Ten Ways To Care For Your Gear

Scuba diving is very equipment intensive which has become a reason to dive in its own right; people like to buy, use and talk about gear. It makes diving fun and fashionable. It provides divers with a means to customize their dive experience. It provides people like me with a job! However, dive gear is sensitive and delicate equipment (despite the efforts of the manufacturers to make it tough) that is prone to damage from wear, poor maintenance and the environment. If a diver does not pay diligent attention to his gear he will surely run into costly and potentially dangerous situations later on.

Arguably The Force That Drove Tec Diving Into Its Current Popular State Was The Equipment Possibilities!

Most divers do look after their gear to the best of their knowledge, and a good proportion of divers are well versed in the tricks and tips necessary to keep your gear fresh, but not every diver is an engineer. That’s why I’ve compiled this article with ten of the best tips and tricks I’ve learn along the way, most of which were created purely to make your life easier or make your gear last longer. So sit back and enjoy the collected wisdom of the entire dive community condensed into one easy-to-read guide!

Packing and Preparing

1) Mark Your Stuff – Your gear is valuable to you, it was probably expensive and, more importantly, it’s yours. Once you’ve cut yourself free from a fishing line with a knife it becomes “my trusty knife”, not just some tool. Likewise, once you’ve done twenty hard dives in a pair of fins they will become your favorite fins. You’ll want to keep these items, so make sure everyone else knows that they are yours! Most other divers have no intention of stealing your stuff, but on a busy boat where lots of gear looks the same then its easy to get confused. Avoid embarrassing yourself by accusing a fellow diver of theft by marking your gear with a very obvious and unique marking, especially on small goods that can “walk” easily. Bear in mind that even permanent pen can rub off so freshen your markings as they fade or consider engraving your name on cheaper items.

There Are Many Products On The Market The Allow You To Mark Your Gear Clearly

2) Bring O-rings and Tie Wraps – This is probably one of my most important rules; carry o-rings and tie-wraps of different sizes with you on every dive expedition. Just as WD-40 and duck tape will fix anything on land, o-rings and tie wraps will fix anything in the sea. It is guaranteed that someone on the boat (maybe you) will require either a new ring, or something will burst open, and you can be their hero by giving them an instant fix. You can tie wrap almost any broken dive gear back to functioning, and often you wont need to fix it any further – tie wraps are that strong!

Get An O-ring Tank Keychain And Never Worry About Forgetting O-rings Again!

3) Wrap Your Reg In Your Suit – This is a really simple tip that I rarely see done, yet it saves a lot of expensive damage. When you’re packing your dive gear (especially if you are using an equipment box) it is important that you look after your reg, especially if you want to keep it looking smart, so all I do is use my wetsuit as a packing material and wrap my regulator set inside it for cushioning. It also protects it from sun damage and dust as well as heavy knocks.

On The Boat

4) Review the Boat’s Safety Gear, and Know Your Own – Once you’ve arrived at the boat and are getting ready to set off, please pay attention to the boat briefing! I’ve given many briefings and watched as a couple or family have giggled their way through it, only to come up to me during the day asking stupid questions that I’d already answered. Also, during the briefing, ask questions about other safety precautions in place on the boat, such as where the emergency oxygen is kept and where the first air box is. Ensure you fully review your own safety equipment too, check the condition of your SMB and your alternate air source. Ensure your knife is sharp. Do all this at the beginning of the day and you can relax for the rest of the trip.

A Good SMB Is Vital Safety Gear, Buy One, Learn How To Use It And Take It With You!

5) Silica Gel - For the avid photographers among you this will seem like an obvious tip, yet I see many divers setting up their underwater cameras without putting a desiccant in the case with the camera. Silica gel packets (the little paper pockets you get inside electronics packaging that tell you not to eat them) are designed to reduce the humidity of a confined space by drawing the moisture from the air. The inside of an underwater camera housing can get moist from condensation (especially if you packed the camera in a humid environment), pop in a silica gel packet to alleviate worries. Also, try to put the camera into the housing in an air conditioned room because the air will be drier.

You Can Buy Silica Gel Specially For Cameras, Though The Packs You Get In Packaging Are Just As Good... And Free!

6) Check For Bugs - This one applies to every country, but is particularly important for divers in warm climates. Whether its a spider that climbed into your regulator when it was stored in the shed, a scorpion in your booties or a wasp in your gloves – check for bugs before you gamely start sucking on your regulator or squeezing your toes into your boots. You’d be amazed at how many people watch as ants get blasted from their regulator during gear setup!

7) Wet Your Tank Band – This is a golden oldie that get ignored by almost every novice I’ve every dived with. When you dive with a BCD every day then you have little to worry about, when you strap your tank in it will stay strapped in. However, if you are an infrequent diver (i.e. You don’t dive for work) then you will likely allow your BCD to dry out. When you go to strap your tank in, no matter how tight your pull the tank band, when the band gets wet it will swell a little which will loosen your tank. Usually this is very little and is no problem, but for real peace of mind all you have to do is wet the band prior to strapping in your tank and you’ll have no worries!

8 ) Spit In Your Mask – Another tip straight from your grandfather’s mouth. Yes, spitting in your mask keeps it from fogging up, there is no doubt about it – it is not an old wife’s tale. It doesn’t have to be disgusting, and if you can’t face spitting in public then just lick your thumb and rub the saliva on the glass. You can use de-fogging sprays but I’m still a fan of the human product because it means there is less for me to carry and it’s one less thing for me to forget!

After The Dive

9) Dry Your Dust Cap – Here comes the pet peeve of every Divemaster, everywhere – once you have finished your days diving you will likely strip down your gear. As you do so you will take your first stage off the the tank valve, at this point you’d be inclined to replace the dust cap over the delicate regulator filter, but first make sure that the cap is completely dry by quickly blasting it with air from the tank. DO NOT blast the first stage filter! You’ll drive dirt and water deeper into the regulator, only dry the dust cap!

10) Rinse your gear – Coming in last but absolutely not least is the top tip for gear longevity: once you’ve disassembled your gear ensure you fully rinse everything of salt water (or pool water). Use a disinfectant but dilute it so it’s not too harsh. When you’re rinsing your regulator ensure you don’t get water into the first stage, either avoid dunking it altogether or make damn sure that dust cap is in place. Every couple of months (depending on usage) you should fully flush the inside of your BCD with baby shampoo and warm water – pour it in through the top dump valve (which will unscrew) and let it soak, then after a few hours you should agitate it and flush out the soapy water. Rinse it clean. On top of this, ensure you service your gear at least yearly to ensure the rings and gaskets are in good condition.

Final Thoughts

Diving is an odd hobby because we are all trained how to use the equipment properly but very few divers are taught how to fully care for their expensive pieces of dive paraphernalia. It is simply tricks and tips like those above that keep your gear in good condition, looking slick and working at optimum levels for years to come. In addition I want to share with you Sport Chalet a really good online store there you can find needed equipment.

Do you have a special maintenance routine? Do you have a particular trick that you are very proud of and stick to rigidly? What is the most blatant violation of dive gear maintenance that you’ve ever seen? We’d love to hear your stories and comments, please share them using the section bellow.

Happy (well maintained) Bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell.

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So you have the basics, what is next in term of gear purchasing? For many it’s a Buoyancy Compensator and Dive Regulator. The BC is a crucial piece of dive gear. It not only allows us to control our position but also holds the tank. BCs come in two different basic configurations. The jacket style generally has a bladder that wraps around the diver as it inflates while the back inflate has the bladder entirely on the back. The jacket style is the perhaps the most commonly seen in use by new divers. The back inflate is however very popular with many experienced divers. A jacket is shown on the left and a back inflate on the right.

The BC has an air cell to inflate and deflate, and accomplishes that via the power inflator. A BC power inflator is a device that is connected to the bladder by a corrugated hose. This hose generally is located on the left side and connects to the BC in the area of the shoulder, though some are connected in the center of the air cell. The power inflator is also connected to the tank by the regulator’s low pressure inflator hose. By pressing a button air is allowed to flow into the BC. Another button is used to control a valve that allows air to escape the BC. When venting or allowing the air to escape the BC, the inflator needs to be raised above the level of the connection to the BC or a trap – similar to that under your sink – is formed and the air cannot escape. Many BCs however also have additional valves known as dump valves to allow air to be vented without using the power inflator. When using the power inflator to vent, some models require the diver to get nearly vertical in the water. Dump valves are often located on the right shoulder and the bottom of the BC on either side, allowing the diver to vent air without getting vertical. BCs may have pockets, D rings, pouches to contain weights, and numerous buckles to hold things together. There are some BCs that have very little beyond a few d rings; these are known as minimalist or basic harness type BCs. Commonly referred to as “back plate and wing” BCs they are fully customizable in size, features, and function and also tend to cost much less than other BCs. They consist of a stainless steel, aluminum, or kydex plate, a simple one piece harness made of two inch nylon webbing, and a bladder (the wing) that is removable from the set up. Wings are available in different lifts to suit the type of dives, cylinder or cylinders used, and the amount of weight the diver requires. They commonly have three or four D rings, a buckle, and little or no extra padding, yet are very comfortable in the water. Some believe that back inflate BC’s tend to push a diver forward in the water. This is a myth. Back mounted BC’s on a properly weighted diver DO NOT push a diver face forward into the water.

Jacket Buoyancy Compensators are more commonly used and often have many “extras,” but this does not mean they are the best choice for every diver. Pockets often seem to be poorly designed and inconveniently placed. There are often more D rings than the three or four found useful by most divers or on some models none at all.

How then do we choose a BC? The priorities must be comfort, quality, and features specific to the needs and preferences of the individual diver. Price is not a reliable barometer of any of these, and paying more does not guarantee you a “better” BC. What matters is what the BC will do for you and how it will suit your needs.

What I look for in a BC is function and simple is better. Why? Because unnecessary complexity creates a more confusing piece of equipment, as well as creating too many potential failure points; it also involves unnecessary expense. There is simply no need for a diver to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a BC. That it will serve you for many years doing the types of dives you do, is the ultimate goal in selecting a BC or any other piece of gear for that matter.

Beware of claims that exotic BC features will make you a better diver. The only thing that will make you a better diver is good training and diving regularly. I can take any BC that I can get on –regardless of size, style, or configuration and within 10 minutes get horizontal and have full control over my buoyancy. This is the result of practice, experience, understanding the effects water has on me and my equipment, and proper weighting and trim. None of this is beyond the grasp of the average OW diver who wants to achieve this level of competence. A BC is a tool, and as with any tool, simple is usually better. The next items we’ll look at are dive regulators.

Dive Regulators

The item that allows us to breathe underwater was invented many years ago in a number of different forms. Regulators were used in industrial applications long before their relatively recent adaptation for underwater use in SCUBA. The modern SCUBA regulator is commonly attributed to two Frenchmen, Emile Gagnan and Jacques Cousteau. In the 1940s, they began to work on a design that allowed a diver to descend into the water and be supplied air at ambient pressure (i.e. as the water pressure increased the amount of air the regulator delivered also increased). This kept the pressure of the water from collapsing the diver’s chest cavity – a very good thing indeed! It also opened SCUBA to the average person. In the early days of diving, regulators (and most SCUBA gear) were sold in sporting good stores and through mail order. Dive shops were rare and training was done by ex-military divers or one bought a book, ordered the gear, got air from somewhere, and went diving! Things are arguably much better now.

Those early regulators were of the double hose design (above) made famous by shows such as Sea Hunt. They worked well and were the most common type in use until the single hose we know today came into regular use in the 1950’s. The single hose regulator is commonly divided into two basic types: the piston and the diaphragm. Each of them has subtypes known as balanced and unbalanced. The balanced regulator basically delivers air at the same rate regardless of the pressure in the tank. Unbalanced regulators tend to get stiffer or breather harder as the tank pressure drops. What concerns us in this work is what reg do we really need and why.

A complete regulator set consists of several parts: the first stage, second stage (there are commonly two of them, a primary and an alternate), the submersible pressure gauge (SPG), and a low pressure (LP) inflator hose. Each of these plays a vital role in breathing underwater. We’ll look at each of them in turn and then try to offer some advice on choosing a set.

The function of the first stage is to reduce the high air pressure in the tank to what is known as an intermediate pressure and distribute it to the other components in the regulator set. This intermediate pressure varies from regulator to regulator but is usually in the 135 – 145 PSI range. This is the pressure that is sent to each second stage and the LP inflator hose. The SPG receives the full pressure in the tank though it is restricted by a much smaller diameter orifice in the first stage and at the gauge itself. The hoses to each component that receive the intermediate pressure are of the same type and have the same size fitting at the first stage. The high pressure (HP) hose to the SPG usually has a larger diameter fitting. This is purposely done to avoid putting a low pressure hose on the high pressure side that would result in a rather spectacular failure of the hose and possible injury to those nearby. The second stage on many regulators is a demand lever type. The user inhales or pushes the purge button and the diaphragm collapses onto the lever, allowing air to enter the chamber and be inhaled. The first stage responds to depth and pressure and by way of the demand valve in the second stage, delivers a proper volume of air as depth increases or decreases. Many second stages have adjustment knobs that will allow the diver to fine tune the amount of air they receive and/or vary the inhalation effort required to depress the lever. While a very nice and convenient feature, it is not absolutely necessary for the average recreational diver to have. It adds to the cost of the unit and for the casual diver, makes no real difference over a well – tuned, non – adjustable one.

The primary second stage (the one in the diver’s mouth), often has adjustment knob and a lever known as a venturi lever that is open or closed. Open, the venturi lever allows air to flow unobstructed to the diver. Closed, it deflects some of that air back up against the diaphragm making it harder to depress and accidentally cause a free flow.

The LP inflator hose has a quick disconnect fitting that attaches to the low pressure inflator on the BC; it allows the diver to add air to the BC. With some exceptions, these are standard connections. Non – standard connections are used on BCs that have a different type of inflator, known as an integrated alternate, integrated octo (short for octopus), or integrated safe second.

These inflator mechanisms combine a secondary breathing regulator with the power inflator. Hoses on these regulators have fittings that will only fit those mechanisms. The integrated octo is the subject of much debate. It does eliminate a hose from the regulator, which theoretically improves streamlining. It is also said to be easy to locate at the end of the power inflator. However, it also requires the donor in a low or out – of – air situation to donate the primary. There is nothing wrong with that for those who have been well trained in donating in that manner.

The problem is that many, if not most, new divers are not trained that way; they have been taught using standard setups that have a separate octo. If you choose a BC with a non standard inflator as described above, it is completely reasonable to ask the shop to provide instruction in the water on its use. If they refuse, walk away. Do not attempt to use or purchase one of these units without instruction. You must control your buoyancy while donating, and for one trained on a standard set up this means venting while ascending. To vent with one of these units while breathing from the secondary, you’ll have to remove it from your mouth repeatedly or use the shoulder dump on the opposite side (if the BC has one). This is not something one wants to do in a stressful situation without being completely comfortable in doing so. I do not recommend these units to my students and I will not permit them in my Advanced Open Water class without seeing the diver use it. There are some class exercises in which this type of unit cannot physically be used at all. Another issue with these BC/regulator combinations is that if the diver decides to travel with one, it is also advisable to also take a spare hose for the integrated alternate because if that hose fails it may be difficult to find a replacement at the travel destination. It is advisable in any case to have a spare standard inflator hose for the regulator normally used with the BC equipped with this unit. In the event that the diver is unable to use their BC they can still use their regulator with a BC equipped with a standard inflator. If this is the case they will still need to have a standard octo that they can put on the regulator or be fully familiar with buddy breathing as they no longer are able to use the integrated second stage that is still attached to their own BC. I personally see too many unnecessary issues that can develop with the use of the integrated octo to make it a viable alternative.

While no part of the regulator is more important than another as they are all vital, the Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG) is the most important gauge one can have. It tells you how much air is in your tank. In the early days of SCUBA, divers did not use them; they had another mechanism that indicated when they were running low on air. Called a “J” valve, it had a lever that functioned as a reserve supply. In the up position this lever gave the diver roughly 300 PSI of air that could be used for the ascent. The issue with these valves was that if the lever got hit or accidentally tripped, the diver might not know it! When the regulators began to breathe stiffer – indicating the air supply was getting low – the diver would reach back and pull down on the steel rod connected to the lever on the valve. With the valve already tripped, the diver had no reserve and had to make what could be too rapid an ascent to the surface, or hope a buddy was close enough to donate for a safe ascent. The SPG was a major step in resolving this issue.

The SPG is a simple device; it measures the pressure in the tank and indicates the reading on a dial, in most cases. While there are digital gauges available, including ones integrated into the dive computer, they offer no additional benefit but do add an additional potential failure point, as they are dependent on batteries. SPGs often indicate pressures up to 5000 PSI and 4000 PSI gauges are common. They are relatively maintenance – free other than rinsing, and changing the O rings in the connection to the hose. As with any mechanical device they can fail, especially if water accidentally gets into them via the first stage and is not removed before the regulator was re-pressurized. In such a case the gauge can be destroyed and the diver put at great risk. Anytime an SPG begins to act strangely it should be replaced. Gauges can be had from $40 to $80 depending on quality. Spend the money; your life is worth much more than that.

We’ve now looked at the essential parts of the modern SCUBA regulator and have briefly described their function. If you want to buy one, what should you look for? First of all, how much do you realistically have to spend? Do you want a piston or diaphragm? For the average recreational diver, it really makes no difference no matter what the shop may tell you. Balanced or unbalanced? This one can make a difference. A balanced unit will deliver the same volume of air with the same effort no matter what the depth may be or how low the tank gets. This is important in my opinion, as it eliminates one potential cause of diver stress (i.e. variable breathing effort). Anything that does that is good, so a balanced one it is!

The next consideration is the water temperature where the diver expects to dive. Warm water (for most regulators this is defined as above 40 degrees Fahrenheit) makes no real difference. Colder or cold water does. Some regulators are not designed to be used in cold water and should not be, due to freeze – ups. Diaphragm regulators tend to be more resistant to this, so if it’s the Great Lakes or deep inland quarries, a sealed diaphragm makes the most sense. Another factor to consider is water quality. Some regulators are known as environmentally sealed, in that no water or other contaminants get into the first stage at all. Some allow water into parts of the first stage. No special unit is required for diving in warm, fresh water that is relatively clean, or for saltwater when the unit will always be carefully rinsed. If there is a lot of sediment in the water or other gunk that could cause a problem, a sealed regulator is called for whether piston or diaphragm. For the strictly warm – water diver who takes good care of their gear, most any first stage will be more than adequate. For anything else, I’d personally only choose an environmentally sealed first stage of the diaphragm type.

Now, what second stages should we consider? The temperature of the water continues to have some influence here. For cold water, I like the adjustable second stage that helps to regulate the amount of air I can get at one time. It reduces the chance of a free – flow due to the first stage freezing as a result of too much air being delivered. In warm water, I use both adjustable and non adjustable second stages. One feature I also look for in a second stage is whether I can disassemble the stage underwater to clear it of anything that might get inside it; all of my personal regulators enable me to do this. I have seen dirt, twigs, and other stuff get into a regulator; being able to fix that without surfacing is convenient, while preventing the need for the diver to surface. The next item to consider is the mouthpiece. There are many choices and no diver should have to deal with an uncomfortable one. There are even custom ones that can be molded to the diver’s mouth. The mouthpiece should be comfortable enough to allow the diver to do a dive of any length with no jaw pain or fatigue.

It might seem prudent to save a few dollars by buying an alternate second stage (octo) that is cheaper than the primary; after all it will hardly ever be used. However, when it is used it will be during a high stress situation (you are donating to an out of air diver) and that is not the time to be dealing with inferior equipment. The octo should be of equal quality to the primary. You should be able to adjust or detune it enough to prevent it from free – flowing and still deliver an adequate volume of air. Again I do recommend that divers choose a standard octo over the integrated type. There is less maintenance involved, they are most likely what you were trained with, and usually they do cost less than the integrated. Standard octos can also be used on most BC’s the diver will ever rent or borrow. The brief summary on second stages is this: For warm water, any second stage of reasonable quality will do. For colder water you should get an adjustable second that can be disassembled under water. Match either with a standard octo of equal quality.

The LP hose is a simple matter of finding one that is the right length for the BC one is using. It should also have the correct connector for the LP inflator. Remember that if the hose has been used on a BC with an integrated inflator it most likely will not work on a standard BC. A second LP hose can be added if one chooses to get a dry suit. This will be connected to the inflator valve on the suit.

The high pressure hose and SPG are the last parts of the regulator that we need to look at. The most common configuration new divers are likely to be exposed to is the console set up. The console will always include at least the SPG and a depth gauge or dive computer. There may also be a compass. If you do plan on getting a console setup, make sure it is organized in the way that suits you best. If it has a compass, try to get a console that will allow you to see both the compass and the depth gauge at the same time; some do not and make it difficult to successfully navigate a course. When choosing a hose length, select one that allows you to easily lift the gauge to see it yet without excess length to get in the way otherwise.

To sum up about dive regulators: For warm water dives any regulator (piston or diaphragm), by any major manufacturer will be completely satisfactory. There is no need for a warm – water diver to spend extra money for a cold – water regulator. An environmentally sealed first stage is always a good option though. For cold water divers, the best choice would be an environmentally sealed, diaphragm first stage, coupled with an adjustable second stage to lessen the chance of a free – flow. For both setups I recommend a standard octo rather than an integrated one. Most new divers are trained with the standard setup and if you are partnered with a new buddy it will lessen or eliminate any confusion in a low on or out of air situation. Finally choose a console if not going with wrist mounted gauges – that will allow you to view the compass and depth gauge at the same time. For more in depth information on choosing equipment watch for my new book that will be available in the spring of 2011. “SCUBA: A Practical Guide for New Divers” will be available on disc, pdf download, Kindle, and in limited print editions.

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Scubapro MK25/S600 Regulator

The Scubapro MK25/S600 has been rated to be one of the best diving regulators that are available in the market in the modern times. This product when teamed up with the first stage MK25 becomes a deadly combination to the technical diver no matter the sea depth and coldness. This regulator is considered to be the ideal match to the first stage MK 25 as it has the utility of being adjustable to suit the preferences of the diver and sea diving conditions. The main benefit of this regulator is that it offers the benefits of effortless breathing to the diver. The product also enjoys positive reviews in the nature of its design precision and lightweight features. The regulator has the utility of having enhanced performance under cold water and the material is also resistant to corrosion.

With the aid of the second stage regulator the diver has no aifficulties breathing. The regulator has the ability to reduce the stress and also enhance the protection and the safety of the diver. The diver has the advantages of breathing smoothly and needs to make low efforts to do so. The regulator provides amounts of air that can be controlled by the diver. The regulator also has a balanced flow performance that is both classic and designated for rendering stability and reliability to the diver. This gives simple and solid performance to the diver and never disappoints him/her.

The second stage needs to be combined with the MK25 first stage and the general advantages of the piston lies in the fewer maintenance costs and reliability. The mechanism that is deployed is very simple and effective. The first stage design enjoys the reputation of being reliable for the provision of high delivery of air with better control. The first stage delivers more air to the second stage and even when there are changes in the tank pressure. With the aid of the balanced piston the diver has the benefits of components that are sensitive and lightweight. The balanced piston also gives instant and fast breathing responses to the diver when under water. The piston ensures that the diver gets the instant delivery of air whenever required and this in turn gives rise to an extremely high flow of air no matter how deep the diver may be in. This feature of the regulator works pretty well for the diver even when there is low tank pressure. If the diver is tired he can derive the benefits of smooth breathing ability even when at ascent or deco stop. When the diver needs to go in for balanced piston in the first stage this regulator is the first choice for professionals and hard core divers. The balanced piston also has the capacity to work well for both cold and warm water environments too.

The first stage also has the advantages of the two pressure ports that are opposite to one another and they permit the individual positioning of the first stage that points both up and down. This feature is a boon for the diver as he/she can position the gauges to suit requirements both to the right and the left side in order to get better freedom of neck and head movements.

There are also multiple low pressure ports that render ultimate freedom when it comes to the arrangement of the low pressure hoses. There are also five high flow ports that function on a swiveling turret and they are able to provide about 360 degrees swivel of hoses. There are also high flow ports that also deliver about 15% of more air than the other traditional ports.

When it comes to the S600 stage there is better air balanced technology and the second stage also renders a balancing chamber have the second stage mechanism. This mechanism has the ability to offset slightly the force of the downstream air that tends to enter from the first stage. This feature of the regulator gives the diver lesser tensions in the spring and it also decreases the resistance to the inhalation to the minimum level. This results in giving smooth breathing mechanism to the diver in all conditions. The air valve of this regulator has balanced technology and it is predominant in the X and S second stages. Combined with the first stages they tend to give the best of performances. The regulator is one of the most dependable ones around and trusted by divers across the world.

The regulator is one that has carbon fiber along with technopolymer housing rendering the diver light weight water resistance for longer life and durability. The regulator is also endowed with an inhalation effort that is adjustable and this exclusive feature helps the diver to adjust to the breathing efforts with the aid of a knob that is big enough to control. This can be fine tuned to any type of diving conditions that the diver is in.

Scubapro MK25/S600 regulator also has the advantages of deploying a mouthpiece that is comfortable enough to give comfort to the diver to reduce fatigue of the jaw. It also does not cause gum irritation as it has been made and checked by dentists worldwide. The mouthpiece is one that lasts longer than other mouthpieces that are available as there is only a lesser effort that is involved to hold it in place comfortably. The mouthpiece is one that is adjustable and it also gives the diver lesser breathing efforts and more smooth breathing facility. Every single breath that is taken by the diver is effortless and comfortable to the diver. The air delivery is without flaws and with this regulator the diver gets comfort and durability without tensions of depth and water temperature. It is highly recommended by professional scuba divers and the cost of the regulator is very reasonable too. The diver tends to get exhausted less and it is considered to be one of the best regulators in the world that is banked by millions of scuba divers across the globe! The price for equipment is 514.95$ ( at the time of review ) at leisurepro.com

In addition I would like to share a video review from simplyscuba.com

This Dive regulator have excellent reviews from customers , here are some of them from leisurepro.com

By Dive Master Don:  Effortless Breathing
I use this regulator in a variety of diving environments, from deep saltwater, to cold freshwater. It breaths effortlessly at all depths and tank pressures and is compatible with any breathing gas.

By geriatric diver: Very good
I bought this because ScubaPro stopped making parts for any older Scubapro model reg.
I am glad that I was forced to change. This reg is like breathing above water. It has never free-flowed. It goes a long time between servicing, but I do not recommend this practice.
It is light and comfortable.

By Greg: Scubapro = The Best!!!
This makes breathing effortless down under!! Don’t hesitate, just buy it!! Am going to buy another one for my son as a Christmas gift!!

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Every rookie diver knows what they need to buy once they decide to invest in a full set of SCUBA gear. They will spend hours deciding if they need the top of the line regulator or if they can make-do with the second best. They will try on several BCDs and still not be satisfied. Yet, once they have bought their mask, fins, regulator set, BCD and an exposure suit I would argue that they still aren’t fully equipped. This is because I believe that a diver needs more than to simply survive the dive – they should have all the tools necessary to make their dive more fun, more comfortable and, ultimately, more safe. Basically, what follows is a small list of gear that you might not have considered when buying your SCUBA set and a little guide to buying each gadget. Some of these items are obvious and some are less so, but in every case I have heard of a diver who needed one and didn’t have one, or the gear they had was poorly chosen for the task.

Compass

This might seem like a patronizing place to start our foray into the other necessities of diving being as it is common knowledge that you need a compass to navigate underwater, yet I could count on one hand how many experienced divers dive with me and have their own compass. I understand why they don’t want to spend extra cash on an item they have no intention of using or, have no idea how to use effectively. This is especially true being as most divers dive with divemasters and do not guide. Yet it is so easy to split up when in a group of four or more and if the visibility is poor then navigating with natural features is often tricky – so you look at your compass which you set on a bearing before your descent, retrace your steps and find your group. Simple, yet rarely done.

Notes for buyers:

• If you go for an analogue compass (my preference) make sure it is aligned for your region – one compass will not work perfectly world-wide due to magnetic field variations.
• Check its tilt angle tolerance – some will stick if you hold it anything other than flat.
• Make sure its face is luminous, night divers rely on a compass even more than day divers.

Compass which I like is Suunto SK7 Wrist Compass

Surface  Marker Buoy

Otherwise known as a (S)urface  (M)arker (B)uoy or safety sausage, a SMB is a required piece of a pro-diver’s equipment. It allows a diver to announce his location to the surface without changing his depth. This means that a diver can ascend knowing he will not get a close hair cut from a passing speed boat, he will be able perform a safety stop or deco stop while the boat manoeuvrings to pick him up or, as I tend to use it, a SMB in conjunction with a reel allows a diver to hang at any constant depth with minimal effort – a very useful tool for an instructor with no safe line to ascend with/ do skills on.

Notes for buyers:

• The SMB needs to be highly conspicuous – they are usually orange or yellow. Some even have small LED lights on the top for night tracking.
• Ensure the seams are strong – if you intend to hang on this buoy then it needs to be burst-resistant, especially in rough seas. Some are so strong that they can double as lift bags.
• The carry case it comes in is important to a diver as high-end SMBs tend to be bulky so think about how you intend to store this during the dive.

Xs Scuba Surface Marker Buoy is a great one

Reel

This essential piece of gear is multipurpose but will most likely be used with the SMB as stated above. A reel will not get tangled as easily as loose line and allows for speedy deployment of the buoy. It can also be used when searching in bad visibility with a buddy, by implementing the circular search pattern. A wreck or cave diver will take great care when choosing a reel as it becomes a lifeline when navigating a complicated overhead environment.

Notes for buyers:

• A good reel doesn’t need to be expensive but homemade improvisations rarely work and can lead to dangerous tangles.
• The reel system should be simple – a common finger reel with a good brass clip on the end is sufficient for most recreational divers.
• Only get as long a reel as you need, if you are an open water diver, a twenty meter reel will suffice as it can reach the surface from eighteen meters, even in mild current.

Our Suggestion – Aluminum Reel with Tension & Locking system

Writing Slate

I find this a difficult piece of gear to write objectively about being as I hate them! They distract divers from the dive and I have seen them send good divers straight into the coral or up to the surface. In short they are a pest. Yet, they are occasionally a blessing when signal communication breaks down into frustrated pointing and exasperated eye rolling. There is also a group of divers who like to take notes while on a dive to document their experiences, this is great as long as they can remain neutral when writing. It is also a great tool for teaching and a very useful piece of kit for a technical diver.

Notes for buyers:

• A slate is for short notes, not essays – keep it small.
• You will need a pencil, a standard wooden pencil works well though some opt for mechanical pencils to avoid broken lead underwater.
• Tec divers tend to use wrist mounted slates to help them keep track of their dive or their dive plan.

If you’ll decide to get this equipment try to get Multi-Page Wrist Slate from LeisurePro

Knife

This is a simple one, every diver should have at least one knife that is easily accessible. It should be very corrosion resistant (titanium is great but is very brittle and can snap easily so a high-grade of stainless steel is sufficient if you maintain it properly) and have a sharp blade. Some BCD mounted knifes have a flat head to avoid bursting your BCD, it also doubles as a prying tool. I carry one on my leg and a smaller back-up on my BCD to allow me to detangle myself even if a can’t get to one of my blades.

Notes for buyers:

• Check for corrosion resistance.
• Sharpness
• Heed maintenance guidelines (e.g. Do you need to dry and oil it straight after use?)
• Consider the knife’s buoyancy – a fisherman’s knife will float which might affect your own position underwater.

Aquatec T-REX Titanium Knife

Flashlight

Here’s another obvious piece of gear that a surprising amount of divers forget to buy or choose inappropriately for their needs. A torch might just be a little light to help a diver see into a cranny, or it might be a medium powered light for poor visibility and occasional night diving, or it might be a technical rig with a tank mounted battery and a strong lamp for deep/cave/wreck dives or regular night diving. Ensure you only buy what you need as torches can be very expensive and very heavy/bulky. Also, I would strongly consider getting a back-up flashlight and maybe even a chemical light for emergencies.

Notes for buyers:

• Ensure that if you are going to night dive that the torch is sufficiently powerful to give you piece of mind – I’d take at least a five watt LED.
• Buy a rechargeable model if possible, purely for the economics.
• Also, for night diving it’s useful to have a wide angled beam to give you maximum light coverage, but if the torch is for poor visibility day-diving then I’d take a focus adjustable lamp so you can pierce the sediment.

Pelican Nemo 2400 Flashlight

Clips

So you have all this great gear, and more (this list is by no means exhausted) so where are you going to put it? It helps if you have a good BCD with plenty of pockets and the less used stuff can be zipped away until required, but nobody wants three kilos of loose gear rattling around in their BCD. So, the smart diver clips their gear in convenient, streamlined locations around their set-up. For instance, a diver might choose to have their SMB on an aluminum carabiner at their waist, they might have their SPG console clipped into a hose rack on their left side, their octopus might be in a quick release clip on their right shoulder strap and they might have their compass on a retractor clip for convenience. Clips are perfect for tailoring your gear to your needs and there is always a clip to suit your requirements but be careful of becoming a Christmas tree, decorated with gear – you need to dive in this outfit too!

Notes for buyers:

• Aluminum carabiners are cheap and great for small items, they are easy to attach.
• Brass hooks are stronger, more durable, can be used to bang a tank but cost more.
• Retractor clips are good for storing gear that you will use frequently throughout the dive, they are costly and some are less than durable. They are spring-loaded wire reels.
• Bungee clips are lower tech solutions to the same problems the retractor addresses, they are more durable and cheaper but less effective and more bulky.
• Hose clips and octopus clips are great for keeping gear streamlined and accessible, there are many variations on the same design.
• Quick-release buckles are good for holding gear in place until it needs to be used, then it can be fully disconnected, used and reattached.

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Suunto Stinger decompression dive computer is fully functional for all types of recreational diving, freediving, technical diving

Suunto Stinger can be in steel or in titanium, which will not only reduce weight by 30%, but also increase the strength and durability.

It is a wristop computer with separate Air, Nitrox and Free/Gauge modes, each of which has a detailed profile memory.

All features are easily accessible. In addition to having information available to you at all times, Suunto Stinger records and stores data for later analysis.

• Air, Nitrox, Free/Gauge modes
• Complete watch functions
• Extensive memory functions
• Adjustable units
• Bookmark function
• Suunto RGBM model
• PC interface

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Due to its original forms and newest polymers, of which are made fins Twin Jet, reduced resistance to water, reduces energy consumption when driving and increases the effective work. This is due to the fact that water is not washing the whole blade, and runs between its two halves, which increases the force of the kick.

ScubaPro Twin Jet features:

Technical;

* Patented split-fi n propeller technology — proven to deliver more forward motion with considerably less effort than traditional blades.
* Drag-reducing vents substantially decrease resistance on both up and down strokes.
* Extended soleplate acts like a lever to enhance power stroke.
* Extra-wide foot pocket is ideal for wearing with a dry or semi-dry suit — also very comfortable to wear with standard warm-water boots.
* Quick-connect swivel buckles. Spring-Heel Straps also available separately.
* Moulded from a stiff compound to deliver a slightly negative buoyancy.

Parameters;

Blade type:  Split
Foot Pocket Type: Open Heel
Quick release buckles: Yes
Vented blades: Yes
Number of materials: 1
Open toe:  Yes
Available sizes:  S/M/L/XL
Color options: Black

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Zeagle Stiletto is a rugged and at the same time light BCD. It is designed for those who are scuba diving both in warm and moderately warm water, and which do not require compatibility with Spark or high capacity super buoyancy compensator from Zeagle.

Reinforced 1000 denier nylon material of the BCD Stiletto provides additional protection against friction or punctures in close spaces, such as coral reefs or sunken objects.

Buoyancy compensator Zeagle Stiletto possesses the necessary lifting force for the majority of mid sized divers and easily fit in a light travel bag.

Features of Stiletto are similar to the famous buoyancy compensator Zeagle Escape and it also distinguishes the D-shaped rings made of stainless steel and the company just made it to meet standards of the size system (PFS).

Zeagle Stiletto is the best for divers who need a lightweight, but durable buoyancy compensator for diving trips and who don’t compromise on features.

Zeagle Stiletto specifications are:

• 35-lb lift capacity low profile retracting bladder
• Personal Fit System (PFS) Sizing
• Reinforced 1000 denier nylon construction
• Sewn on Lumbar Pad
• Two zippered utility pockets
• Adjustable elastic waist panels
• 5 Stainless Steel D-rings
• Adjustable Sternum Strap
• 30-lb capacity Ripcord weight system
• 20-lb capacity rear mount weight system
• Trim Colors available at an extra charge
• Dry Weight: 7.4lbs

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New Suunto D9 is world’s first diving computer with integrated digital compass and wireless data transmission system on the cylinder.

The compass shows the main direction on the graphical map, but the exact location – on a digital display. Fields are stored in the memory device, which allows analysis of the route after the immersion. Naturally, the compass can be used on the surface.

The beautifully designed Suunto D9 has a titanium housing and includes an USB-compatible PC interface and the Suunto Dive Manager 2.0 software.

New Suunto D9 is world’s first diving computer with integrated digital compass and wireless data transmission system on the cylinder.

The compass shows the main direction on the graphical map, but the exact location – on a digital display. Fields are stored in the memory device, which allows analysis of the route after the immersion. Naturally, the compass can be used on the surface.

The beautifully designed Suunto D9 has a titanium housing and includes an USB-compatible PC interface and the Suunto Dive Manager 2.0 software.

Suunto D9 Specifications

Chronograph
- Stopwatch

Compass
- Graphic compass rose
- Guided calibration
- Heading in degrees
- Declination setting
- Cardinal directions
- Bearing tracking

Diving
- Air integration
- Log book memory
- Personal adjustement
- Suunto RGBM decompression model
- Safety stop
- Temperature display
- Wireless air integration
- Deep Stops
- Dive time in seconds
- Operation mode Nitrox
- Dive planner
- Operation mode Watch
- Operation mode Gauge
- Altitude adjustment
- Ascent rate monitor/alarm

- Audible alarm

- Compass
- Full decompression data
- Lifetime history memory
- Maximum depth alarm
- Maximum depth display – 199 m (656 ft)
- Operation mode Air

Nitrox
- CNS% + OTU calculation (OLF)
- Gas switching during dive
- Max PO2 adjustment         0.5-1.6
- O2 % setting         Up to 3 gases containing 21-99%

Other
- Operating temperature         0°C – +40°C/32°F – +104°F
- Water resistance         200m/660ft
- Storage temperature         -20°C – +50°C/-4°F – +122°F
- Selectable metric/imperial units
- Mineral crystal glass
- Menu-based user interface
- Dot-matrix display
- Backlight type         Electro – luminescent Display
- Adjustable backlight duration

PC Software
- Software name         Suunto Dive Manager

Power
- Battery power indicator
- Low battery warning

Watch
- 12/24h
- Calendar clock
- Dual time
- Daily alarms

Suunto “D9″ Hoseless Air/Nitrox Computer, Wrist Unit Only (no Transmitter) ~Includes now FREE the Digital online class to get the most out of your dive computer

Suunto “D9″ Hoseless Air/Nitrox Wrist Computer with Transmitter ~Includes now FREE the Digital online class to get the most out of your dive computer.

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The Canadian company Aquatica, known before this season for their boxes of video and digital cameras, has just announced their first model range of (and in its history) underwater box HD WAVE for Camcorders Sony HDR-SR11/12 and the new Sony HDR-XR500V/520V HD.

New boxing is compiled in such a way that a large 3.2 inch display camera during shooting is opened at an angle of 30 degrees. Also, all the main control buttons sticked out (including the virtual buttons on touchscreen), including manual white balance, which is especially useful in conjunction with the built-in red box sink filter.

A full description will appear soon on the producer’s site, and here is the limited information for those who can not wait.

Constructive boxing – milled aluminum billet (as for all photo-boxes Aquatica). Boxing anodize surface and covered with a solid polyurethane powder (like coating manufacturers like military equipment) to protect against corrosion and other external influences. Boxing with the camera balanced to maintain buoyancy, close to neutral. All the mechanical part is made of stainless steel.

Under the water the operator can control the following functions:

- On / Off.
- Record / Stop.
- Photo.
- Zoom.
- Button «Home» (touchsceen).
- Macro (touchsceen)
- White Balance (touchsceen)

- Management focus, exposure, white balance shift.
- Slow-Motion (touchsceen)

Additional features:

Built (sink) filter compensation blue water.
LED alarm flooding.
Bayonet mount system ports.

Ports:
1. The standard home-port, optically corrected, that would give a picture of 1:1 without distortion.
2. Flat port for macro lovers – permits zoom until it stops.
3. Wide port, giving a 90 ° angle on a broad review of (perhaps partial zoom).

Dimensions: G17.7sm x V12.2sm x SH24 (37cm with the holders).

Fully equipped weight (with the camera, battery and a standard port) on the surface: 7.5kg. In seawater: a slightly negative buoyancy.

Operating depth: 90m.

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Garmin introduced its satellite GPS navigation system series GPSMAP 600s, which stand out with its powerful features, including underwater topography (maps), and water-resistance.

Garmin GPSMAP 600s are equipped with a 5,2 inch display with a resolution of 800×480 pixels and has a preinstalled set of 3D maps, which includes not only terrain on land, but underwater bottom specially designed for lovers of sea walks and diving.

Built-in memory of the GPSMAP 600s can be expanded with SD memory cards. Also there are functions such as step-by-step voice support, opportunity to set points of interest (POI). Geotagging is also there to read and display photos with the location of GPS-coordinates.

Garmin GPSMAP 640 is for the US market. XM WX Satellite Weather data, XM Satellite Radio and XM NavTraffic are available with the optional GXM 40 antenna and subscription.

Garmin GPSMAP 620 is the international version.

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