealer offers the doubles set up for $585 US including an SPG. Try to buy one top end regulator from one of the major brands at that price!

The HOG regulators are made for the diver who wants a solid performer with good looks and a solid feel. They are rugged, big, and very cool looking. The picture above of the first stage is properly exposed. The finish is“black chrome” that just looks great and stays that way. The finish is highly resistant to scratches and corrosion. The stage is available with a 5^th LP port on the bottom to aid in hose routing — I highly recommend this option! The D1 first stage comes in DIN but an adapter for DIN to Yoke could be used. In places where DIN connections are common, such as in Europe, this eliminates the need to convert the reg over to the DIN fitting.

Here is one of my first stages with the 5^th LP port used for the primary second stage. As you can see, the finish is beautiful and highly reflective! The second stage is also very well finished and oozes class and character; mine is shown below. As you can see, it has been used! The photo on the left shows the adjustment knob and the lever (red) that deflects air around the inside of the chamber to reduce the chance of free flow on the surface. I love this feature. It allows me to tune the reg to a minimal breathing effort and yet not worry about bumping the purge button on the surface or underwater, which as we divers all know, can start a free flow that wastes air and elicits laughter from our buddies!

This feature is also why I have two of these dive regulators. For divers who do technical dives it is important to have a bungeed octo that is just as good as the primary. We do not want a lower quality unit to be the one we have to go to in an emergency. The price of the HOG regulators means that we do not have to sacrifice performance in order to save money. Of course, if saving money is a priority, it is probably not a good idea to get into technical diving in the first place, because once you start doubling everything you would carry on a non-technical single tank dive it adds up very fast. HOG knows this as they themselves are technical divers and take this into consideration in product development and pricing. The types of dives these regulators are designed for mean that cutting corners in quality to save money can be a very bad, if not fatal, decision. With HOG, that sacrifice is unnecessary. We can indeed have our cake and eat it too!

I have removed the face plate for a very important reason: to show that it can be done. And no special tools are needed.  It is imperative for me to be able to do this with my second stages, for if a problem arises underwater I want to be able to do this even with heavy gloves on. There have been times when a piece of debris got caught in the second stage — I once saw a reg with a twig in it! Being able to take the second stage apart at depth can be a real plus when it is a simple fix and you do not want to or cannot surface to address it. The photo below shows the top view of the second stage with the cover removed.

As you can see, the same attention to detail is used on the inside of the reg. The demand lever is robust yet light and moves easily. The horizontal red bar is the deflector mechanism. The adjustment knob is purposely made large, making it easy to manipulate even with dry gloves or mitts. Everything about this unit is made with function and reliability in mind. There are no wasted spaces or extras that could end up being failure points. The reg shown is the one that is located on the right post of my dual tanks, hence the bolt snap tied near the second stage.

The regulator is environmentally sealed, meaning no water or contaminants can enter the first stage when it is on the tank and pressurized. The unit is also rated for cold water. This was an important feature for me as I dive in water as cold as 38 degrees F; I will be taking these regulators under the ice in 2011 when I assist with an ice diving class. The other feature that was very important to me was that the manufacturer allows sales of the service kits to divers. That’s correct – buy this reg and if you know how, you can get the kit to service it yourself.  No hassles, no arguments!

It is highly recommended that you take a service course but the fact is that if you have serviced a regulator before, you can service these. Just take your time and remember how everything came apart! Another option is to buy the kit, take it and the regulator to any competent technician, and have them do it. One more option is to simply send the regulator to the dealer you bought it from and allow them to do it. The dealers that currently carry the line of gear all have experienced techs to service them. Finally, you can always send the reg to HOG to let them service it. Whichever option you choose, it is important to have the reg serviced when it is needed.

As to how they perform, that is what you really want to know isn’t it? The short answer is they work great! I, as an instructor, have had the opportunity to dive dozens of different regulators, from inexpensive basic piston regulators to what would be considered very high end units (titanium bodies, balanced, over balanced, etc.). The HOG D1 cold with HOG second stage breathes as good as or better than regulators costing literally two or three times as much. I have had them in water from 38 degrees to 85 degrees and they work with no extra effort in breathing. As a result, these regulators are now my favorite. I own eight other regulators from Sherwood, Oceanic, ScubaPro, and Aqualung – all of these will eventually be replaced with HOG or Edge regulators. The fact that I can service them myself, they breathe excellent, look good, and are utterly reliable makes that an easy decision. There is any number of choices one could make when selecting a new regulator and for the most part, all of them will work to one degree or another, but today’s divers want value for their money. They don’t want to waste hard earned cash on something they may have to replace or will not be happy with a year or two from now. The regulators from HOG will last the diver many years. They will also allow you to take some of that hard earned money and spend it on actual diving! In this writer’s opinion, the HOG D1 Cold 1^st stage coupled with the adjustable HOG second is the best regulator for the money on the market today!

Jim Lapenta

SEI Diving Instructor #204

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The Evolution of Buoyancy Compensation (No Win, No Fee!)

I’ve written about buoyancy before, where I extolled the virtues of learning and mastering perfect neutral buoyancy. I am of the staunch opinion that well maintained buoyancy is the doorway to excellent diving. The issue with this is that our bodies (read: lungs) are incapable of adjusting our buoyancy sufficiently to allow us to be very positive on the surface and negative underwater when we are in SCUBA gear. The solution that divers have been using for the vast majority of diving’s history is to weight themselves down with lead (using a weight belt) and then use a flexible container that they can fill or empty of air to compensate for the lead. When the container is empty of air, the lead pulls the diver down. When the container is filled with a little air, the diver will sit neutral in the water. When the diver fully fills the container on the surface, he will remain floating.

Of course, the diver would be both tired out and hampered if he had to hold this container of air in his hands, so the container was given straps that allowed the diver to mount this compensator on his back and leave his hands free. This, obviously, evolved into what we now call the buoyancy compensator device, or BCD (sometimes referred to as just BC). At first the BCD was nothing more than a vest that went over the head (like an airplane life vest) and was then secured by passing a cord through the diver’s legs and fastening it down. This was a clever remedy for a difficult problem, though it wasn’t the end of the design process. Dive gear manufacturers realized that the BCD could become more than just an air filled bag that strapped onto your crotch (that’s what she said, boom boom!), it could become the spine onto which all the scuba gear would attach. The modern BCD is the base station for all your SCUBA, it is your organizer, your mounting device and it also compensates for your weight belt’s negative buoyancy (it’s like Batman’s utility belt!)

The BCDs of Yesteryear Were Much Less Effective, But The Divers Were Much More Cool!

Styles

The BCD, having been around for so much of scuba diving’s history, has had plenty of opportunity to evolve into different sub-classes to suit the particular needs of many applications and diver preferences. Although there are many types of BCD, there are three broad categories that encompass most models. There are plenty of crossovers and half-breeds so this list isn’t a definitive breakdown of BCD classes.

Recreational Wing

This is the most common BCD on the market today. The reason I have used the differentiating tag of “recreational” is because there are two types of “wing” BCD, this the the common type. The common BCD has a large bladder of air (usually formed into two long lungs that run parallel to the tank) that flares out (more or less) at the sides to form something like a pair of balloon wings. Attached onto this inflated backpack is a pair of shoulder straps and a large waist belt. This BCD offers the best combination of stability, ease of release (for emergency situations) and storage solutions of all the styles of BCD, this is what has made it so popular.

The Standard BCD Format Is An All-Rounder, The Best BCD For The Average Diver.

Jacket

This is not a new technology, but it actually outperforms the recreation wing in terms of comfort and air distribution because the bladder is not just confined to the back of the BCD. The jacket’s bladder runs down the shoulders and into the straps themselves which gives a better distribution of buoyancy and is (arguably) more comfortable. In all other aspects the jacket BCD looks much like that of a recreational wing type BCD – it has pockets and hoops galore.

The issue with the jacket is there is trade off between comfort and safety which many divers cannot make. This compromise comes from the fact that a jacket’s straps cannot be released entirely in an emergency. The diver must slide out of them the same way one might doff a rucksack. Most other BCDs have the ability to completely detach all the straps, leaving you entirely disentangled from the BCD, should you need to get out of it easily or quickly in an emergency (most rescue training works on the basis that your BCD had quick release straps).

The Jacket BCD Delivers Great Buoyancy But Poor Release Options In An Emergency

Tec Wing

The divers that go Tec diving have a very different set of requirements from their BCDs. For one thing they want the ability to modify it themselves, they don’t want a pre-configured BCD. The Tec wing BCDs are much more simple looking, and can be bought as a separate back plate, straps and bladder so they can mix and match the equipment to their exact needs. Their bladders are usually much larger, round UFO-shaped balloons. They need the extra volume in their bladders because they tend to dive with a huge amount of gear and tanks (at least two of every item and up to eight tanks!). They also need them to be large and flat to give them stability with all this gear, a normal recreational BCD would leave the diver spinning and tilting!

The Tec BCD Allows For Great Customisation, But Is Too Serious For The Lay Recreational Diver.

The back plates on a Tec BCD are designed to accommodate an array of tank sizes and can be fitted with racks of up to four tanks. The Tec diver can also use compression straps that are fitted all around the BCD to pull the bladder into the shape they desire. A wreck diver needs to be able to turn fluidly, and a big wide bladder would slow his turns and make him less agile, so he’d probably dive with a skinnier bladder shape than a photographer who requires stable diving above anything else.

The Tec BCD usually doesn’t have much in the way of storage on it (though it can be modified to have more) so they often wear a vest with pockets on it and attach pockets to their drysuits.

There has been a trend to create semi-Tec BCDs that have the same size, shape and look as a Tec BCD but they are tamer and pre-built into one unit. These help the bolster the current expansion into the amateur Tec diving (basic nitrox use and simple two-tank diving).

Cross-Breed BCDs That Cater For The Half-Way Divers That Want Tec Performance And Rec Simplicity.

Bladders

I’ve mentioned bladders quite a bit so far which might have left a few of you thinking about the toilet more than the sea. The bladder is the part inside the BCD that actually holds the air. It might be part of the fabric of the BCD, called a single-bladder, or it might be a separate balloon inside the BCDs shell, called a double-bladder.

On a single-bladder BCD the material is usually a tight nylon weave with an impermeable coating on the inside (polyurethane or some other plastic). This system works well and generally will survive most abuse. However it can be prone to leaking at the seams and welds because that is where the BCD takes the most strain. It cannot really be repaired (beyond tiny leaks) because the structural integrity is compromised if the bladder bursts. Because there is less material and the manufacturing is simple, this tends to be the format that recreational BCDs take to make them more affordable and because the lay recreational diver doesn’t normally require peak performance from their BCD.

The double bladder is much more pricey because it requires a complex manufacturing process. It does reward this extra expenditure by offering a more robust BCD (less likely to puncture) and a BCD that can be repaired. By housing the air in a separate bladder it  allows the designers to use different materials for the outer shell which offers the Tec diver even more options, like trading lightness for strength (something a Tec diver likes very much!).

Auto Inflater

The BCD, being an air-filled bag, requires both filling and emptying of air. This could be a problem if you had to do this orally (imagine blowing up a balloon and emptying thirty times in an hour!) so the clever guys at the dive gear factories made a system that allows air to blast from your tank into the BCD on demand. This makes buoyancy compensation as easy as pressing the button in an elevator. They even made it analogue so you could put in small amounts of air for fine-tuning or big blasts of air for fully inflating the BCD in a hurry on the surface.

The auto inflator comes in a range of sizes and shapes (some even have a regulator built into them) but ultimately it is just a small valve that you open by pressing a button with your thumb and, when you release it the spring shuts the gate which stops the flow of air. Some of these buttons can be really stiff so make sure you test the feel of the button before buying a BCD.

Auto Inflators Come In All Shapes And Sizes, Make Sure Your One Fits Your Hand And Your Strength.

Features To Look For When Choosing Your BCD

Because the BCD is the keystone of your diving rig it is not enough for it just to be the shape you need, but you will also require it to have a number of other features so you can fully make it your own setup:

• Pockets – This is where, if you’re like me, you’ll house everything plus the kitchen skin (and a tool kit to fix the sink should it spring a leak…underwater…). A good BCD will have many pockets in many areas which will allow you to configure things just how you like it. The pockets must also close securely but be wide when you open them. I like to have a zip closing on mine because you can’t always tell if a Velcro pocket is fully shut (and how gutted would you be if you lost your £200 torch because of a loose piece of Velcro!).
• Rings and Hoops – Another storage requirement for me is a ton of hoops and rings that should be dotted about the BCD in any place the designer can fit one. The more rings you have the better you can arrange your gear. I like to have my SMB, compass and knife on my rings. I’ll also use them to hang my teaching slate off for a short while, and attach my octo to my chest. Lots of hoops means lots of configuration options.
• Good Tank Band – This is a pet peeve of mine, I hate when a BCD has a poor strap design. Ultimately a strap is a strap, there is little to it. But when a strap takes super manpower to tighten it enough to hold the tank in place, it’s just bad design.
  

  If Your BCD Has A Poor Tank Band Then You Can Buy Replacements From Other Manufacturers So You Get Excellent Performance.

• Double Tank Mount – Talking of tanks, some divers like to (or need to) take two tanks on a dive. In this case before buying a BCD you should check what tank configurations it can accept (most mid-range and top-spec recreational BCDs can take two tanks given the appropriate modification).
• Knife Holder – This is a little feature, but I like it. On my BCD I have an unsightly knife sheath tie-wrapped onto the outside of it which sticks out a lot and can be a hassle when putting my BCD on in a busy boat room. An integrated knife holder is a nice touch that keeps your profile smooth. Aim to keep your BCD sleek, because loose or dangly gear will catch on things and cause drag while swimming – avoid looking like a Christmas tree!
  

  An Integrated Knife Holder Looks Great, But Check The Knife Because Sometimes The Blades Are Cheap.

• Integrated Weights – This is a very big deal on the BCD market and has made a big difference to the way buoyancy is adjusted. With integrated weights you don’t take a weight belt (which is great because they are a pain to make up and they are uncomfortable), instead you put the lead into two removable pockets that slip into your BCD. These pockets are quick release so you can dump them just as easily as you can dump a weight belt. They are much more comfortable although they make your BCD much heavier which could be an issue if you struggle to carry a BCD and tank as it is. Some BCDs with integrated weight systems also include trim pockets at the rear which allow the diver to configure his weights to his exact specification.
• Convenient Dump Valves – All BCDs have dump valves these days, but not all of them are easy to operate which is their whole purpose in life – to be easily accessible ways of rapidly emptying your BCD! On some BCDs the rear dump valve toggle is on the front of the BCD, which I hate. I much prefer to reach to the rear intuitively in an emergency, rather than trying to remember where my toggle is! As an instructor I also approve of a dump valve being incorporated into the low pressure inflator hose (pull the hose downward and the air will dump) because if a student bolts for the surface then it is easier to reach for a long hose than a small toggle.

BCD Tips

BCDs are often poorly introduced to new divers, and sometimes even experienced divers haven’t fully come to grips with this important piece of kit. Here’s a few tips and tricks that help me ensure my BCD performs as it should.

Use Your Cummerbund!

Pardon me? Use my what? The cummerbund is the large, usually Velcro, strap that you pass around your waist, it is then further secured by a large buckle. This is, surprisingly, the most important strap on your BCD because it is what hugs the BCD to the body when submerged. On land the shoulder straps reign king, but underwater it is vital you have a tight fitting cummerbund. It is wise to refit your cummerbund once you have entered the water because when you are wet it will feel more loose, and it’s imperative that you keep that strap tight, unless you enjoy your BCD riding up and down your back!

This tightening strategy goes for all your straps. Ensure that just before you go down, you further tighten every buckle. The closer the BCD is to your body, the more natural you will feel as you swim and the better your buoyancy will be.

Tie Wrap Everything!

This is possibly a slight exaggeration, you shouldn’t tie wrap everything, but it is strongly advised that you carry five or six wraps of different sizes with you in your BCD pocket because they are amazingly useful. They can be used to attach gear to your BCD (knifes, compass, etc), they can be used to keep teaching slates together (clip a bras hook onto the tie wrap and you can hang them from your BCD ring while doing skills) and they can be a quick fix (or long term one) if a strap breaks or a hoop gives out. They are water resistant, nearly indestructible and very portable, have them with you all the time!

Inevitably You Will Need To Tie Wrap Something, Carry Them With You At All Times!

Minimise The Movement Of Gear

If you value your gear and your BCD then you will pay specific attention to this point. If you have big pockets then you will no doubt find that gear rattles around in there. If you put the wrong combination of items in together (nice torch and reel with heavy brass clip) then you may end up with tatty or broken gear quicker than you’d like. It is also worth mentioning to those of you that carry extra weight for students or novice divers that lead blocks bouncing around in a pocket are a shortcut to a burst pocket.

The solution is to organise your gear so that it doesn’t rattle (put a squashy SMB with your torch to keep it from moving) or hang it on the BCD rings. Organising you BCD properly has many advantages and only takes half an hour of playing when you get it home from the dive store.

Don’t Overweight

A heavily overweighted diver will require more air in their BCD to attain neutral buoyancy. This means their BCD is inflated into a big size which will cause drag in the water (a swimmers arch nemesis) and will restrict their movement, not to mention what it would do to their buoyancy itself! A smart diver aims to have very little air in their BCD when they are neutral, this will make them more efficient which saves air and energy – both of which are high-value resources when diving.

Service, Service, Service!

Everyone knows they need to service their regulator every six months (that doesn’t mean they’ll do it though) but not everyone thinks to service their BCD. A BCD takes serious wear and tear, yet we rarely do much more than rinse it after a dive. A smart diver will flush his whole BCD out with fresh, clean water (you can add a little disinfectant too) after every couple of dives (or before he puts it away in the shed) by unscrewing the dump valve and filling the BCD entirely with water then flushing it out again. This clears it of salt and mould which accumulates over time.

You should also pay attention to the low pressure inflator hose because they have a tendency to leak. If they do then it’s time to change the O-rings in the auto inflator. It’s a simple job but many divers will ignore the bubbles until the button is almost useless. Don’t be a lazy diver, look after your gear!

Final Thoughts

Your BCD is the helm of your SCUBA setup, it is where you steer your small submarine from. As such it should be fitted to you, in size, shape, style, function and features. Don’t be afraid to modify your BCD to your own requirements, the more you make it fit you the more prepared you’ll feel when your twenty metres deep. Learn it’s features, adjust straps, move gear from a pocket to a hoop to a strap and practice donning it and doffing it using the quick releases. If you know your BCD, then you know your gear.

Do you have a favorite BCD style? What do you look for in a BCD? Is there any modification or feature that you just couldn’t live without? If so, please share with us and leave a comment using the section below.

Happy (buoyant) Bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell

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Masks: Windows Into Another (damp) World!

Divers dive for different reasons, but ultimately everybody from the lay snorkeler through to the hardcore tec diver is in the water for one thing: to experience the aquatic environment. Some people want to explore the wrecks of great vessels from our past, whereas others enjoy looking at shallow coral reefs but in both cases they are enjoying new sensations. These sensation cannot be experienced naturally being as we are land animals, so we rely on equipment to mitigate our underwater adventures. The most basic piece of equipment a water enthusiast can own is a pair of goggles or a mask to allow them to see what is going on under the surface. Indeed a lucky individual with a mask and no other equipment might spot a whale shark off the bow of the boat and jump in, leaving the divers scrambling about changing tanks and grabbing weight belts – sometimes a mask is all you need, everything else is just there to make the experience last longer, or to get you there quicker.

The only Way We Can Really Appreciate The Sea's Beauty Is Through The Lens Of A Mask...

What I Look For In a Mask

This is one of those situations where the only way you can really tell what mask is right for you is by borrowing a friend’s mask and trying it out. So this is just about what features make my diving experience more pleasurable, either when I’ve got two thousand pounds worth of gear on my body, or when I’m just in shorts and fins – both situations need the same thing: to see!

My perfect mask has a few specific features that I find are either pleasantly surprising or absolutely necessary:

• Single Lens – This is a real opinion splitter in the dive community but I have solidly sided with the single lens camp despite the fact that a single lens mask tends to have a larger internal volume which requires extra nasal expulsions to clear. I chose a single lens design, rather than a mask with two independent lenses is because I find the extra glass in a single lets in more light which reduces the feeling of being detached from the environment – I find the less I can see the mask frame, the more natural the experience feels.
• Soft Skirt – This might sound like I’m being wimpy and choosing something that feels soft against my sensitive skin…but I assure you it’s not (not entirely anyway!). The softer the silicone skirt the more it will mould to the contours of your face, and thus becomes more watertight. The negative aspect of choosing an easy to mould silicone is that it will be much less resistant to tearing and loosing chunks when a piece of gear bashes against it. It’s a price I’m willing to pay to ensure all my air isn’t wasted on clearing my mask!
• Transparent Skirt – This is another one that may call my manliness into question…why should I care about the colour or design of my mask? Well, I find that a clear and transparent side skirt lets in a considerable amount of extra light which I find helps to fend off the tunnel vision that I often get with opaque black silicone masks. It can also allow your peripheral vision to function to an extent – you can sometimes make out the shape of your dive buddy out the corner of your eye which can be helpful if you’ve got students to look after!
• Wide and Deep Viewing Angle – This is an obvious choice, some might argue that it’s not really a preference when all masks strive for the same thing. The reason I included it on the list is because a large proportion of mask manufacturers concentrate on providing a wide field of vision, but not nearly enough of them go wide andlow. It’s obvious you need to see what’s next to you, but it’s also very useful to have an open vista of what’s below you. Without adequate bottom view it makes it a strain to properly look at your gauges, to look into your BCD pockets and to ensure that when you sit on your knees with a student you don’t drop them, or yourself, onto a stonefish or stingray!
  

  Some Mask Are Wide, But Not Tall - I Want Both!

• Frameless – This is a new one for me, up until my most recent mask I always used framed masks because I didn’t know any different. Now I’ve gone frameless, I’m unlikely to return to framed units. The mask is so much lighter on your face without the frame, and it packs up much more compactly being as everything except the glass is flexible. Whether it’s as durable as a framed mask, time will tell – but it’s had some serious abuse at my hands for around six months and it’s still in good shape.
• Neoprene Strap – This isn’t so much a feature of a mask, as an add-on that I wouldn’t ever give up. All it is is an oval of neoprene that has (usually) two Velcro straps that fit into your existing buckles. This replacement strap is much easier to adjust and is much more comfortable once you’ve adjusted it. The neoprene is stretchy, but won’t pull out your hair.

My Personal Choice: The Sherwood Scuba Rona

The two items of dive gear that split opinion the most are masks and fins. This is because they directly interact with our bodies, and being as everyone’s body is distinct and unique – it makes the design of universal gear tricky. That’s why the Sherwood Rona has everything I want in a mask and it fits me perfectly, yet several of my good friends have tried it and had constant leaks. It is a personal choice that, as I said before, can only be validated by trying gear on. If I wasn’t in a dive school I’d even consider joining a diving club purely so I could check out the other divers’ gear! But then, I’m a gear junkie…

Sherwood Scuba Rona - Close to, But Not Quite, My Perfect Mask...

Pros:

• Light Weight – The Rona is really comfortable to wear, primarily because it is very lightweight. It doesn’t pull down on your face, nor does it wobble when you turn your head rapidly. Because it’s lightweight, you don’t need your strap to be tight, which makes it even more pleasant to wear.
• Soft Skirt – This mask has the softest, most featherlike skirt material I’ve ever felt. It feels almost like a cloth, but is obviously much more water resistant.
• Large View Angle – The lens on this face mask is enormous! It gives a very wide and tall  viewing angle with extra dips on the bottom of the lens to help you look at your waist area. It’s not the widest lens ever made, but it’s wider than I’m used to.
• Low Volume Airspace – This is the magic part – not only is the mask a single lens and  offers a very wide view angle, but it has a tiny air volume. They manage this by positioning the lens close to the face, which also helps the feeling of immersion into the environment.
• Frameless – As I said above, this changed my mind about masks forever. It makes the mask look much less bulky, it reduces the weight dramatically and it squashes into a pocket with ease (which would make it ideal for tec divers who normally carry a spare mask). It also seems to make it less likely to crack, because the glass is protected by shock-absorbent silicone rather than rigid plastic, which means when you drop it just bounces – no cracked frames.
• Price – This was a real surprise to me, because I used the mask before I saw a price tag and initially thought it was an expensive, high-end affair. It turns out that it’s really very reasonably priced and so it’s excellent value for your hard earned dollar!

Cons

• Ugly – Alas, the Rona doesn’t fit my perfect mask description in its entirety – it has some flaws. One of my main concerns is that it’s really ugly! It’s quite a handsome and trendy looking piece of gear when it’s sitting on the shelf, but once you put it on it looks ridiculous – I’m yet to meet a man or woman who doesn’t look like an alien with it on! Luckily this isn’t really an issue for me being as I think scuba chic is a bit girly, I like my gear functional, safe and reliable – pretty comes in way down the list!
• Semi-Opaque Skirt – This is only a slight problem with the mask as it does offer a translucent skirt which does let some light in, but it has a frosted effect which makes it impossible to see through. There is also a black version which looks better but is completely opaque.
• Strap Is Silicone – Another minor concern, and something I had to remediate before use. The default strap is a standard issue silicone band which is fine for irregular use, but I much prefer my Velcro-neoprene solution for day-to-day diving.
• Possible Durability Issues – Although I said above that the mask was surprisingly robust, I do have issues with the integrity of the skirt after say six months in a wardrobe or shed. I do have a couple of little nicks in the material, but nothing that affects its performance. So this is a watch-and-see issue.

Final Thoughts

Masks are a personal item, just like glasses are on land. They both help you to see, they are both made in many shapes and colours and they both suit people differently. One pair of glasses may look sexy on one girl and dull on another, the same goes for masks (without the sexy part). All I can say is that I love my mask and hope, for your sake, that it fits you so you can enjoy it as much as I do!

Do you own a Rona, and if so what are your thoughts on it’s design and function? Do you prefer frameless masks? Single lens or double? Please share your thoughts in the comment section below.

Happy (visible) bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell.

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Exposure Protection

I love being a dive instructor, I love diving even more, and I absolutely adore diving in tropical water! Diving in a sea with an average temperature of around thirty-one degrees Celsius is the perfect way to enjoy an undersea safari! In Thailand, where I’m based, the water temperature doesn’t even change with depth, I can sit at thirty meters and the water feels just as warm as it does on the surface. It’s a wonderful experience, and yet, sometimes I get cold. This might seem a little strange to those who have had little experience being immersed in water for a long time, but if you stay in the water for long enough and move very little then it almost doesn’t matter what temperature it is, you’ll get chilly. Now, most people will keep moving when they are in the sea and this is more than sufficient to keep them warm in my neck of the woods. However if you are an instructor and you’re with an Open Water student who simply can’t manage to clear their mask, or struggles to complete a fin pivot then you could be sitting motionless for thirty minutes or more! If you’re only in swim shorts then you will begin to see goose bumps after half an hour and will be shivering in another fifteen minutes, and I don’t get cold easily!

If This Young Lady Doesn't Keep Moving She's Going To Get Awfully Chilly!

If you aren’t lucky enough to be diving in tropical water (but are still in a temperate or Mediterranean climate – water temperature twenty-eight to eighteen degrees) then you can slash the time above to a few minutes of inactivity causing serious shivering. As soon as you get to a sea temperature of about ten degrees then you will be lucky if you can reach more than a minute before you get seriously chilled.

Obviously if you are physically active in the sea then you can handle much lower temperatures for longer, but sometimes it’s simply not practical to keep moving, for instance drift divers will often remain motionless for nearly the whole dive with the exception of the odd kick. The other, much smarter, solution is to wear some form of exposure protection that can insulate you from the extremely conductive water (water conducts heat away from your body between twenty and twenty-five times faster than air does, which means even in thirty degree water your body has to try to keep your temperature seven degrees hotter while the water tries to quickly absorb it).

You have a few options for insulation, but the most popular option is the wetsuit.

How a Wetsuit Works

The reason a wetsuit is called a wetsuit is because, unlike a drysuit which has watertight seals at all the openings, a wetsuit allows water to leak in. This is not an intentional feature, it is simply a defining difference from a drysuit. The other major difference between a wetsuit and a drysuit is that a dry suit uses dry undergarments as well as the gas that inflates the suit to insulate them from the super conductive water, whereas wetsuits rely on the insulating properties of neoprene.

The objective that every wetsuit maker works toward is to restrict the flow of water within the suit (to prevent cold water from touching the skin and drawing heat away) and to ensure that the suit is highly insulated (to reduce the conduction of heat through the suit material). When these goals are achieved (or nearly achieved) then the wearer is highly protected from the elements.

There is a common misconception that suggests that a wetsuit works because it allows a small amount of water inside the suit and traps it in place. This trapped water then becomes warm from body heat and acts like an insulator. Although water does enter the suit and become warm, it is simply not true to say that this is what keeps the wearer protected from the cold. Water is a terrible insulator and all efforts must be made to reduce the flow of water in a suit (which is why wetsuits are so tight, and why you should ensure the suit isn’t too big for you). The insulation is performed by the suit material, not the water.

What Is a Wetsuit Made From?

A wetsuit, like a drysuit, also utilises gas as an insulator although it does so in a very different manner. Neoprene is used almost solely in wetsuit construction because it is waterproof, light, flexible, hard wearing, soft and has high thermal retention properties. The reason it is so warm is because it has closed-cell bubbles injected into it during the moulding process. These closed-cell bubbles are individual minuscule pockets of gas (usually nitrogen – a very stable and insulating gas) which retard the conduction of heat. The reason the suit is not water absorbent like a sponge is because the bubbles are all individual and closed, unlike a sponge where the bubbles are open. The neoprene can vary in thickness from two-and-a-half millimetres right up to around eight millimetres, any thicker than that and the suit becomes too inflexible and bulky which is why people use drysuits as the next step up on thermal protection.

Usually the suit has sewn or glued edges to prevent fraying, these also help to reduce water flow in the suit.

Wetsuit Weaknesses

There are some things to consider when wearing a gas-injected neoprene suit.

Buoyancy

Wetsuits, being constructed from a gas-injected material, are very positively buoyant. This means the wearer must take extra weight with them in order to attain neutral buoyancy. This isn’t much of an issue if you sink like a stone anyway, you might be lucky and only need a kilo or so, but if you are already a buoyant person, and big (a big guy needs a big suit, which means more neoprene, which means more buoyancy) then you may end up with ten kilos on your belt or more! This isn’t a problem as such, but it’s a pain having to make up that size of belt, carrying it is unpleasant and wearing it can be quite uncomfortable.

This Dog Hates Wearing A Weight Belt, But She Just Can't Dive Without One...

There is another buoyancy related issue at stake here too, and that is the fact that as a flexible container filled with gas is taken down underwater, it compresses. The bubbles inside the suit are no different and as you go deep, they get smaller. This effectively reduces both the insulating property of the suit, and it alters the buoyancy of the suit. These can both be problems when you plan your dive because you need to consider what insulation you will need (bear in mind that it is usually colder at deep depths than at the surface) and what weighting you require (as well as your suit changing buoyancy through the dive, your tanks will empty which changes your weight too!). An experienced diver will manage to find a good balance for temperature and he can easily compensate for a few kilos of weight change throughout the dive, but it makes life just a little more complicated!

Flexibility

Because you are wearing a big, elasticated, bubble-inflated suit you will find that your ability to manoeuvre your joints and limbs will be reduced slightly, especially when you get to seven millimetre thickness! The neoprene is stretchy and can compress, which does allow reasonably free movement, but there are high use joints (knee and elbow) that can be hampered by the constriction of the suit. The way wetsuit designers have overcome this is by either reducing the thickness of the suit at those sections, or by using chemically softened neoprene on those high use areas. Some suits have actually had their joints moulded into bends, to facilitate the movement of your legs and arms. I have also seen slashes in the neoprene to allow for easier bending motions.

All of these techniques help the diver move when he’s in his suit, though I have my concerns over what impact these concessions have on the durability of the suit.

Longevity

Talking of durability, it is important to mention that, unlike a regulator, a suit has a certain shelf life. Most long term divers will change their suits about every five years or so, though professional divers can get through a suit in less than two (or in my case ten months!). This isn’t a massive worry because suits aren’t that expensive as far as dive gear goes, but it can be a pain when you’re in that halfway point where the suit is getting worn out, leaking, not insulating as it should but it’s still got a few more months of diving left in it – this leaves you with a sub-par suit for a few months!

Suits fall prey to sun damage, oil contamination, rips, abrasion (especially on the knees and spine) and broken zips or seals. There is little you can do to stop the inevitable wear and tear apart from clean it regularly, avoid leaving it in the sun to dry and avoid sharp or rough objects.

Styles of Wetsuit

Wetsuits, being moulded from a flexible material, can be made into any shape or size the designer likes. Each shape has its own functions and features, and if you travel for your diving you will probably require more than one shape. There are thee styles that are predominant on the market, though they all aim to do the same thing – keep you warm in different conditions.

Shortie

The shortie (my preferred wetsuit of choice, being a tropical dude) is the equivalent of a tight-fitting pair of shorts with a t-shirt stitched on, made out of neoprene (sounds wild huh?). The suit will have a zipper on the back or the front (though the current trend is to have it at the back so that the tank helps to slow the flow of water through the zipper). This short suit has some benefits and a few negative points that go further than the temperature rating.

First off, a shortie is considerably easier to put on and take off. The leg and arm holes are wider (because they are designed to fit round a thigh, not an ankle), and there is less material to wriggle through. The shortie is also much easier to pack because there is much less material than in a long suit. However the shortie doesn’t offer much in the way of abrasion protection or knee pads for kneeling. This is a concern when diving in water that you know is infested with spiky sea urchins and stone fish, especially when you (like me) spend a lot of time kneeling on the bottom doing skills with students. Shorties are also usually poor at restricting the flow of water in the suit (because of those big holes again!). This is usually no big deal (you don’t wear a shortie in cold water) but if you are beginning to feel a little chilly towards the end of the dive and your suit takes a big gulp of fresh, cold sea water and swills it around your torso then it’s fair to say you may choose to mutter an expletive or two!

A Shortie Is Rarely Thicker Than Five Millimetres, And In This Case Is Only Three Millimetres Thick

Farmer John and Jacket

The farmer John suit is nothing more than a shortie with a set of long legs on the bottom. Often the short t-shirt style sleeves are chopped off too and you are left with something resembling a vest’s straps (the whole outfit looks like a pair of neoprene long johns..sexy!). The farmer John is normally married up with a neoprene jacket that has long sleeves and is designed to be worn over the top of the vest-trouser ensemble. Once they have been combined you will find that the suit is very warm because not only are your limbs fully protected, but you have a double layer of neoprene covering your torso (which requires the most thermal protection). If you find that the double covering is too much for your next dive (it’s common for a diver to misjudge the temperature on the first dive and then modify his exposure protection to suit his second dive), then the you can simply take the jacket off and go down with the long johns on.

I only have a few niggling issues with the farmer John setup; for one thing there is a lot of bulk carrying this much neoprene around (think of a double XL, seven millimetre suit – that’s a lot of material!). You also need to remember to bring both parts of the suit with you, which might be a little difficult if you’re as scatterbrained as I am! There might also be a problem for some divers with the restrictive nature of this much neoprene around your body, though this is being addressed in modern suits. To give it a final stab, I think it looks ridiculous…like a farmer at a fetish party!

Extremely Practical, Comfortable And... Ugly!

Long Suit

This is the most common format for wetsuits for a number of reasons, but the most important reason for its popularity is that it is a very warm, very sleek form of exposure protection. The long suit is a one-piece body stocking made from neoprene. You get into it the same way as you’d get into a shortie i.e. By using a back-zipper, the difference being that it takes about double the time to get into it!

The long suit provides the most water restriction of all the suits purely because there are only five points of entry into the suit (the farmer John sometimes leaks under the jacket, and the shortie leaks everywhere!). The modern long suit is more accurately described as semi-dry because of the fact that the diver will only get damp, not wet. This means that if you pee in your suit then there is almost no way to flush it out…just a thought for all those trigger-happy suit-sprayers!

If You Have To Get A T-Shirt Made To Back Your Story Up, I Don't Believe You!

The long suit provides great abrasion resistance, especially with the various thick pads and sections that are being incorporated into the modern suit. The diver in a long suit may find that his movement is a little restricted, but it is a mild feeling and one that passes with use. A final, added benefit of the long suit is that it can be worn on the boat or shore to keep you warm before the the dive, though if you wear it afterwards then it may contribute to evaporative cooling (you get cold because the water cools you down, dry things heat you better than wet things).

Super Space-Age Long Suit makes Normal People Look Like Robots...

Common Features

There are a full range of new and interesting things being done with wetsuit design, some of them are old technology, others are at the cutting edge of design and chemical manipulation. Here is a short rundown of common features and accessories for the modern wetsuit:

• Hoods – Even a long suit can’t protect all your body because ultimately you need your face exposed to see and to breathe, but you can wear a hood to cover the rest of your head (the head looses a lot of heat, so it’s important to cover it up in very cold water. Most hoods come in the same thicknesses as the suits, so you can match a seven millimetre suit with a seven millimetre hood. Some suits come with hoods attached which provides an extra seal around the neck and slows water flow substantially.
  

  To Further Complete The Robot Assassin From The Future Look, Get A Hood!

• Gloves and Boots – The other two parts of your body that are left exposed in a long suit are your hands and feet. These areas are important because, you need to be dexterous with your hands to perform delicate actions underwater (operate computers, open zips etc.) or, in your feet’s case, they need to be well cushioned to prevent blisters from fins. If they are cold or cut they cannot do this, but if they are too wrapped up in thick neoprene then they can’t function either. Take the thickness you need for the water temperature, don’t just use one pair for all climates.
• Skin-Tight Seals – This is a new approach to the old method of using zips to close the openings on a suit. With new and super stretchy materials, designers have managed to create cuffs that form to your wrist, neck and ankle which let in almost no water. They can be a little tough to fit through though.
• Semi-Dry Zippers – The large zipper on the back of a suit can be the cause for a fair quantity of water entering the suit. The new zippers that are appearing on suits today have neoprene and plastic flaps that cover them and the zips themselves are much tighter to prevent water from flushing through. They are nearly dry zippers.
• Linings – Many suits have different linings in them to either aid the donning and doffing of the suit, to keep the wearer warmer or to simply feel more comfortable. Designers use Lycra, plush linings and other soft materials to achieve this.
• Torso Panels – As I said before in the farmer John section, the torso is the primary section of the body to keep warm as this is where your vital organs are kept. Most new, top-end suits are being manufactured with a chest panel made from a different, more slippery material which is more thermally insular and also helps water to run off to prevent evaporative cooling on the surface after the dive.
• Knee, Elbow and Spine Pads – Modern suits are beginning to look more and more like futuristic body armour because of the addition of various tough pads on the knees, elbows and spine. The knees and elbows are obvious additions, it reduces the chances of getting a weak spot on the suit from too much kneeling down. The spine pad is designed to bare the brunt of the abrasion from tanks, BCDs and weigh belts that inevitably occurs, it is also more comfortable for the wearer.
• Tailored – This is not a new thing for wetsuits, but it is certainly a desirable feature. It has become relatively cheap to have a wetsuit custom made for your body which ensures a comfortable fit and a tight seal. You can also have pockets sewn onto the suit for added practicality.

Final Thoughts

Wetsuits are a strange item of dive gear because they are both simple and amazingly complex at the same time. A good suit is something you put on without thinking, yet the thought that has been put into it is quite astonishing. If you pay attention to getting the right suit for the conditions then you will certainly reap the benefits of a warmer and safer dive!. If you’ve decided to buy a new wetsuit , just click on banner and choose the one which you like.

Have you just bought a cool (or warm) new suit? What features does your suit have that you couldn’t live without? Who, in your opinion, is the best suit manufacturer? What style of suit do you use for your location? Please share your thoughts with us by using the comment section below!

Happy (cosy) bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell

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