New camera and housing for the underwater shooting «Sea & Sea DX-2G»  released

Company «Sea & Sea» has released its new compact digital camera, the next generation «DX-2G».

Key Features

* Matrix – 12.1 Mpx;
* 3-fold optical enlarger 24-72 mm;
* LCD Monitor 2.7-inch viewing angle of 160 degrees;
* Macrosupporting up to 1 cm  distance;
* Shooting in RAW format with 5 frames in succession;
* Manual and 5 customizable profiles;
* Underwater shooting mode «Sea & Sea»;
* Housing is designed for  depths up to 54 m.

In some forums there are rumors that this 12.1-megapixel camera is very similar to the model Ricoh GX200, however, the Sea & Sea deny similarities. DX-2G is equipped with 12.1mpx sensor, 2.7-inch display, ISO up to 1600 with several automatic shooting modes.

I’ve compared the prices and they are ranging from 799$ – 1399$ in different stores , average was 999$. I’ve not use this camera and can’t post full review yet, so I ask you to post review about this product if you’ve recently bought it or tested , though one of my friends recently bought it and he was quite satisfied with results, but he is not pro so I’ll wait until one of my readers will post full review of SEA & SEA DX-2G.

Buy SEA & SEA DX-2G from LeisurePro and get FREE $25 Digital Prints Gift Card

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Underwater Photography

Underwater photography can be a real fun for scuba diver. There are so many amazing scenes to be shot included (but not limited to) colorful marine animals, coral reefs, sharks and it seems that they are shouting “Photograph Us”. Like many other persons, I was fan of Jacques Cousteau specials too and scuba diving was always in my “Things to Do” list. When I tried it first time, I was completely stunned with its beauty and it’s like an addiction you always want more. So I decided that next time my digital camera will not be left at home alone.

If you have paid attention to underwater photography in past, you may noticed that there are 2 types of underwater photographs, wide-angle (main subject in the foreground) and macro (close-up). The reason is that in underwater environment water is not clear at all even if it seems that it is crystal clear, thus it’s quite difficult to shot subject which are located far from camera. Another very important factor is that ray of light which is passing thru water is being partially adsorbed especially warm colors (red and yellow). That is why in depth of 50feet all around will be presented in blue/green; same is true if subject is 50 feet away from camera. Thus one of the most important actions is: Eliminate the distance between subject and camera. With use of wide angle lenses it’s possible to have very close focus on large objects not losing environment view around it. Macro shots are working well if you’re quite close the subject which might be shot. There is no sense to take Telephoto lenses as they are completely useless underwater.
Most of professional photographers who are making their photos on the ground (I mean outside of water) would agree that it’s possible to get decent results with Point and Shoot or cheap SLR camera under the certain conditions, but same is no true for underwater photography. It’s almost impossible to get good images using cheap SLR or P&S devices in underwater. And it’s not because that making underwater photos are harder, but plus you always should consider the fact that in water there are many specific optical problems, which should be always considered. Thus cheap products ( such as Bonica, Snapper, ikelite, Aquashot, some Sea & Sea cameras and ect) are going to give you fair results and most of time you’ll be disappointed unless you’re looking for some snorkeling snapshots during your vacation in Hawaii. But if you’re looking high quality images, stock photography which you’re planning to sell then always remember this quote “Higher is quality – higher is price”. Another thing which always should be remembered is that Flash Units or more often referred as Strobes are mandatory equipment and not optional like in regular photography as loss of colors in the water is one of the most common problems, I’ll not be mistaken saying that 90% of underwater photos are made with use of flash units ( strobes ). So again if you’re only snorkeling at depth of 1-2 meters it is ok not to obtain strobes, but even in such small depth the results will not be good always ( can’t be fixed with Photoshop ). Color filters will not help either , as for each given filter there might be exact depth-subject-exposure , but chances to bring all these things together are obviously very small .

Underwater Photographer should be a good scuba diver

In general successful underwater photographer is also good scuba diver, as for this hobby/profession you need to be scuba diver. Well of course some specific subject require skills of snorkeling and free-diving (skin-diving, breath-hold diving) and it’s mainly because that some marine mammals (dolphins, whales) are being afraid from noisy bubbles coming out from scuba diving gear. I’ve met some guys during my life who were able to hold breath up to 2min. With holding breath you’ll surely be able to get some good pictures of shallow reefs, but you’re limiting the area of your subject significantly, thus being scuba diver is one of the essential part of being successful underwater photographer.

For making really good images you must have very good diving skills. It will make your work much more enjoyable. The quality and type of your photos will depend from your diving skills always. The photographer which shot terrestrial animals use completely different tactics to approach his subject , and it’s mainly because that these animals have natural fear from human and that’s why photographers quite often use long lenses , building blinds , masking himself , climbing on trees , tiptoeing and ect. But in the marine wildlife human is like an alien, and animals are not looking to them as a potential threat unless they behave strangely. And here your scuba diving skills will payoff; marine animals will let you approach them (even more they will come to investigate you) close enough only if you and your body will act like another underwater creature.If you can’t keep yourself comfortable or will start to kick and thrash around just to keep buoyancy, feeling anxious which in turn will produce more are bubbles coming out from your scuba gear – be sure you’ll be able to shoot only subject which are not able to move. The slowest marine fish will swim much faster then you, so trying to chase them is another thing about which you must forget at once. Being good diver will also impact the environment less, as coral and other marine life can be quite fragile thus easily can be damaged.

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Getting the most from your underwater camera

We feel it’s imperative that you take time for a pre-trip camera-gear check out. I suggest that you set up the cameras just as you would when you arrive at your destination. This means batteries in strobes, sync cords – the works. You might find that your strobe head has been damaged on the way home from its last trip, and you definitely do not want to find yourself halfway around the world with a strobe that won’t flash, or missing an “O” ring from the main port of your camera housing.

Don’t flood your camera. Make sure that things like cable ties or lanyards can’t get closed into your camera housing or your Nikonos, which would jeopardize their integrity. Even an eyelash can cause water to get inside your precious photographic gear. Before closing your housing, visually inspect it and gently run a clean toothbrush over the O-ring to ensure a watertight fit. When changing lenses or ports, always lightly grease your O-rings, and run that toothbrush in the O-ring grove to make sure no foreign objects are going to ruin your photography for the rest of your diving adventure.

If you have a rechargeable battery pack on your strobe, plug it in between dives. Doing so won’t harm the battery pack, and will save you from needless frustration on your next dive.

Here are some pros and cons of flash photography: Although we all know how dazzlingly the colors of some fantastic marine subject can be enhanced by a properly used strobe, sometimes-ambient light is a better choice. Backscatter can ruin that perfect whale shark or humpback shot, and – let’s face it – not all your subjects are going to stick around for repeated strobe flashes in their eyes. Sometimes a shark will permit multiple shots, whereas if a strobe were used, the shark would be spooked and gone after just one opportunity.

I like MDX-D3 underwater camera from Nikon , pictures are really great and it’s very comfortable to use, but it’s quite expensive.

Photography Tips for Scuba Divers

You may take great photos above water, but this may not necessarily translate to taking incredible underwater shots when diving. Here are some tips:

* To assure proper strobe alignment, always point the lens of the camera at your face and you will be surprised at what dramatic adjustments need to be made.
* In the make-up section of a good department store they sell little plastic Q-tips, but the ends are foam rubber which, unlike the cotton variety, they leave no dangerous fibers behind. Get some of these for cleaning o-ring grooves.
* When charging your strobe batteries, put a few clothespins on the strobe head to remind yourself to replace your fully charged batteries prior to your next dive.
* Always take back-up gear, such as an extra strobe, sync cord, and maybe even an extra camera body. That way, if something goes wrong, you’re still in business.
* Take a good tool box with little screw drivers, a wrench, pliers, O-ring grease, and extra O-rings of all sizes.
* Spend as much time underwater as possible, and shoot as many photos as possible, varying exposure and strobe position. I shoot four to six shots on a good subject. It’s a numbers game.
* Always slightly underexpose your shots for richer colors.
* Listen to and follow the dive guides. They know the dive sites much better than you do and can point out the best subjects.
* Sea and Sea has a great little cordless TTL slave strobe (YS30) and it’s fantastic. It allows the photographer to eliminate shadows without all the weight of a normal-sized strobe. This wonderful piece of equipment removes the need for T connectors and additional sync cords and all the maintenance and electrical problems that go with a second strobe. Buy one!
* Maintain your equipment meticulously after each dive. You can save many a flood or frozen sync cord if you spend just five to ten minutes during the film-change, cleaning and looking for droplets.

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