So you have the basics, what is next in term of gear purchasing? For many it’s a Buoyancy Compensator and Dive Regulator. The BC is a crucial piece of dive gear. It not only allows us to control our position but also holds the tank. BCs come in two different basic configurations. The jacket style generally has a bladder that wraps around the diver as it inflates while the back inflate has the bladder entirely on the back. The jacket style is the perhaps the most commonly seen in use by new divers. The back inflate is however very popular with many experienced divers. A jacket is shown on the left and a back inflate on the right.

The BC has an air cell to inflate and deflate, and accomplishes that via the power inflator. A BC power inflator is a device that is connected to the bladder by a corrugated hose. This hose generally is located on the left side and connects to the BC in the area of the shoulder, though some are connected in the center of the air cell. The power inflator is also connected to the tank by the regulator’s low pressure inflator hose. By pressing a button air is allowed to flow into the BC. Another button is used to control a valve that allows air to escape the BC. When venting or allowing the air to escape the BC, the inflator needs to be raised above the level of the connection to the BC or a trap – similar to that under your sink – is formed and the air cannot escape. Many BCs however also have additional valves known as dump valves to allow air to be vented without using the power inflator. When using the power inflator to vent, some models require the diver to get nearly vertical in the water. Dump valves are often located on the right shoulder and the bottom of the BC on either side, allowing the diver to vent air without getting vertical. BCs may have pockets, D rings, pouches to contain weights, and numerous buckles to hold things together. There are some BCs that have very little beyond a few d rings; these are known as minimalist or basic harness type BCs. Commonly referred to as “back plate and wing” BCs they are fully customizable in size, features, and function and also tend to cost much less than other BCs. They consist of a stainless steel, aluminum, or kydex plate, a simple one piece harness made of two inch nylon webbing, and a bladder (the wing) that is removable from the set up. Wings are available in different lifts to suit the type of dives, cylinder or cylinders used, and the amount of weight the diver requires. They commonly have three or four D rings, a buckle, and little or no extra padding, yet are very comfortable in the water. Some believe that back inflate BC’s tend to push a diver forward in the water. This is a myth. Back mounted BC’s on a properly weighted diver DO NOT push a diver face forward into the water.

Jacket Buoyancy Compensators are more commonly used and often have many “extras,” but this does not mean they are the best choice for every diver. Pockets often seem to be poorly designed and inconveniently placed. There are often more D rings than the three or four found useful by most divers or on some models none at all.

How then do we choose a BC? The priorities must be comfort, quality, and features specific to the needs and preferences of the individual diver. Price is not a reliable barometer of any of these, and paying more does not guarantee you a “better” BC. What matters is what the BC will do for you and how it will suit your needs.

What I look for in a BC is function and simple is better. Why? Because unnecessary complexity creates a more confusing piece of equipment, as well as creating too many potential failure points; it also involves unnecessary expense. There is simply no need for a diver to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a BC. That it will serve you for many years doing the types of dives you do, is the ultimate goal in selecting a BC or any other piece of gear for that matter.

Beware of claims that exotic BC features will make you a better diver. The only thing that will make you a better diver is good training and diving regularly. I can take any BC that I can get on –regardless of size, style, or configuration and within 10 minutes get horizontal and have full control over my buoyancy. This is the result of practice, experience, understanding the effects water has on me and my equipment, and proper weighting and trim. None of this is beyond the grasp of the average OW diver who wants to achieve this level of competence. A BC is a tool, and as with any tool, simple is usually better. The next items we’ll look at are dive regulators.

Dive Regulators

The item that allows us to breathe underwater was invented many years ago in a number of different forms. Regulators were used in industrial applications long before their relatively recent adaptation for underwater use in SCUBA. The modern SCUBA regulator is commonly attributed to two Frenchmen, Emile Gagnan and Jacques Cousteau. In the 1940s, they began to work on a design that allowed a diver to descend into the water and be supplied air at ambient pressure (i.e. as the water pressure increased the amount of air the regulator delivered also increased). This kept the pressure of the water from collapsing the diver’s chest cavity – a very good thing indeed! It also opened SCUBA to the average person. In the early days of diving, regulators (and most SCUBA gear) were sold in sporting good stores and through mail order. Dive shops were rare and training was done by ex-military divers or one bought a book, ordered the gear, got air from somewhere, and went diving! Things are arguably much better now.

Those early regulators were of the double hose design (above) made famous by shows such as Sea Hunt. They worked well and were the most common type in use until the single hose we know today came into regular use in the 1950’s. The single hose regulator is commonly divided into two basic types: the piston and the diaphragm. Each of them has subtypes known as balanced and unbalanced. The balanced regulator basically delivers air at the same rate regardless of the pressure in the tank. Unbalanced regulators tend to get stiffer or breather harder as the tank pressure drops. What concerns us in this work is what reg do we really need and why.

A complete regulator set consists of several parts: the first stage, second stage (there are commonly two of them, a primary and an alternate), the submersible pressure gauge (SPG), and a low pressure (LP) inflator hose. Each of these plays a vital role in breathing underwater. We’ll look at each of them in turn and then try to offer some advice on choosing a set.

The function of the first stage is to reduce the high air pressure in the tank to what is known as an intermediate pressure and distribute it to the other components in the regulator set. This intermediate pressure varies from regulator to regulator but is usually in the 135 – 145 PSI range. This is the pressure that is sent to each second stage and the LP inflator hose. The SPG receives the full pressure in the tank though it is restricted by a much smaller diameter orifice in the first stage and at the gauge itself. The hoses to each component that receive the intermediate pressure are of the same type and have the same size fitting at the first stage. The high pressure (HP) hose to the SPG usually has a larger diameter fitting. This is purposely done to avoid putting a low pressure hose on the high pressure side that would result in a rather spectacular failure of the hose and possible injury to those nearby. The second stage on many regulators is a demand lever type. The user inhales or pushes the purge button and the diaphragm collapses onto the lever, allowing air to enter the chamber and be inhaled. The first stage responds to depth and pressure and by way of the demand valve in the second stage, delivers a proper volume of air as depth increases or decreases. Many second stages have adjustment knobs that will allow the diver to fine tune the amount of air they receive and/or vary the inhalation effort required to depress the lever. While a very nice and convenient feature, it is not absolutely necessary for the average recreational diver to have. It adds to the cost of the unit and for the casual diver, makes no real difference over a well – tuned, non – adjustable one.

The primary second stage (the one in the diver’s mouth), often has adjustment knob and a lever known as a venturi lever that is open or closed. Open, the venturi lever allows air to flow unobstructed to the diver. Closed, it deflects some of that air back up against the diaphragm making it harder to depress and accidentally cause a free flow.

The LP inflator hose has a quick disconnect fitting that attaches to the low pressure inflator on the BC; it allows the diver to add air to the BC. With some exceptions, these are standard connections. Non – standard connections are used on BCs that have a different type of inflator, known as an integrated alternate, integrated octo (short for octopus), or integrated safe second.

These inflator mechanisms combine a secondary breathing regulator with the power inflator. Hoses on these regulators have fittings that will only fit those mechanisms. The integrated octo is the subject of much debate. It does eliminate a hose from the regulator, which theoretically improves streamlining. It is also said to be easy to locate at the end of the power inflator. However, it also requires the donor in a low or out – of – air situation to donate the primary. There is nothing wrong with that for those who have been well trained in donating in that manner.

The problem is that many, if not most, new divers are not trained that way; they have been taught using standard setups that have a separate octo. If you choose a BC with a non standard inflator as described above, it is completely reasonable to ask the shop to provide instruction in the water on its use. If they refuse, walk away. Do not attempt to use or purchase one of these units without instruction. You must control your buoyancy while donating, and for one trained on a standard set up this means venting while ascending. To vent with one of these units while breathing from the secondary, you’ll have to remove it from your mouth repeatedly or use the shoulder dump on the opposite side (if the BC has one). This is not something one wants to do in a stressful situation without being completely comfortable in doing so. I do not recommend these units to my students and I will not permit them in my Advanced Open Water class without seeing the diver use it. There are some class exercises in which this type of unit cannot physically be used at all. Another issue with these BC/regulator combinations is that if the diver decides to travel with one, it is also advisable to also take a spare hose for the integrated alternate because if that hose fails it may be difficult to find a replacement at the travel destination. It is advisable in any case to have a spare standard inflator hose for the regulator normally used with the BC equipped with this unit. In the event that the diver is unable to use their BC they can still use their regulator with a BC equipped with a standard inflator. If this is the case they will still need to have a standard octo that they can put on the regulator or be fully familiar with buddy breathing as they no longer are able to use the integrated second stage that is still attached to their own BC. I personally see too many unnecessary issues that can develop with the use of the integrated octo to make it a viable alternative.

While no part of the regulator is more important than another as they are all vital, the Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG) is the most important gauge one can have. It tells you how much air is in your tank. In the early days of SCUBA, divers did not use them; they had another mechanism that indicated when they were running low on air. Called a “J” valve, it had a lever that functioned as a reserve supply. In the up position this lever gave the diver roughly 300 PSI of air that could be used for the ascent. The issue with these valves was that if the lever got hit or accidentally tripped, the diver might not know it! When the regulators began to breathe stiffer – indicating the air supply was getting low – the diver would reach back and pull down on the steel rod connected to the lever on the valve. With the valve already tripped, the diver had no reserve and had to make what could be too rapid an ascent to the surface, or hope a buddy was close enough to donate for a safe ascent. The SPG was a major step in resolving this issue.

The SPG is a simple device; it measures the pressure in the tank and indicates the reading on a dial, in most cases. While there are digital gauges available, including ones integrated into the dive computer, they offer no additional benefit but do add an additional potential failure point, as they are dependent on batteries. SPGs often indicate pressures up to 5000 PSI and 4000 PSI gauges are common. They are relatively maintenance – free other than rinsing, and changing the O rings in the connection to the hose. As with any mechanical device they can fail, especially if water accidentally gets into them via the first stage and is not removed before the regulator was re-pressurized. In such a case the gauge can be destroyed and the diver put at great risk. Anytime an SPG begins to act strangely it should be replaced. Gauges can be had from $40 to $80 depending on quality. Spend the money; your life is worth much more than that.

We’ve now looked at the essential parts of the modern SCUBA regulator and have briefly described their function. If you want to buy one, what should you look for? First of all, how much do you realistically have to spend? Do you want a piston or diaphragm? For the average recreational diver, it really makes no difference no matter what the shop may tell you. Balanced or unbalanced? This one can make a difference. A balanced unit will deliver the same volume of air with the same effort no matter what the depth may be or how low the tank gets. This is important in my opinion, as it eliminates one potential cause of diver stress (i.e. variable breathing effort). Anything that does that is good, so a balanced one it is!

The next consideration is the water temperature where the diver expects to dive. Warm water (for most regulators this is defined as above 40 degrees Fahrenheit) makes no real difference. Colder or cold water does. Some regulators are not designed to be used in cold water and should not be, due to freeze – ups. Diaphragm regulators tend to be more resistant to this, so if it’s the Great Lakes or deep inland quarries, a sealed diaphragm makes the most sense. Another factor to consider is water quality. Some regulators are known as environmentally sealed, in that no water or other contaminants get into the first stage at all. Some allow water into parts of the first stage. No special unit is required for diving in warm, fresh water that is relatively clean, or for saltwater when the unit will always be carefully rinsed. If there is a lot of sediment in the water or other gunk that could cause a problem, a sealed regulator is called for whether piston or diaphragm. For the strictly warm – water diver who takes good care of their gear, most any first stage will be more than adequate. For anything else, I’d personally only choose an environmentally sealed first stage of the diaphragm type.

Now, what second stages should we consider? The temperature of the water continues to have some influence here. For cold water, I like the adjustable second stage that helps to regulate the amount of air I can get at one time. It reduces the chance of a free – flow due to the first stage freezing as a result of too much air being delivered. In warm water, I use both adjustable and non adjustable second stages. One feature I also look for in a second stage is whether I can disassemble the stage underwater to clear it of anything that might get inside it; all of my personal regulators enable me to do this. I have seen dirt, twigs, and other stuff get into a regulator; being able to fix that without surfacing is convenient, while preventing the need for the diver to surface. The next item to consider is the mouthpiece. There are many choices and no diver should have to deal with an uncomfortable one. There are even custom ones that can be molded to the diver’s mouth. The mouthpiece should be comfortable enough to allow the diver to do a dive of any length with no jaw pain or fatigue.

It might seem prudent to save a few dollars by buying an alternate second stage (octo) that is cheaper than the primary; after all it will hardly ever be used. However, when it is used it will be during a high stress situation (you are donating to an out of air diver) and that is not the time to be dealing with inferior equipment. The octo should be of equal quality to the primary. You should be able to adjust or detune it enough to prevent it from free – flowing and still deliver an adequate volume of air. Again I do recommend that divers choose a standard octo over the integrated type. There is less maintenance involved, they are most likely what you were trained with, and usually they do cost less than the integrated. Standard octos can also be used on most BC’s the diver will ever rent or borrow. The brief summary on second stages is this: For warm water, any second stage of reasonable quality will do. For colder water you should get an adjustable second that can be disassembled under water. Match either with a standard octo of equal quality.

The LP hose is a simple matter of finding one that is the right length for the BC one is using. It should also have the correct connector for the LP inflator. Remember that if the hose has been used on a BC with an integrated inflator it most likely will not work on a standard BC. A second LP hose can be added if one chooses to get a dry suit. This will be connected to the inflator valve on the suit.

The high pressure hose and SPG are the last parts of the regulator that we need to look at. The most common configuration new divers are likely to be exposed to is the console set up. The console will always include at least the SPG and a depth gauge or dive computer. There may also be a compass. If you do plan on getting a console setup, make sure it is organized in the way that suits you best. If it has a compass, try to get a console that will allow you to see both the compass and the depth gauge at the same time; some do not and make it difficult to successfully navigate a course. When choosing a hose length, select one that allows you to easily lift the gauge to see it yet without excess length to get in the way otherwise.

To sum up about dive regulators: For warm water dives any regulator (piston or diaphragm), by any major manufacturer will be completely satisfactory. There is no need for a warm – water diver to spend extra money for a cold – water regulator. An environmentally sealed first stage is always a good option though. For cold water divers, the best choice would be an environmentally sealed, diaphragm first stage, coupled with an adjustable second stage to lessen the chance of a free – flow. For both setups I recommend a standard octo rather than an integrated one. Most new divers are trained with the standard setup and if you are partnered with a new buddy it will lessen or eliminate any confusion in a low on or out of air situation. Finally choose a console if not going with wrist mounted gauges – that will allow you to view the compass and depth gauge at the same time. For more in depth information on choosing equipment watch for my new book that will be available in the spring of 2011. “SCUBA: A Practical Guide for New Divers” will be available on disc, pdf download, Kindle, and in limited print editions.

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Regulator Review:  HOG (Highly Optimized Gear) D1 Coldwater 1^st with Adjustable 2^nd

In 2007, a new line of equipment was introduced to the SCUBA world. Known as HOG along with its recreational sibling, Edge, this line was designed to give the tech diver and the recreational diver another choice in the world of scuba equipment, an opportunity to buy high quality, no nonsense gear at a reasonable price. The line was not designed to take over the entire dive market, but it is making steady in-roads to many areas. Founded by Chris Richardson of Georgia, this is their goal is in their own words:

“We have a single minded purpose, to offer excellent quality equipment, superlative service and affordable prices.”

This they have done. They continue to add to the product line and the same theme is carried over with every new item. I became a fan and user of HOG equipment in 2009 when they introduced the D1 regulator. This reg was introduced to the dive community at an unheard of price for a regulator of this quality with the features it has. At select retailers, it was offered at the incredible price of $150 US for both stages! I bought two of each stage.

Shown above, these units came without hoses. Why? Very simple – they were sold with the idea that the diver knew best which hose he or she needed. Tech divers have set ways in which they configure their gear and many times it is not with hose lengths that are the same as what usually comes from the manufacturer. They may indeed want a standard length recreational primary hose of 32- 36 inches (1 meter) if it is going to be used for single tank diving, but more likely it will be a five foot or seven foot hose (2 meters). If it is a longer hose, an octo that is bungeed under the chin is used. In that case, as opposed to a 40 inch (1.2 meter) hose that would be donated to the divers buddy, a 22 inch (approximately 600 centimeter) hose is used, as the primary would be donated in an out of air situation. The five foot or seven foot (2 meter) hose also allows the divers to exit tight spaces such as a shipwreck or cave single file, where side by side swimming is not possible. In addition, technical divers consider the Buoyancy Compensator they are using to determine the length of the LP inflator hose. It could be as short as 12 inches (approximately 325 centimeters) or as long as 18 inches (approximately 475 centimeters) depending on the BC which is most often a Backplate and Wing type. As for the HP hose, most tech divers use only an SPG attached to the hose. As such, there is no console with a computer or compass, so these are worn on the wrist. Instead of the 32 or 36 inch (1 meter) hose found on most recreational setups then, the diver typically uses a 24 inch (approximately 625 centimeter) length hose.

So what HOG/Edge did in order to keep costs down and not have extra hoses lying around is, they left it up to the diver to decide what hoses are needed. I bought my regulators to use on my double cylinders. As such, I already had the hoses needed and so my total outlay was $308 US for both regulators! The price has since gone up but there are still deals to be had. One dealer offers the doubles set up for $585 US including an SPG. Try to buy one top end regulator from one of the major brands at that price!

The HOG regulators are made for the diver who wants a solid performer with good looks and a solid feel. They are rugged, big, and very cool looking. The picture above of the first stage is properly exposed. The finish is“black chrome” that just looks great and stays that way. The finish is highly resistant to scratches and corrosion. The stage is available with a 5^th LP port on the bottom to aid in hose routing — I highly recommend this option! The D1 first stage comes in DIN but an adapter for DIN to Yoke could be used. In places where DIN connections are common, such as in Europe, this eliminates the need to convert the reg over to the DIN fitting.

Here is one of my first stages with the 5^th LP port used for the primary second stage. As you can see, the finish is beautiful and highly reflective! The second stage is also very well finished and oozes class and character; mine is shown below. As you can see, it has been used! The photo on the left shows the adjustment knob and the lever (red) that deflects air around the inside of the chamber to reduce the chance of free flow on the surface. I love this feature. It allows me to tune the reg to a minimal breathing effort and yet not worry about bumping the purge button on the surface or underwater, which as we divers all know, can start a free flow that wastes air and elicits laughter from our buddies!

This feature is also why I have two of these dive regulators. For divers who do technical dives it is important to have a bungeed octo that is just as good as the primary. We do not want a lower quality unit to be the one we have to go to in an emergency. The price of the HOG regulators means that we do not have to sacrifice performance in order to save money. Of course, if saving money is a priority, it is probably not a good idea to get into technical diving in the first place, because once you start doubling everything you would carry on a non-technical single tank dive it adds up very fast. HOG knows this as they themselves are technical divers and take this into consideration in product development and pricing. The types of dives these regulators are designed for mean that cutting corners in quality to save money can be a very bad, if not fatal, decision. With HOG, that sacrifice is unnecessary. We can indeed have our cake and eat it too!

I have removed the face plate for a very important reason: to show that it can be done. And no special tools are needed.  It is imperative for me to be able to do this with my second stages, for if a problem arises underwater I want to be able to do this even with heavy gloves on. There have been times when a piece of debris got caught in the second stage — I once saw a reg with a twig in it! Being able to take the second stage apart at depth can be a real plus when it is a simple fix and you do not want to or cannot surface to address it. The photo below shows the top view of the second stage with the cover removed.

As you can see, the same attention to detail is used on the inside of the reg. The demand lever is robust yet light and moves easily. The horizontal red bar is the deflector mechanism. The adjustment knob is purposely made large, making it easy to manipulate even with dry gloves or mitts. Everything about this unit is made with function and reliability in mind. There are no wasted spaces or extras that could end up being failure points. The reg shown is the one that is located on the right post of my dual tanks, hence the bolt snap tied near the second stage.

The regulator is environmentally sealed, meaning no water or contaminants can enter the first stage when it is on the tank and pressurized. The unit is also rated for cold water. This was an important feature for me as I dive in water as cold as 38 degrees F; I will be taking these regulators under the ice in 2011 when I assist with an ice diving class. The other feature that was very important to me was that the manufacturer allows sales of the service kits to divers. That’s correct – buy this reg and if you know how, you can get the kit to service it yourself.  No hassles, no arguments!

It is highly recommended that you take a service course but the fact is that if you have serviced a regulator before, you can service these. Just take your time and remember how everything came apart! Another option is to buy the kit, take it and the regulator to any competent technician, and have them do it. One more option is to simply send the regulator to the dealer you bought it from and allow them to do it. The dealers that currently carry the line of gear all have experienced techs to service them. Finally, you can always send the reg to HOG to let them service it. Whichever option you choose, it is important to have the reg serviced when it is needed.

As to how they perform, that is what you really want to know isn’t it? The short answer is they work great! I, as an instructor, have had the opportunity to dive dozens of different regulators, from inexpensive basic piston regulators to what would be considered very high end units (titanium bodies, balanced, over balanced, etc.). The HOG D1 cold with HOG second stage breathes as good as or better than regulators costing literally two or three times as much. I have had them in water from 38 degrees to 85 degrees and they work with no extra effort in breathing. As a result, these regulators are now my favorite. I own eight other regulators from Sherwood, Oceanic, ScubaPro, and Aqualung – all of these will eventually be replaced with HOG or Edge regulators. The fact that I can service them myself, they breathe excellent, look good, and are utterly reliable makes that an easy decision. There is any number of choices one could make when selecting a new regulator and for the most part, all of them will work to one degree or another, but today’s divers want value for their money. They don’t want to waste hard earned cash on something they may have to replace or will not be happy with a year or two from now. The regulators from HOG will last the diver many years. They will also allow you to take some of that hard earned money and spend it on actual diving! In this writer’s opinion, the HOG D1 Cold 1^st stage coupled with the adjustable HOG second is the best regulator for the money on the market today!

Jim Lapenta

SEI Diving Instructor #204

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Very comfortable wetsuit ScubaPro Everflex Steamer is better than any other. Why? You’ll ask me! Because manufacture uses the same technology, that earlier, but the style of suit changes – it has become more modern and provides greater flexibility. If you are tired of putting on a suits – is EverFlex Steamer is for you.

The EverFlex Steamer for men in the 3mm thickness is the water-lover’s dream come true. This suit offers a bit less warmth than the 5mm thickness, making it ideal for water that is more tropical then tepid. It bends where you do, but without that common Wetsuit vise grip sensation.

The ScubaPro Everflex Steamer Features

* Available in 3/2, 5/4 & 7/5mm thickness, in men’s and women’s sizes
* 100% EverFlex neoprene material construction
* Double blind stitched outer seams and single blind stitched inner seams for durability and comfort.  The EverFlex seams are virtually watertight.
* Raw-cut collar neck line
* Compression molded combination zipper-flap/spine-pad for enhanced water entry and back protection
* Integrated Tatex kneepads for abrasion resistance
* Metal main zipper slider is sturdy yet easy to operate
* NEW I-SAFE patch allows divers to thread their wrist computers through it ensuring added instrument protection

Technical Specs of Scuba Pro Everflex Steamer

* EverFlex material outside, Extend material inside.
* Compression molded combination zipper flap and spine pad: minimizes water intrusion and protects spine and back from heavy tank load.
* Flex panels: these highly flexible panels are used in areas of a wetsuit requiring the greatest mobility for the diver, including knees, elbows, calves, shoulders, and thighs.
* Nylon webbing thumb loop at the base of all back zippers: strategically placed for ease of closing without buddy assistance.
* Single thread blind-stitch: a low profile, resistant blind stitch seam that is used on the inside of the suit for comfort against the skin.
* Double blind-stitched seams for comfort and durability.

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Suunto D6 is an advanced wristop dive computer designed for demanding divers.

Suunto D6 is made of stainless steel as a wrist watch. The thin shell and an adjustable strap in a wide range of equally well-suited as a wide, elegant and at the wrist
.

Because of Suunto’s integrated RGBM system, the D6 allows you to make repeated stops at various depths, instead of making a more traditional single safety stop to decompress.

All your stops, steps are logged, which allows you to compare the diving profile of immersion immediately after its completion.

If diving with Nitrox, the D6 offers you the ability to easily switch between gases during the dive, which means you can alter your oxygen levels as you ascend, reducing the length of your required decompression stop.

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Engineers of the U.S. company Oregon Scientific, which specializes in development of action cameras, have created a new camcorder to work in extreme conditions. New ATC-3K is a compact device – its weight without batteries is hardly a hundred grams, excellent toughness and a convenient, ergonomic form factor.

With the help of special anchorages ATC-3K may be affixed to the steering of a mountain bike, and on a helmet of snowboarders or to the dive suit. Thanks to its waterproof body, ATC-3K will easily operate at the depth of 3 m, which makes it indispensable in the underwater photography at small depths.

Video can be stored on a 32 GB internal memory, but with addition of 4 GB memory cards SD video recording time is increased to two hours.

Optoelectronic filling makes it possible to record with a resolution of 640×480 pixels and the speed of 30 frames per second.

Oregon ATC-3K is a budget oriented device and can be purchased for only $138 at amazon.com

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