Ten Ways To Care For Your Gear

Scuba diving is very equipment intensive which has become a reason to dive in its own right; people like to buy, use and talk about gear. It makes diving fun and fashionable. It provides divers with a means to customize their dive experience. It provides people like me with a job! However, dive gear is sensitive and delicate equipment (despite the efforts of the manufacturers to make it tough) that is prone to damage from wear, poor maintenance and the environment. If a diver does not pay diligent attention to his gear he will surely run into costly and potentially dangerous situations later on.

Arguably The Force That Drove Tec Diving Into Its Current Popular State Was The Equipment Possibilities!

Most divers do look after their gear to the best of their knowledge, and a good proportion of divers are well versed in the tricks and tips necessary to keep your gear fresh, but not every diver is an engineer. That’s why I’ve compiled this article with ten of the best tips and tricks I’ve learn along the way, most of which were created purely to make your life easier or make your gear last longer. So sit back and enjoy the collected wisdom of the entire dive community condensed into one easy-to-read guide!

Packing and Preparing

1) Mark Your Stuff – Your gear is valuable to you, it was probably expensive and, more importantly, it’s yours. Once you’ve cut yourself free from a fishing line with a knife it becomes “my trusty knife”, not just some tool. Likewise, once you’ve done twenty hard dives in a pair of fins they will become your favorite fins. You’ll want to keep these items, so make sure everyone else knows that they are yours! Most other divers have no intention of stealing your stuff, but on a busy boat where lots of gear looks the same then its easy to get confused. Avoid embarrassing yourself by accusing a fellow diver of theft by marking your gear with a very obvious and unique marking, especially on small goods that can “walk” easily. Bear in mind that even permanent pen can rub off so freshen your markings as they fade or consider engraving your name on cheaper items.

There Are Many Products On The Market The Allow You To Mark Your Gear Clearly

2) Bring O-rings and Tie Wraps – This is probably one of my most important rules; carry o-rings and tie-wraps of different sizes with you on every dive expedition. Just as WD-40 and duck tape will fix anything on land, o-rings and tie wraps will fix anything in the sea. It is guaranteed that someone on the boat (maybe you) will require either a new ring, or something will burst open, and you can be their hero by giving them an instant fix. You can tie wrap almost any broken dive gear back to functioning, and often you wont need to fix it any further – tie wraps are that strong!

Get An O-ring Tank Keychain And Never Worry About Forgetting O-rings Again!

3) Wrap Your Reg In Your Suit – This is a really simple tip that I rarely see done, yet it saves a lot of expensive damage. When you’re packing your dive gear (especially if you are using an equipment box) it is important that you look after your reg, especially if you want to keep it looking smart, so all I do is use my wetsuit as a packing material and wrap my regulator set inside it for cushioning. It also protects it from sun damage and dust as well as heavy knocks.

On The Boat

4) Review the Boat’s Safety Gear, and Know Your Own – Once you’ve arrived at the boat and are getting ready to set off, please pay attention to the boat briefing! I’ve given many briefings and watched as a couple or family have giggled their way through it, only to come up to me during the day asking stupid questions that I’d already answered. Also, during the briefing, ask questions about other safety precautions in place on the boat, such as where the emergency oxygen is kept and where the first air box is. Ensure you fully review your own safety equipment too, check the condition of your SMB and your alternate air source. Ensure your knife is sharp. Do all this at the beginning of the day and you can relax for the rest of the trip.

A Good SMB Is Vital Safety Gear, Buy One, Learn How To Use It And Take It With You!

5) Silica Gel - For the avid photographers among you this will seem like an obvious tip, yet I see many divers setting up their underwater cameras without putting a desiccant in the case with the camera. Silica gel packets (the little paper pockets you get inside electronics packaging that tell you not to eat them) are designed to reduce the humidity of a confined space by drawing the moisture from the air. The inside of an underwater camera housing can get moist from condensation (especially if you packed the camera in a humid environment), pop in a silica gel packet to alleviate worries. Also, try to put the camera into the housing in an air conditioned room because the air will be drier.

You Can Buy Silica Gel Specially For Cameras, Though The Packs You Get In Packaging Are Just As Good... And Free!

6) Check For Bugs - This one applies to every country, but is particularly important for divers in warm climates. Whether its a spider that climbed into your regulator when it was stored in the shed, a scorpion in your booties or a wasp in your gloves – check for bugs before you gamely start sucking on your regulator or squeezing your toes into your boots. You’d be amazed at how many people watch as ants get blasted from their regulator during gear setup!

7) Wet Your Tank Band – This is a golden oldie that get ignored by almost every novice I’ve every dived with. When you dive with a BCD every day then you have little to worry about, when you strap your tank in it will stay strapped in. However, if you are an infrequent diver (i.e. You don’t dive for work) then you will likely allow your BCD to dry out. When you go to strap your tank in, no matter how tight your pull the tank band, when the band gets wet it will swell a little which will loosen your tank. Usually this is very little and is no problem, but for real peace of mind all you have to do is wet the band prior to strapping in your tank and you’ll have no worries!

8 ) Spit In Your Mask – Another tip straight from your grandfather’s mouth. Yes, spitting in your mask keeps it from fogging up, there is no doubt about it – it is not an old wife’s tale. It doesn’t have to be disgusting, and if you can’t face spitting in public then just lick your thumb and rub the saliva on the glass. You can use de-fogging sprays but I’m still a fan of the human product because it means there is less for me to carry and it’s one less thing for me to forget!

After The Dive

9) Dry Your Dust Cap – Here comes the pet peeve of every Divemaster, everywhere – once you have finished your days diving you will likely strip down your gear. As you do so you will take your first stage off the the tank valve, at this point you’d be inclined to replace the dust cap over the delicate regulator filter, but first make sure that the cap is completely dry by quickly blasting it with air from the tank. DO NOT blast the first stage filter! You’ll drive dirt and water deeper into the regulator, only dry the dust cap!

10) Rinse your gear – Coming in last but absolutely not least is the top tip for gear longevity: once you’ve disassembled your gear ensure you fully rinse everything of salt water (or pool water). Use a disinfectant but dilute it so it’s not too harsh. When you’re rinsing your regulator ensure you don’t get water into the first stage, either avoid dunking it altogether or make damn sure that dust cap is in place. Every couple of months (depending on usage) you should fully flush the inside of your BCD with baby shampoo and warm water – pour it in through the top dump valve (which will unscrew) and let it soak, then after a few hours you should agitate it and flush out the soapy water. Rinse it clean. On top of this, ensure you service your gear at least yearly to ensure the rings and gaskets are in good condition.

Final Thoughts

Diving is an odd hobby because we are all trained how to use the equipment properly but very few divers are taught how to fully care for their expensive pieces of dive paraphernalia. It is simply tricks and tips like those above that keep your gear in good condition, looking slick and working at optimum levels for years to come. In addition I want to share with you Sport Chalet a really good online store there you can find needed equipment.

Do you have a special maintenance routine? Do you have a particular trick that you are very proud of and stick to rigidly? What is the most blatant violation of dive gear maintenance that you’ve ever seen? We’d love to hear your stories and comments, please share them using the section bellow.

Happy (well maintained) Bubbles!

By Jamie Campbell.

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What is the diver responsible for?

I hope to convey to new divers and those considering taking up this activity just what it is you are getting into.  I am giving careful thought to this as I write it in order to not be overly alarmist but still convey the seriousness of dive training and the sport of scuba diving.

I sincerely hope that it makes one think and ask questions of their instructor, dive master, boat operator, resort, and fellow divers.  It can not be overemphasized how easy it is to become so enamored with the idea of diving that things can be overlooked that can result in the diver being injured or worse.  Divers can and have died when they surrendered responsibility for their safety to someone else.

First of all we need to look at where these decisions actually began.  Many times it began before the diver even entered the water.  Perhaps as soon as they chose a shop or instructor to train with.  It could have been because of a friend, relative, ad in the yellow pages etc.  But in any case it is likely that until that time they had not done any research regarding agency, training method, time required, etc.

Everything they know or knew about diving most likely came from that one person or business.  As such it is all too common for a new diver to be astonished to find out just how many agencies, training methods, and programs there are.  I myself had no idea what was available to me, and my instructor was careful to avoid discussing the subject of different methods of training.  I was clueless.  Had I known what I know now my path to instructor would most likely have been very different.

But in any case it came down to, that in my early training, believing that someone other than me was responsible for my own safety.  During training that is somewhat true when undertaking a new course that involves new risks and challenges.  Once that card is received however it is an entirely different story.  At that point it is the diver’s responsibility to look out for their own safety.  As certified divers we should be capable of diving with a buddy of equal skill in conditions similar to or better than what the training was conducted in without the assistance of a DM, A/I, or Instructor.  This is even stated as the goal of the Open Water training course by most if not all agencies.

If this is not the case then that diver should not have received a c card.  The diver should be fully capable of planning the dive, doing all the necessary pre dive checks, executing the dive, and exiting safely from the water.  This is the responsibility of the diver along with being able to make the decision to NOT DIVE should conditions or the dive plan be beyond the skill, training, or comfort level of the diver.  In cases where a Divemaster or other guide is employed it still falls ultimately to the diver to dive or not.  When they choose to follow another persons plan with no input of their own they end up doing what are known as “trust me dives”.  Many times nothing untoward happens on these dives.  But unfortunately the odds are against this being the case every time.  And when something does go wrong it may go as wrong as to result in serious injury or death.  When divers are led in groups on a site as seen below the odds of it becoming a “trust me” dive increase as divers get complacent and allow themselves to be led and start to not keep track of things they should.  Air pressures get ignored, buddies drift apart, and rather than having many persons to assist what often results is no one comes to the aid of the diver as they feel that someone else will.
Now we enter into a realm where the lines of responsibility may become blurred.  Perhaps the DM should not have let the person dive or taken them on the dive? Perhaps the operator should not have let them on the boat? Perhaps the divers buddy should have said something or maybe other divers on the boat who may have known of the lack of training or skill level of the diver? In any case the results do not change.  A diver is hurt or dead.

This sport is fun, exciting, educational, relaxing, and if practiced within the limits of one’s training and experience- SAFE.  BUT to go beyond one’s experience level, training, and even comfort level, too fast or too far is inviting disaster.  Every instructor should impart to their students that this sport can kill and do it in some very nasty ways.

But do you really know how serious these things are?  Do you realize what happens when a lung rips and air rushes into the chest cavity or sack around the heart and bloody froth comes out of the mouth.  Or an air bubble enters the blood stream and travels to the brain resulting in a condition similar to a stroke with all the after affects of a stroke such as paralysis, loss of memory, loss of muscle control, and death.

Who is responsible for an occurrence like this? Unless there is an underlying medical condition, THE DIVER IS! They were told not to hold their breath but did anyway, why? Maybe they panicked.  But if they panicked why did they panic?  Who is responsible for that?  In this instructor’s opinion it falls on the instructor to test the student with tasks that will help to determine the students’ tendency to panic.  What these tasks would be will undoubtedly vary with agency, instructor, and student.  They need not be dangerous or complex.  But simple task loading exercises such as having the student remove and replace a mask several times while swimming if this appears to be an issue with them.  In short what appears to give them difficulty should be repeated until the tendency to react with panic, apprehension, or nervousness is no longer apparent.  It also falls on the instructor to teach the Panic Cycle.  What it is, how it occurs, and how to break it.  This needs to be taught in the Open Water Class.

Maybe the diver was ok until they hit OW and became nervous.  But if they said nothing of their apprehension then that was the divers fault.  If they communicated their nervousness and the instructor did the dive anyway then that falls on the instructor.  Should the student become so nervous that the instructor feels additional time is needed, certification should be withheld until the training is complete.  If this results in the student losing interest or deciding not to dive it may be for the best.  In the long run it would be better for them to lose a little time and money as opposed to getting seriously injured or worse.  But once out of training it is the diver’s responsibility to dive or not dive.

When a diver, for whatever reason, elects to do a dive beyond their level of training and experience and this is known to the operator, DM, boat captain, or instructor who may be guiding but not instructing on the dive, they should not let the diver dive or insist that they be accompanied by a DM or other pro.  But even then, had the diver received proper training in the first place it is likely they would have enough sense to follow that training and not do the dive without making arrangements for further instruction or a guide.

The instructor is responsible for making sure that the diver knows exactly what could happen to him/her regardless if it results in a diver perhaps electing not to continue training.  If the diver does elect to go on then it should be made clear to them that they are responsible for all aspects of their diving from the time they receive their card.

The DM on the boat does not plan your dives.  They give a briefing on the site, emergency procedures, boat etiquette, and times allotted for the dive.  They may even get in the water.  Many times they do not.  In any case no matter what you may hear or assume, THE DM IS NOT RESPONSIBLE for keeping you safe!  Neither is your buddy!  You are.

If you are not comfortable with this stay out of the water!  If you are not comfortable with being responsible for yourself your training was seriously lacking, you were not paying attention in class, or you need more time in the pool and should not be diving in open water.  At this point it is your responsibility to go to the instructor and communicate your concerns.  Or to communicate to your buddy that you are not comfortable with the dive.  Choosing the right dive buddy is also your responsibility.  My buddy below I met the day before our ice dives but I knew by talking to her that we were going to be ok.  We had similar philosophies and were both experienced instructors.

It is my contention that once a diver is certified he/she is responsible for their own safety and then that of their buddy.  Divers look out for themselves so that they can look out for their buddy.  To turn students loose in the water less than capable, with the idea that they will find out they need more training and come back to learn what should be basic skills, is a disgrace and a clear demonstration of greed.  To certify less than capable divers with the idea that they will be diving with a DM/Guide/Instructor anyway is no less a travesty.

Dive ops that allow unqualified divers to do dives beyond their ability are a disgrace to the industry.  It would be better to choose more benign sites or require the divers pay for a personal guide or instructor than risk the headache of a coroner’s inquest or police investigation.  Not to mention the personal injury lawyers that seem to come out of the woodwork looking to make a quick buck from others tragedies.  Being that there really is no governing body that regulates the industry, and should not be, it is up to the industry itself to insure that ONLY properly trained and qualified people are in the water.

It is up to the diver to decide how much training they wish to get.  It is up to them to do some research to find the best fit for them.  They should spend at least as much time as they would choosing a new car.  It really does come down to the potential diver to decide what their life is worth.  And decide just how much training they feel is needed to preserve their safety.

And what are we doing when we dive? Playing in the water? Swimming around underwater without having to surface as often? Seeing cool new stuff? Doing something different than a lot of other people? Yes to all of this.  But we are also doing this.  We are entering an alien environment that is normally hostile to human life without mechanical means.  We cannot breathe underwater.  We rely on a few pieces of metal and plastic to keep us alive by allowing us to breathe a finite amount of air that we must also carry.  Sounds a little more serious that way doesn’t it.  Did your instructor point it out that way to you? Chances are they did not.  Why not? It might have caused you to rethink this whole business.  If so, GOOD!

This is not a game.  Your life depends on the training you receive, the decisions you make based on that training, and the decisions you make after training.  You, the diver are responsible for your own safety regardless of what anyone else says.  Your buddy could get lost, the DM may get hurt, lost, or busy with another diver.  If an issue occurs, no one but you will be there to save your ass! Think about that! You may need to save your own life.  If that does not make you rethink the idea of who is responsible for your safety you might want think about finding another activity.  It is not fair to your buddy, the DM, the captain, the op, or the resort to make them responsible for your life.

The boat is a taxi to get you to and from the site safely.  The driver is no more responsible for you when you step off than the taxi driver who drops you at a hotel.  You would not sue the taxi company if you exited the cab, walked into your destination, and fell down a flight of steps.

The op has no way of determining your comfort level in the water if they did not train you.  They assume since you have a card or a referral that you are ready to dive or do your checkouts.  If they want to take you to 100 feet on your first dives and you say ok and then die who is at fault? Did they hold a gun to your head and force you to dive? Did you exercise the option to say no that you can do at anytime? And the resort is a place to eat, sleep, and relax.  They have only your word that you are a qualified diver.

The cave community has rule that any diver can end a dive at any time with no explanation given.  Once the signal is given the dive is over.  Period.  End of discussion.  Too bad this is not passed on in many OW classes.  Peer pressure, money, wishing to not look bad, all seem to take the place of intelligence and common sense.  Divers seem to not realize how a new environment or type of dive can change things.  It has not been adequately instilled in them that this is serious business and not as easy as many of us make it appear.  Years of training and experience have taught us that nothing should be taken for granted.  Experienced divers know that no matter how many dives they have done, how many times they have been to the same site, or how many times they have made it home safe, there is always that one time where a small error in judgment, lack of attention to a particular detail, or a change in conditions may result in them being seriously injured or killed.

Good instructors make sure that this is part of the training of new divers.  Skills are done over and over until they become as much instinct as anything else.  My greatest reward as an instructor is to task a student and see them react to a distraction or outside stimulus as a minor inconvenience instead of a big problem to the skill they are doing.  I had a student go from being unable to breathe from a reg with their mask off, without water going up their nose, to doing a no mask swim two lengths of the pool and then do a scuba bailout with absolutely no issues at all.  This did not happen overnight and was the result of much hard work on their part, patience on mine, a clear understanding of the skill to be done and WHAT COULD HAPPEN if they were to have their mask kicked off at 50 feet and they freaked.  The last had the biggest effect in them working through the urge to freak and finding out it’s not that bad.  Once a break through such as this occurs the student inevitably makes progress at a faster rate.  Why? They have shown themselves that problems can be worked through when they have received the proper training, worked through an actual issue, and as a result have more confidence and are more comfortable in the water.

This is another diver responsibility.  Developing a sense of confidence and comfort.  These two items are essential to diver safety.  They are not usually immediate but developed over time through not only training but experience.  The diver has a responsibility to themselves to keep their skills current and their knowledge up to date.  Not only as regards diving, but their knowledge of dive sites, resorts, and operations should not be left to a third party.  Questions about safety, practices, procedures, and even staff should be the norm.  Management changes, staff rotations, new dive sites, and sometimes boats change from one year to the next.  Never take for granted that XYZ op is the same as it was last year.

To do so and then find out upon arrival that nothing is the same is not the resorts fault if it presents an inconvenience or challenge to the diver.  Dive planning, when taught properly, is not only about getting in the water.  It may involve the flight, the transportation to the resort, the hotel arrangements, etc.  You need to be aware of this and plan accordingly.

Confidence is gained by working thru task loading scenarios or situations by degree.  It is not to be confused with bravado.  One who does all the necessary checks, has the right equipment, and does a 100 foot dive right out of open water class is not confident- he is a fool.  This type of person has little regard for rules, recommended procedures and safety, and is a danger to himself and every diver in the area.  The diver who does all the same things BUT does the 100 foot after further training, making a number of dives to ever increasing depths over a period of time, and taking time to learn from those dives demonstrates true confidence based on training, experience, and knowledge of their abilities.  This is the kind of diver who other divers benefit from.  They also have gained the knowledge that gives them a sense of comfort and allows them to dive relaxed and in control.  As a result, by them taking responsibility for themselves they are more relaxed, more knowledgeable, and ultimately the kind of safe diver that others look to as examples of what to do right.

Taking responsibility for yourself therefore not only makes you safer but someone other divers enjoy diving with results in a true sense of accomplishment. For more on responsibility and buddy skills see my book: SCUBA: A Practical Guide for the New Diver which will be released in March of 2011 and be available from www.udmaquatics.com

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So you have the basics, what is next in term of gear purchasing? For many it’s a Buoyancy Compensator and Dive Regulator. The BC is a crucial piece of dive gear. It not only allows us to control our position but also holds the tank. BCs come in two different basic configurations. The jacket style generally has a bladder that wraps around the diver as it inflates while the back inflate has the bladder entirely on the back. The jacket style is the perhaps the most commonly seen in use by new divers. The back inflate is however very popular with many experienced divers. A jacket is shown on the left and a back inflate on the right.

The BC has an air cell to inflate and deflate, and accomplishes that via the power inflator. A BC power inflator is a device that is connected to the bladder by a corrugated hose. This hose generally is located on the left side and connects to the BC in the area of the shoulder, though some are connected in the center of the air cell. The power inflator is also connected to the tank by the regulator’s low pressure inflator hose. By pressing a button air is allowed to flow into the BC. Another button is used to control a valve that allows air to escape the BC. When venting or allowing the air to escape the BC, the inflator needs to be raised above the level of the connection to the BC or a trap – similar to that under your sink – is formed and the air cannot escape. Many BCs however also have additional valves known as dump valves to allow air to be vented without using the power inflator. When using the power inflator to vent, some models require the diver to get nearly vertical in the water. Dump valves are often located on the right shoulder and the bottom of the BC on either side, allowing the diver to vent air without getting vertical. BCs may have pockets, D rings, pouches to contain weights, and numerous buckles to hold things together. There are some BCs that have very little beyond a few d rings; these are known as minimalist or basic harness type BCs. Commonly referred to as “back plate and wing” BCs they are fully customizable in size, features, and function and also tend to cost much less than other BCs. They consist of a stainless steel, aluminum, or kydex plate, a simple one piece harness made of two inch nylon webbing, and a bladder (the wing) that is removable from the set up. Wings are available in different lifts to suit the type of dives, cylinder or cylinders used, and the amount of weight the diver requires. They commonly have three or four D rings, a buckle, and little or no extra padding, yet are very comfortable in the water. Some believe that back inflate BC’s tend to push a diver forward in the water. This is a myth. Back mounted BC’s on a properly weighted diver DO NOT push a diver face forward into the water.

Jacket Buoyancy Compensators are more commonly used and often have many “extras,” but this does not mean they are the best choice for every diver. Pockets often seem to be poorly designed and inconveniently placed. There are often more D rings than the three or four found useful by most divers or on some models none at all.

How then do we choose a BC? The priorities must be comfort, quality, and features specific to the needs and preferences of the individual diver. Price is not a reliable barometer of any of these, and paying more does not guarantee you a “better” BC. What matters is what the BC will do for you and how it will suit your needs.

What I look for in a BC is function and simple is better. Why? Because unnecessary complexity creates a more confusing piece of equipment, as well as creating too many potential failure points; it also involves unnecessary expense. There is simply no need for a diver to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a BC. That it will serve you for many years doing the types of dives you do, is the ultimate goal in selecting a BC or any other piece of gear for that matter.

Beware of claims that exotic BC features will make you a better diver. The only thing that will make you a better diver is good training and diving regularly. I can take any BC that I can get on –regardless of size, style, or configuration and within 10 minutes get horizontal and have full control over my buoyancy. This is the result of practice, experience, understanding the effects water has on me and my equipment, and proper weighting and trim. None of this is beyond the grasp of the average OW diver who wants to achieve this level of competence. A BC is a tool, and as with any tool, simple is usually better. The next items we’ll look at are dive regulators.

Dive Regulators

The item that allows us to breathe underwater was invented many years ago in a number of different forms. Regulators were used in industrial applications long before their relatively recent adaptation for underwater use in SCUBA. The modern SCUBA regulator is commonly attributed to two Frenchmen, Emile Gagnan and Jacques Cousteau. In the 1940s, they began to work on a design that allowed a diver to descend into the water and be supplied air at ambient pressure (i.e. as the water pressure increased the amount of air the regulator delivered also increased). This kept the pressure of the water from collapsing the diver’s chest cavity – a very good thing indeed! It also opened SCUBA to the average person. In the early days of diving, regulators (and most SCUBA gear) were sold in sporting good stores and through mail order. Dive shops were rare and training was done by ex-military divers or one bought a book, ordered the gear, got air from somewhere, and went diving! Things are arguably much better now.

Those early regulators were of the double hose design (above) made famous by shows such as Sea Hunt. They worked well and were the most common type in use until the single hose we know today came into regular use in the 1950’s. The single hose regulator is commonly divided into two basic types: the piston and the diaphragm. Each of them has subtypes known as balanced and unbalanced. The balanced regulator basically delivers air at the same rate regardless of the pressure in the tank. Unbalanced regulators tend to get stiffer or breather harder as the tank pressure drops. What concerns us in this work is what reg do we really need and why.

A complete regulator set consists of several parts: the first stage, second stage (there are commonly two of them, a primary and an alternate), the submersible pressure gauge (SPG), and a low pressure (LP) inflator hose. Each of these plays a vital role in breathing underwater. We’ll look at each of them in turn and then try to offer some advice on choosing a set.

The function of the first stage is to reduce the high air pressure in the tank to what is known as an intermediate pressure and distribute it to the other components in the regulator set. This intermediate pressure varies from regulator to regulator but is usually in the 135 – 145 PSI range. This is the pressure that is sent to each second stage and the LP inflator hose. The SPG receives the full pressure in the tank though it is restricted by a much smaller diameter orifice in the first stage and at the gauge itself. The hoses to each component that receive the intermediate pressure are of the same type and have the same size fitting at the first stage. The high pressure (HP) hose to the SPG usually has a larger diameter fitting. This is purposely done to avoid putting a low pressure hose on the high pressure side that would result in a rather spectacular failure of the hose and possible injury to those nearby. The second stage on many regulators is a demand lever type. The user inhales or pushes the purge button and the diaphragm collapses onto the lever, allowing air to enter the chamber and be inhaled. The first stage responds to depth and pressure and by way of the demand valve in the second stage, delivers a proper volume of air as depth increases or decreases. Many second stages have adjustment knobs that will allow the diver to fine tune the amount of air they receive and/or vary the inhalation effort required to depress the lever. While a very nice and convenient feature, it is not absolutely necessary for the average recreational diver to have. It adds to the cost of the unit and for the casual diver, makes no real difference over a well – tuned, non – adjustable one.

The primary second stage (the one in the diver’s mouth), often has adjustment knob and a lever known as a venturi lever that is open or closed. Open, the venturi lever allows air to flow unobstructed to the diver. Closed, it deflects some of that air back up against the diaphragm making it harder to depress and accidentally cause a free flow.

The LP inflator hose has a quick disconnect fitting that attaches to the low pressure inflator on the BC; it allows the diver to add air to the BC. With some exceptions, these are standard connections. Non – standard connections are used on BCs that have a different type of inflator, known as an integrated alternate, integrated octo (short for octopus), or integrated safe second.

These inflator mechanisms combine a secondary breathing regulator with the power inflator. Hoses on these regulators have fittings that will only fit those mechanisms. The integrated octo is the subject of much debate. It does eliminate a hose from the regulator, which theoretically improves streamlining. It is also said to be easy to locate at the end of the power inflator. However, it also requires the donor in a low or out – of – air situation to donate the primary. There is nothing wrong with that for those who have been well trained in donating in that manner.

The problem is that many, if not most, new divers are not trained that way; they have been taught using standard setups that have a separate octo. If you choose a BC with a non standard inflator as described above, it is completely reasonable to ask the shop to provide instruction in the water on its use. If they refuse, walk away. Do not attempt to use or purchase one of these units without instruction. You must control your buoyancy while donating, and for one trained on a standard set up this means venting while ascending. To vent with one of these units while breathing from the secondary, you’ll have to remove it from your mouth repeatedly or use the shoulder dump on the opposite side (if the BC has one). This is not something one wants to do in a stressful situation without being completely comfortable in doing so. I do not recommend these units to my students and I will not permit them in my Advanced Open Water class without seeing the diver use it. There are some class exercises in which this type of unit cannot physically be used at all. Another issue with these BC/regulator combinations is that if the diver decides to travel with one, it is also advisable to also take a spare hose for the integrated alternate because if that hose fails it may be difficult to find a replacement at the travel destination. It is advisable in any case to have a spare standard inflator hose for the regulator normally used with the BC equipped with this unit. In the event that the diver is unable to use their BC they can still use their regulator with a BC equipped with a standard inflator. If this is the case they will still need to have a standard octo that they can put on the regulator or be fully familiar with buddy breathing as they no longer are able to use the integrated second stage that is still attached to their own BC. I personally see too many unnecessary issues that can develop with the use of the integrated octo to make it a viable alternative.

While no part of the regulator is more important than another as they are all vital, the Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG) is the most important gauge one can have. It tells you how much air is in your tank. In the early days of SCUBA, divers did not use them; they had another mechanism that indicated when they were running low on air. Called a “J” valve, it had a lever that functioned as a reserve supply. In the up position this lever gave the diver roughly 300 PSI of air that could be used for the ascent. The issue with these valves was that if the lever got hit or accidentally tripped, the diver might not know it! When the regulators began to breathe stiffer – indicating the air supply was getting low – the diver would reach back and pull down on the steel rod connected to the lever on the valve. With the valve already tripped, the diver had no reserve and had to make what could be too rapid an ascent to the surface, or hope a buddy was close enough to donate for a safe ascent. The SPG was a major step in resolving this issue.

The SPG is a simple device; it measures the pressure in the tank and indicates the reading on a dial, in most cases. While there are digital gauges available, including ones integrated into the dive computer, they offer no additional benefit but do add an additional potential failure point, as they are dependent on batteries. SPGs often indicate pressures up to 5000 PSI and 4000 PSI gauges are common. They are relatively maintenance – free other than rinsing, and changing the O rings in the connection to the hose. As with any mechanical device they can fail, especially if water accidentally gets into them via the first stage and is not removed before the regulator was re-pressurized. In such a case the gauge can be destroyed and the diver put at great risk. Anytime an SPG begins to act strangely it should be replaced. Gauges can be had from $40 to $80 depending on quality. Spend the money; your life is worth much more than that.

We’ve now looked at the essential parts of the modern SCUBA regulator and have briefly described their function. If you want to buy one, what should you look for? First of all, how much do you realistically have to spend? Do you want a piston or diaphragm? For the average recreational diver, it really makes no difference no matter what the shop may tell you. Balanced or unbalanced? This one can make a difference. A balanced unit will deliver the same volume of air with the same effort no matter what the depth may be or how low the tank gets. This is important in my opinion, as it eliminates one potential cause of diver stress (i.e. variable breathing effort). Anything that does that is good, so a balanced one it is!

The next consideration is the water temperature where the diver expects to dive. Warm water (for most regulators this is defined as above 40 degrees Fahrenheit) makes no real difference. Colder or cold water does. Some regulators are not designed to be used in cold water and should not be, due to freeze – ups. Diaphragm regulators tend to be more resistant to this, so if it’s the Great Lakes or deep inland quarries, a sealed diaphragm makes the most sense. Another factor to consider is water quality. Some regulators are known as environmentally sealed, in that no water or other contaminants get into the first stage at all. Some allow water into parts of the first stage. No special unit is required for diving in warm, fresh water that is relatively clean, or for saltwater when the unit will always be carefully rinsed. If there is a lot of sediment in the water or other gunk that could cause a problem, a sealed regulator is called for whether piston or diaphragm. For the strictly warm – water diver who takes good care of their gear, most any first stage will be more than adequate. For anything else, I’d personally only choose an environmentally sealed first stage of the diaphragm type.

Now, what second stages should we consider? The temperature of the water continues to have some influence here. For cold water, I like the adjustable second stage that helps to regulate the amount of air I can get at one time. It reduces the chance of a free – flow due to the first stage freezing as a result of too much air being delivered. In warm water, I use both adjustable and non adjustable second stages. One feature I also look for in a second stage is whether I can disassemble the stage underwater to clear it of anything that might get inside it; all of my personal regulators enable me to do this. I have seen dirt, twigs, and other stuff get into a regulator; being able to fix that without surfacing is convenient, while preventing the need for the diver to surface. The next item to consider is the mouthpiece. There are many choices and no diver should have to deal with an uncomfortable one. There are even custom ones that can be molded to the diver’s mouth. The mouthpiece should be comfortable enough to allow the diver to do a dive of any length with no jaw pain or fatigue.

It might seem prudent to save a few dollars by buying an alternate second stage (octo) that is cheaper than the primary; after all it will hardly ever be used. However, when it is used it will be during a high stress situation (you are donating to an out of air diver) and that is not the time to be dealing with inferior equipment. The octo should be of equal quality to the primary. You should be able to adjust or detune it enough to prevent it from free – flowing and still deliver an adequate volume of air. Again I do recommend that divers choose a standard octo over the integrated type. There is less maintenance involved, they are most likely what you were trained with, and usually they do cost less than the integrated. Standard octos can also be used on most BC’s the diver will ever rent or borrow. The brief summary on second stages is this: For warm water, any second stage of reasonable quality will do. For colder water you should get an adjustable second that can be disassembled under water. Match either with a standard octo of equal quality.

The LP hose is a simple matter of finding one that is the right length for the BC one is using. It should also have the correct connector for the LP inflator. Remember that if the hose has been used on a BC with an integrated inflator it most likely will not work on a standard BC. A second LP hose can be added if one chooses to get a dry suit. This will be connected to the inflator valve on the suit.

The high pressure hose and SPG are the last parts of the regulator that we need to look at. The most common configuration new divers are likely to be exposed to is the console set up. The console will always include at least the SPG and a depth gauge or dive computer. There may also be a compass. If you do plan on getting a console setup, make sure it is organized in the way that suits you best. If it has a compass, try to get a console that will allow you to see both the compass and the depth gauge at the same time; some do not and make it difficult to successfully navigate a course. When choosing a hose length, select one that allows you to easily lift the gauge to see it yet without excess length to get in the way otherwise.

To sum up about dive regulators: For warm water dives any regulator (piston or diaphragm), by any major manufacturer will be completely satisfactory. There is no need for a warm – water diver to spend extra money for a cold – water regulator. An environmentally sealed first stage is always a good option though. For cold water divers, the best choice would be an environmentally sealed, diaphragm first stage, coupled with an adjustable second stage to lessen the chance of a free – flow. For both setups I recommend a standard octo rather than an integrated one. Most new divers are trained with the standard setup and if you are partnered with a new buddy it will lessen or eliminate any confusion in a low on or out of air situation. Finally choose a console if not going with wrist mounted gauges – that will allow you to view the compass and depth gauge at the same time. For more in depth information on choosing equipment watch for my new book that will be available in the spring of 2011. “SCUBA: A Practical Guide for New Divers” will be available on disc, pdf download, Kindle, and in limited print editions.

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Generally scuba diving is not considered a dangerous sport. Of course, it’s a bit riskier than, for example, tennis or golf, but it’s far safer than zip lining or parachute jumping. Today you can easily find good modern scuba diving equipment that is reliable and will protect you from many dangers. Add the proper training, responsibility and sensibility – and you’ve almost nothing to be afraid of.

But of course, there are some dangers and risks involved in scuba diving. Some of those dangers lie within the diver, and the others lie the ocean and the environment. It’s very important to be informed about those risks and dangers and learn the ways to avoid them. Here are some tips that can help you:

1. Learn as much as you can about underwater, about the marine life in the area and about all possible dangers. Current info about weather forecast and the water conditions will also be very useful.

2. Diving alone isn’t quite a good idea, so it’s always better to dive with an experienced partner.

3. Always plan your dive ahead, and do everything according to your plan.

4. Check all your equipment before diving, make sure everything works properly. When everything is checked, recheck it.

5. Never drink alcohol before diving. It can cause many problems by affecting your blood pressure and your ability to think clearly.

6. If you have any health problems or are taking any medicine, consult your doctor before diving and dive only if the doctor says it’s safe for you.

7. Don’t hold your breath while diving. Try to breathe normally and descend slowly. Fast breathing can also harm you and your lungs.

8. Don’t panic under water. If any problem occurs, try to calm down and analyze everything. You can also ask your partner for help (that’s why I said it’s good to dive with a partner).

9. Many people think sharks are the main danger under water. It’s not really so, since shark attacks on divers are very, very rare, and if you dive in safe areas, you’ll probably be OK.

10. Never touch unknown plants, coral reefs or animals – they can be poisonous. If you get scratched or bitten by some animal or fish, return to the surface immediately and turn to a doctor.

11. If you’re not feeling well after diving, go to a doctor at once.

12. After diving, don’t fly for at least 12-24 hours.

There are many other dangers under water, so you should read as much as you can to keep your information up-to-date. Remember, most problems, injuries and deaths happen to those who were not well educated and were not ready to face the problems.

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There are some who say that all Open Water courses are basically the same. The fact is that they are not. There are major differences in a number of programs. You need to be honest with yourself and decide just how knowledgeable and skilled you wish to be at the end of your first class. If you want to be led around by a DM or Guide and not take responsibility for yourself there are a number of classes where you would be taught just enough to do this. These classes are quick, allow you to do mostly self study, or be taught by a program on a computer. You will have minimal face time with an instructor and receive just enough skills to survive under water. If you wish to do more than just be led around then you need to find a class that provides more than simple survival skills.

If you want to learn to dive my recommendation  is to find a class that will give you all the skills to safely plan, execute, and return from a dive with a buddy of equal skill and training and no professional in the water. You would be able to do this in conditions equal to or better than that in which you have been trained. It should give you the skills to assist another diver should something go wrong and help you develop your sense of responsibility to yourself and your buddy. Finally it should give you the confidence and judgment to know when a dive is beyond your skill, training, and experience and to call the dive should those conditions arise. The photo below shows conditions where the new OW diver would be better off calling the dive!

The class should contain all the elements that will fulfill these requirements. The class should begin with making sure you are comfortable in the water and most importantly can swim! This sounds obvious but there are some classes that allow divers to complete swim requirements wearing mask, snorkel, and fins. This is not swimming. Some say divers don’t need to know how to swim because they will have all that gear on. I find that a very dangerous attitude to take regarding swimming skills. Anyone who is going to be in, or for that matter, around water should know how to swim.

The class should include instruction in skin diving and snorkeling. It should cover kicks, mask clearing, snorkel clearing, and at least two types of skin dives. It should allow for practice time using these techniques. During this time it should also include instruction in and the use of proper buddy procedures. This is done by pairing students up and insisting they remain together during every exercise to reinforce the idea that when one is diving with a buddy they need to stay with them.

The classroom associated with this should introduce the student to basic diving history, the equipment used in snorkeling and skin diving, and a discussion about basic physics and physiology. Following this an introduction to the equipment of SCUBA should take place.

The next session in the pool is when they are introduced to SCUBA. It should start by first determining how much weight they need in whatever exposure suit they are wearing. The instructor should not be overweighting students for. Next the student should be introduced to breathing through the regulator on the surface. From this point on all skills are built upon each other. The pool session should focus on diver safety and comfort. This is done by taking basic skills and reinforcing them through practice and by adding to them. Increased task loading builds comfort and confidence while at the same time adding to the safety of the diver and of their buddy.

The classroom is where dive theory is passed on and explained. In my opinion this necessitates face to face discussion. Having a student take a book home, read it, and answer a few questions only to spend a few minutes reviewing them is not education. It is memorization and parroting what was in the book. The student may or may not get all the info but if not and they miss a detail that is not covered at a later time it could come back to hurt them later. When I have a student in front of me and am able to see their face and their eyes I get immediate feedback. I know if they are getting the material. I see the lights come and by the same token can see when they dim and I know that we need to slow down, stop, or review the material. Self study material should reinforce the material taught and prepare the student for the next session. It should not replace actual lectures and face to face discussions.

Many times students do not meet the instructor until the actual start of the class. Other classes may have more than one instructor teaching different portions of the course. If the instructors are not effectively communicating for any reason, content can be duplicated or even omitted. This is even more of an issue when it comes to pool training, especially during the first few sessions. Every instructor has their own style and methods for teaching the exact same skill. To start off one way and then have to switch to a different way is not a problem for students who are completely comfortable in the water and with the skill. For the student who has any kind of issue with basic skills this could prove to be a serious problem. My own experience tells me that the same successful approach to a skill for five people may not work with the sixth one. Often it has been necessary to modify the approach and even spend one on one time with a student in a private. In my classes one of the most important skills that I have seen students need this is in mask clearing.

Some OW instructors are satisfied when a student is able to perform this skill successfully one time. Not all new open water students are expected to perform the skill once and move on to something else. Some classes have students repeat skills over and over every session. They also add other tasks to be performed while doing the basic skill. This has the effect of getting a student comfortable with the skill in a number of different situations. My own class has students clearing and removing and replacing the mask at least 20 times before we get to open water. And this not the only skill this is done with. By the time students get to open water they should be able to perform all basic skills at any time during the checkout dives. And they should be able to do this while swimming, hovering, and not breaking trim.

This is the kind of training that makes SCUBA diving a much more enjoyable venture for everyone. When looking for a training course there should be a focus on courses that offer plenty of time to learn skills and time to practice them in the pool. A course that offers to get you through in four to six hours in the pool does not allow much time to just swim around and practice those new skills; especially if there are more than a couple people in the class because each skill takes time for each diver to perform. Class size is another factor to consider. Smaller classes insure that students have plenty of time to just swim and practice the new skills before moving on to something new and that’s the right way to learn to dive.

When selecting an initial certification class ask yourself what you plan to get out of it. Do you want to be able to dive with confidence and skill? Do you want to be able to plan a dive, dive that plan, and safely return from that dive on your own? Do you want to be able to go anywhere within the limits of your training and experience and not have to rely on someone else to keep you safe? Or is it enough that you receive the bare minimum necessary to survive underwater while under supervision? If so are you okay with hiring a private guide or Dive Master to watch over you? Because as we have seen earlier this is the only way you can insure that they will be looking after you and you alone. Are you also okay with the idea that if something happens to them that you may have to look after yourself and perhaps even rescue the guide? This is a very real possibility. And finally are you again okay with the idea that you are literally putting your life in the hands of a stranger? If you are ok with all of these things- I personally would never be- then by all means take the quick and easy course. However if you want to be responsible for yourself and perhaps your loved ones, determine how, when, where you will dive, and be assured in the knowledge that you can handle most any issue that comes up then I strongly suggest that you look into a comprehensive course that will contain all the knowledge and skills necessary to do those things. You may need to do some research to find them but they do exist and are readily available to those who wish to be safe, confident, and skilled divers who do not need to be watched over. I strongly encourage every diver- and diver to be – to do some research before signing up for an Open Water class. As I stated earlier not all training classes are the same. You will encounter other divers and even instructors who will tell you that the basic class of every agency has all the necessary information and training a new diver needs. And to an extent that is true. Where the truth takes a side road is when you start to determine what those entry level classes prepare you for. Do you want to be led or do you want to lead? I want to lead.

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Choosing an Instructor- They do work for you!

Many people choose an dive instructor with less thought than they give in choosing a new television. My question is why? A television does not hold your life in its hands. The instructor you choose in all reality does. Some do not even have a choice of who the instructor will be. They sign up with a large shop and the shop assigns the students to whoever has the next class. No pre-class interview, no quick personality check to see if they mesh well, and no opportunity for the dive instructor to assess the fitness and interests of the student. I, for the life of me, cannot fathom why anyone would accept this. When choosing an instructor you need to understand that what you are doing is hiring an employee. You are the employer not the shop, not the agency, not the dive resort. You are employing this person to teach you to survive in an environment that is hostile to human life. Why would you not put some serious thought into this? Why would you not interview this person and ask questions of him or her. Every agency has good instructors, great instructors, and some that are neither. So how do you find them? Here are a few things to consider. First of all how did you hear of them? Was it an ad in the phonebook, on line, or from a friend? All of which are good ways of finding an instructor but most times they don’t give a lot of information. Were you able to find reviews of the shop or its personnel? With the internet this is often possible. Are you able to talk to former students and get their impressions? An instructor who has nothing to hide or fear has no problem contacting former students and getting their permission to use them as references. If you go through a shop and they assign the instructor can you interview them first? If not, why not are you able to meet them before paying any money? If you can and they do not seem like a good fit can you change instructors? All of these should factor into your decision. Once you have satisfied yourself with these questions what should you ask of the instructor? Bearing on my own experience as a student and now as an instructor I can give you a list of questions. You may have others you wish to ask or there may be some on the list you may not wish to use. All of that is fine as long as you end up with an instructor who is a good fit, knows what they are doing, puts your interests first, and will give you the skills and knowledge necessary to dive safely and independently. So here are some questions to ask and why.

1. How long have you been teaching? A new instructor is not necessarily a bad thing. They may be up on the latest trends in teaching and have recent knowledge of new theories and science. An instructor who has been teaching a long time may be set in their ways and teaching out of routine. They do however bring many years of experience to the table. This leads to question 2.
2. How many places have you been diving? Why ask this? Simple really, divers – including instructors – are more likely to be better divers if they have a broad range of experience and are well versed in local diving. You would not want an instructor who has never been in cold water to teach you to dive in Minnesota in a drysuit! If you are going to dive in the Caribbean you would want someone who has experienced saltwater to teach you as opposed to one who has never been out of the lake or quarry.
3. When was the last time you were diving? I try to get into the water at least once a month. Year round. It does not always work that way but just like any diver an instructor needs to practice skills as much as anyone.
4. How often do you dive for fun? Several years ago I nearly gave up the professional route due to burn out. The only dives I was doing as a Divemaster were training dives for several months. No time to relax and just have fun. It became less and less enjoyable. I took a break. I stopped assisting with classes and just dove for fun. I took some classes of my own to expand my knowledge and skills in technical diving disciplines. I was recharged and realized that I did enjoy teaching and passing on my love of diving to others. BUT it had to be tempered with time for myself as well.
5. Do you dive with students after class has ended? The good instructor has no qualms diving with students they have trained and at no charge to the student. I want them to come on dives with me and other students. They set an example of divers who are actively diving and enjoying it.
6. Do you teach the panic cycle? Panic can kill a diver. It is brought on by stress. Stress is created by a diver being uncomfortable with a given situation. This feeling can be minimized by addressing the causes in confined water and in the classroom. In so doing the various stress triggers can be pointed out and ways of dealing with them passed on. This is called breaking or interrupting the panic cycle. Not every course offers this critical piece of education and it should be determined if the instructor does offer it.
7. Is your class schedule set or flexible? In some cases the schedule is set by the shop. This may work for some people. But I have found that many students require more flexibility due to work, school, kids, or all of the above. Many independent instructors can tailor classes around the students schedule at little or no extra cost.
8. What agency do you issue certifications through? While most all agencies are recognized around the world there are some that are better known. And not just because of size. Some agencies have a reputation for producing skilled divers who need little or no supervision. Others do not have the same reputation. In addition there are agencies that do not teach all that others do to open water students. Their courses are not as comprehensive and leave out what some consider to be essential skills and knowledge.
9. How much time is required for the course? A comprehensive course cannot and should not be taught in two weekends.
10. What equipment do you provide and what do I as the student need to supply? Some courses supply all gear while others require the students to supply things like mask, snorkel, fins and boots. The shop I work with allows students to try out those items in the pool before they buy them. There is no reason to spend money on gear that you soon find out does not fit or is not quite right for your style of diving. We have different fins, masks, snorkels, and boots all in the pool area for students to use and determine what is best for them.
11. Where do you do your checkout dives? Most instructors and shops have certain sites they use for checkouts. Some are free, others are not. You need to ask if you will be responsible for any entry or boat fees.
12. Do you have references – former students that I can talk to? More than one is preferable.
13. Can I sit in on a class or pool session? If the instructor has a class going on they should have no problem with you sitting in or observing a class.
14. What methods do you use to teach proper weighting? They should not be overweighting students
15. Do they teach skin diving skills? One of the most basic things for building comfort in the water is to teach students basic swimming and skin diving skills. In fact a good class will make sure that students are comfortable in the water by using the swimming and skin diving portion to gauge their comfort level.
16. How many people will be in the class? This is important because the more students in a class the less individual attention. Even if the instructor has certified assistants he or she is still responsible for your instruction. In addition a large class often leaves less time for students to just swim around and get comfortable with new skills.
17. Will I have time to just swim and practice the skills we learn? If the instructor goes through the skills, has the student do them, and then moves on to something else with no practice time it is often not sufficient to make the student fully comfortable and confident with what they are doing. Practice time is essential.
18. Do you teach skills kneeling or will we be doing them horizontal? This is another important point to clarify since divers do not dive in a vertical position. There is a small but growing trend to get divers out of the “praying I survive this” position as I call it. Basic skills are easier in a horizontal position and it does in fact create less stress on the diver if they are not falling over backwards. My own OW class and classes I assisted with before adopting the horizontal training methods invariably had students trying to kneel in the water with SCUBA gear on. Already nervous people were trying to kneel with gear on and some were flailing about trying to stay upright. This resulted is some getting upset enough to come close to bolting for the surface. I have found that if students on SCUBA are taught to descend horizontally from the beginning this stress trigger is much lessened or even eliminated.
19. Some other questions you need to ask can also include more in-depth question about what courses they offer, how they are taught, if classroom is involved or if you have to “teach yourself” the theory behind the dives and why they are done? Students who are paying for education should receive an education. From an instructor. They should not be at home teaching themselves the theory.
20. As you ask these question pay attention to the answers you get and more importantly how you get them. None of these questions are out of line. The instructor should be more than willing to answer all of them patiently and completely. He should also be willing to allow you to compare his course with others in the area. I have in my library the standards for 6 different agencies – any student or potential student is welcome to see them at any time and compare them with the instruction they are receiving from me.

Again, remember that what you are doing is indeed hiring an employee; an employee that is working for you. If you are interviewing an instructor to teach you and your children or just your children there may be even more questions. And there should be. Not everyone is good with kids. They can have special challenges – shorter attention spans, less tolerance to cold, they may tire more easily, and these all need to be considered. I actually plan on extra class and pool time when teaching kids just to address these issues. In short when choosing an instructor or class put the same effort into it that you would if you were hiring an employee. They really are working for you.

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What Is Freediving?

Freediving is the act of diving down under the surface of water with no air source, ie holding you breath. Freediving is at once the logical evolution of snorkelling, the predecessor of scuba and its own separate entity. It’s not correct to see freediving as just another term for snorkelling because, as we’ll discuss later, freediving is a different way to enjoy water, with its own goals, techniques and community. Freediving is a sport, hobby, competition, keep fit regime and cheap way to enjoy the coral – it can be all of these things and more but it does tend towards the sport side of things because freedivers are, for lack of a better term, competitive. A freediver will compare and brag about the depths that they have achieved, along with their breath hold times and the booty they’ve collected. They are going down deep with nothing more than a mask, a pair of fins and a lung full of air, yet they achieve some awesome depths and shocking bottom times. It would be wrong to say that freediving is just a breath-holding competition (though it sometimes works like that) because many freedivers are simply after the same things as a scuba diver, they just want to enjoy it their way.

Freedivers Are Often Down There For The Same Reasons As The SCUBA Guys, They Just Don't Want To Do It With A Tank.

Why Freedive?

The question we must next ask is” “what is their way”? Freediving is a rapidly expanding and evolving sport that has captured the imaginations of the extreme sport crowd. This has meant that a very large body of young, healthy men and, to a slightly lesser extent, women are grabbing masks and going deep. This new influx of thrill-seekers has brought with it a new set of priorities and techniques to help these sportsmen and women achieve their personal goals. Some of those goals are listed below:

• Challenging – This is the main reason why freediving is considered a sport rather than a pastime. Freedivers are constantly striving to beat others on a whole new set of measurable objectives. On top of this battle with others they aim to beat their own personal bests – freedivers are their own toughest competition! They prepare themselves to push their bodies to the limit so that they can take on and surmount a challenge which gives them a rush and rewards them with great satisfaction.
• Risk – This follows on from the point above because the only thing that can make a challenge really exciting is if there is some risk that you will fail. If the act of failing is dangerous then it adds yet another element of thrill to the pursuit. A large portion of freedivers are adrenaline junkies which propels them on to take more risk so they can get a more intense buzz. This can be a dangerous cycle to be stuck in, but we’ll look at the dangers later.
• Requires Little Training – This is a double edged sword in that freediving is amazingly easy to pick up – just hold your breath and swim down…viola, you’re a freediver! However, this is only safe when you are just playing at shallow depths, if you plan on getting into the sport properly then it would be wise to look into the procedures to freedive effectively and safely – it’s not as simple as you might think.
• Free – I’m not sure how many people have complained to me that they’d love to learn to dive but their budgets don’t stretch to the expensive courses and the prohibitive price of dive gear. For those people who desperately want to explore the sea then freediving offers a different (inexpensive) path to the aquatic adventures they desire.
• Hunting/Foraging – This is an interesting development in the sport; clearly the freedivers were not content to simply pit their bodies against the sea, they had to also challenge the fauna that resides there too. Freedivers have made an entire subdivision of their activity devoted to either catching game fish or collecting molluscs. This added challenge and skill to learn (not to mention the machismo involved in using spear guns and knifes to hunt things) has made the sport even more attractive to the young male group.

• 

  Everybody Knows That The Key Way To Make A Pastime Even Better Is To Introduce Guns!

• Adventure – This is probably a universal aspect of underwater based pursuits, from snorkelling to tec diving – everyone wants to experience an environment they aren’t familiar with. This is no different with freedivers, they want to immerse themselves in the surroundings and appreciate what the sea has to offer.

Freediving Vs Snorkelling

You might be sitting there thinking: “yes, ok so it’s not scuba diving, but it looks a lot like snorkelling to me!”. And you’d be right but for a couple of minor differences. First off, snorkelling is usually a passive engagement with the underwater domain which means that a snorkeler simply peers into the world of coral and fish from the surface (almost like a voyeur). Whereas a freediver will actively seek out the things he wishes to see, hunt or challenge. The freediver will feel a tangible sense of pride in his activities of the day (beating his best depth, hauling up a big fish or spotting a big ray) but a snorkeler simply enjoys the view – they will certainly enjoy it but they probably won’t feel proud of their achievements.

Freediving Equipment

Freediving, at first glance, would appear like the kind of sport that shunned equipment. The very essence of freediving is the challenge of using what you were born with to beat the trials of the sea. Yet, there is a very quickly growing market of equipment to fill the gear bags of freedivers (so much for being cheap!):

• Freedive Fins – As with any young specialised sport the first freedivers used normal dive fins to get them where they wanted to go, but fin manufacturers saw that there was a market developing and created fins that were specially designed for freediving. These fins are usually full-foot pocket fins (wear them like slippers over a bare foot) with very long flexible blades. These comically long blades give fantastic speed and acceleration but would be almost useless to a scuba diver because they’d constantly bang them off coral and wrecks etc. The other avenue to go down when selecting freedive fins is to pick a mono-fin, which is basically a short wide blade with two foot pockets. It turns the wearer into something of a mermaid!
  

  There Are Many Types Of Freedive Fin, Some Are Long Fins, Others Are Wide Mono-Fins, They Are Great For Speed, Terrible For Walking!

• Watertight Mask – The inclusion of the word “watertight” might seem a little odd here being as all masks are meant to be watertight. The reason I mention it here is because a freediver doesn’t have an air source which means that when they exhale they don’t have very long before they require a breath. This prohibits the clearing of masks underwater, which is unlike a scuba diver because he can clear his mask as much as necessary. A freediver must find the perfect mask to ensure they don’t end up blind halfway through a descent.
• Snorkel – This is not a vital piece of gear but it makes the experience more fun in two ways; it lets the diver keep him head in the water constantly which is useful for tracking a buddy’s progress, swimming to and from the shore or boat, scoping out new dive sites and hunting fish from the surface. The second use for a snorkel is when the sea gets choppy, sometimes it’s tough to keep your mouth from being sprayed with salt water – a snorkel with a splash guard will help in this situation enormously.
• Torch – A torch is really useful to a freediver who is hunting shelled creatures as they often hide in holes and other inconvenient places. Especially when there might be a Moray eel in that hole, you can check before you start putting your hand in! A torch can also help in poor viz, though I strongly recommend you don’t freedive in water that you can’t see the bottom and surface at the same time (if you want to go ten meters deep – make sure the viz is ten meters plus).
• Knife – I have always been a promoter of dive knifes as safety tools – I’m doubly passionate about freedivers wearing easy to access knives. If you get caught in kelp in scuba, you can take your time and free yourself. If you get stuck in kelp or rope on the ascent of a deep freedive then you my only have seconds to free yourself. A large portion of freedivers have a knife anyway to use as a prying tool for shelled prey.
• Spear Gun – This is obviously only for our testosterone-filled hunters but it’s an interesting piece of gear. A spear gun can be spring-loaded or gas propelled, and usually has a tether from the spear to the gun (lightweight line on a free-spinning spool). This makes finding a wayward spear much more likely and allows you to reel in your catch. They are real killing weapons and so should be given the same reverence as a gun on the surface. Never joke around with it, and be absolutely sure that there’s not a diver/snorkeler/coral reef behind what you’re shooting at. If the viz is not great, then don’t go shooting – you wouldn’t shoot a shotgun in a park in the fog!
• Buoy Float – As a freediver you probably won’t have any form of buoyancy compensator like a scuba diver has. Often you will be neutrally weighted with a weight belt. This means that if you have just been on a scarily deep dive in which you almost didn’t make it to the surface, when you reach the surface you will have to tread water to stay afloat. If you compound this with a long swim from the shore, an hour of freediving and fighting a current then you will realise that you will need something to collapse on after the dive. Ideally you’d have a boat to get onto, but freedivers usually stray from the beaten path where no dive tours operate. In which case a prudent freediver tows a surface buoy with him, he can use the buoy to warn boats that he is in the area (he surfaces a lot more than a scuba diver – making him at more risk of getting the hull of a boat in the face). It also gives him a rest between dives, gives him a place to store gear and his catch. He can also anchor it and use the line as a reference.
• Weights – If you are like me and are very positively buoyant on the surface, or wear a thick exposure suit, then you will require either loads of effort to swim down or you will use a weight belt to get yourself neutrally buoyant. Remembering that you might wish to perform an intricate task on the bottom means that you have no option but to ensure neutral buoyancy prior to the dive as it gives you much more control over your position in the water. Don’t overweight yourself either because this could lead to a difficulty in staying afloat on the surface.
  

  This Clever Belt Has Both Weights And A Built In Buoyancy Compensator Which Is Fed From A Small Bottle Of Compressed Gas.

Tips and Tricks

These are a few of the freediving techniques and dangers that you may not be aware of, or are only partially informed about. This list is not exhaustive and if you wish to undertake freediving as a serious sport then I suggest that you do further research and seek out professional tuition.

Hyperventilation

Hyperventilation is the act of “over breathing” (rapidly breathing three or four very deep breaths before descending) in order to purge the body of carbon dioxide. This process works to extend a diver’s breath hold time because the body stimulates the breathing process when it detects that there is too much carbon dioxide in the blood. It is not because the body thinks there is not enough oxygen, this is a misconception.

This process must be used in moderation, a diver must not take more than four breaths before the dive because if he exceeds this number then he runs the risk of “shallow water blackout” (SWB). SWB occurs when a diver has hyperventilated excessively and then descended deep. Once the diver is down at his maximum depth his body is able to access plentiful oxygen (because the oxygen gets pressurised) from the lung of air. The diver’s body, because of the extra hyperventilation, doesn’t stimulate the breathing reflex, so the diver thinks he’s got plenty of time left. The problem arises as he ascends because the oxygen becomes harder to access (it reduces in pressure) which means there is a shortage in oxygen. The diver is not aware of this (because the body monitors carbon dioxide, not oxygen) and so he is prone to spontaneous and immediate blackouts as he reaches shallow water. This is obviously very dangerous because he is underwater and will quickly drown. It is even worse when he is weighted because he may not float to the surface.

The way to avoid this is by limiting yourself to only three to four breaths before the dive, don’t overdo it in the pursuit of the motherload of abalone!

Look Where You’re Going!

This is might seem a little patronising at first, but it is with good cause that I implore every freediver to pay good attention to where they are going. The reason for this is that a freediver is on a running clock when he dives. This time limit causes some careless freedivers to bolt down to the bottom, with their massive fins and weight belt, in poor viz and crack their skull on a rock or piece of coral. The same is true for the guys who cut their dive a little close and have to rush to the surface for air, they rarely think about boats, or swimmers that might be above them – and head butting a boat is not enjoyable. A scuba diver can take their time when they move underwater, which means they are less likely to bump into a jellyfish’s tentacles, piece of coral or rock but a freediver needs to be more focused because of the speed of their movements.

Pressure Related Injuries

Despite freediving not requiring any formal training to enjoy, there are a few very important risks that apply equally for a scuba diver and a freediver:

• Ear Barotrauma – Despite a freediver having less worries than a scuba diver with regards the possible ailments that could affect him – he still has the physics of nature to deal with. Namely the way in which an airspace underwater is forced to compress and to expand as it is taken from the surface down, and then up to the surface again. This pressure can be felt in the ears and sinus of a freediver when he is changing depth. This pressure build-up can, if left unchecked, lead to ruptured ear drums and other nasty injures. The way we avoid this is by equalising our ears (usually by swallowing, moving your jaw or your tongue) which ensures the pressure on one side of the flexible drum is the same as on the other side. Some divers require time to equalise which can make freediving difficult, and others will have problems if they make many ascents and descents in quick succession (the ear drum begins to swell).
• Decompression Sickness – Before those of you in the know rush to write an email to complain that I’m talking nonsense – “freedivers don’t breathe compressed air so they don’t load up on any significant nitrogen levels, therefor won’t suffer DCS…” I agree with you! If you’d let me finish…jeez, a guy can’t get a word in edgeways with these imaginary readers complaining all the time! Anyway, if you imagine the situation where a scuba diver has been on a dive trip and gets back to the boat early after his second dive of the day and he decides to go for a snorkel while he waits for the other dive groups to surface. Then, when he’s out snorkelling, he sees a big turtle at twenty meters and decides to freedive after it. In this situation the diver still has all the nitrogen in his body from the last two dives, which when added to the extra nitrogen he picks up on his freedive, can lead to a problem when our diver bolts to the surface when he realises he’s not the young, healthy lad he was and that a twenty meter freedive was a bit ambitious at his age!

Dive With A Buddy

There are very few scuba divers out there who would ever think it smart to dive without a buddy. Especially when you consider that if you have a problem underwater, nobody will know unless they are within visual range. Shouting for help isn’t much use at fifteen meters deep.

So why should it be any different with freediving? The difference is that a freediving buddy team will work in a different manner to that of a scuba team. Whereas a scuba buddy will ensure they are close by their partner and try to maintain the same depth as them, a freediving buddy will stay on the surface, next to the float with a snorkel in their mouth and watch their counterpart make their dive. This way he is fully rested and has a full lung of air if he sees his friend get into trouble. If they dived together they might find that they are both at the edge of their limits and would be unable to assist their amigo. This can work in bigger groups than two, you could have a group of four with a two up, two down alternation which would provide double the cover should an issue arise.

The Only Way You Will Survive A Blackout Underwater Is If You Have A Buddy Watching Out For You From The Surface.

Don’t Try To Break Records!

This is general advice that you can apply to almost any pursuit, but it is particularly relevant to freediving because of the element of competition involved. If you are new to the sport then it is obvious that you should take your time and gain experience in the techniques involved before you attempt any wild maneuverers.

It is also true for those for those who are comfortable with the practices of freediving, they should plan and prepare at least as much a scuba diver. This means preparing a first aid kit for the float or boat, having emergency oxygen available, suspending one or more tanks with regulators at various points of the freedive attempt. If the attempt you are doing is at the edge of your abilities (in training for instance) then it would be wise if you could get an experienced scuba diver or two to support you underwater so if a problem arrises they can provide you with their alternate air source. Freediving doesn’t have to be dangerous if you take the appropriate precautions.

The Amount Of Planning And Preparation That Potential Record Breakers Put Into Their Attempts Is Enormous, Make Sure You Follow Their Lead And Prepare Yourself Before Going Under.

Final Thoughts

I hope this article has gone someway to unveiling this exciting and flourishing sport for those who were curious but uninformed. There is still a whole lot more to learn about freediving than was covered in this article, and most importantly you need to get into the sea and start experimenting – just take it slow at first! Get a friend, fins, mask and float and enjoy a Saturday exploring Earth’s final frontier.

Are you a freediver? Is it a sport you want to get into? Why do you freedive; do you hunt, take pictures, compete or just explore? Please share your experiences by leaving a comment in the section below.

Happy breath-holding!

By Jamie Campbell

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Masks

We go diving to see the underwater world. We want to gaze at a whale shark cruising above our heads, we want to ogle as a manta ray glides below our feet and the chance to glimpse a sea turtle is a big excitement for any diver. What links all these statements is our sight, when we go diving we want our vision to be as close to that of the surface as possible so we can watch the animals of the deep do what they do best; amaze us.

Obviously our sight is poor underwater because our eyes are not adapted to directly interpret light in liquid. Thus, we require a thin layer of air around our eyes to allow them to focus and to maximise comfort (I find salt water on my eyeballs very unpleasant). So, we wear masks to protect our eyes from the water and to give us the best possible view of our aquatic wonderland (or just your dive computer if the visibility is bad…).

The following is a guide to the basics of choosing, using and caring for a mask – your peephole into the sea.

Shapes – Masks come in a huge range of shapes and sizes and each have their own advantages and drawbacks. Some styles are almost extinct whereas other designs are becoming chic SCUBA fashion.

• Single/Double Lens – Older masks had only one large square glass view box which offered limited view range. The single lenses of today are stretched downwards (towards the cheeks) and wide (towards the ear), this gives them a very large sight angle. They can be prone to breakages because of their large plate of unsupported glass. The double lens mask aims to overcome this by splitting the lens into two large view goggles. This gives the lens more support making it more resilient to stray gear banging against it in a kit bag. This extra durability comes at the cost of a (slightly) narrowed viewing angle.
  

  Old Single Lens Mask

• Wraparound – A wraparound mask is one where a single lens has been manufactured with side windows to widen the divers view considerably. This gives the diver a three dimensional space to peer into the abyss from – a real advantage when working with students or novice buddies as you can easily ensure they are still with you by glancing out the corner of your eye. They often have a shorter vertical viewing angle – which means it could be harder to see your gauges.
  

  Wraparound - Scubapro Crystel Vu

• Frameless - This is a fairly new mask design trend which entails the removal of the large bulky frame that holds the lens in place in traditional masks and uses the lens itself as the structural body with the skirt being glued directly onto the lens. This makes for an even larger view range, lighter mask and better storage flexibility but sacrifices durability as the lens is a large target to break and is unsupported.
  

  Frameless - Sherwood Scuba Rona

• Low Profile – Most modern mask designers strive to make the mask’s profile as low as they can, this means that the mask has as little air space inside it as possible. This makes it easier to clear because less air is needed to force the water out. They usually achieve this by bringing the lens as close to the wearer’s face as possible.

Materials – Masks are heavy use items that arguably affect the quality of a dive more so than any other item of equipment, therefore modern mask manufacturers use a range of different materials to achieve light, comfortable and durable pieces of gear.

• Plastic – When used in making mask skirts (the part that touches your face) this material tends to be inflexible which is detrimental to its comfort and effectiveness. All but extinct, only used in the cheapest masks.

• Silicone - Modern masks are almost exclusively made with this material as it is durable, stretchy, soft, cheap and fairly neutral to skin. Silicone is used to make the skirts and straps on most masks. The quality of the silicone can be tested by simply comparing the softness of the skirts. If it is very soft it will mould to the contours of your face better and feel more comfortable (though it may be less tear resistant).

• Glass – Almost all masks use glass for the viewing window because it provides greater clarity than plastics while still remaining very strong. The lens is tempered glass to resist shattering and will take a great deal of punishment. Prescription lenses are also available and are made from glass.

Straps – A mask must be watertight, even during fast swimming and in heavy currents which means that it must be held onto your head with some force, while remaining comfortable and being adjustable for the huge variation in diver’s head sizes.

• Silicone - Most mask straps use a silicone strap that splits into two at the back (at the crown of your head) to spread the load and keep it stable. The straps are usually adjusted by a notch and ratchet system that allows the diver to loosen the strap, hold the mask in place and then pull the straps tight. The ratchet will keep the straps at this tightness. The system is well known but not particularly suited to delicate adjustments, nor threading the strap into the ratchet after removing the strap (which might be necessary to affix a snorkel to the mask).
  

  Silicone Mask Strap

• Covers - Divers like to modify their gear. They want to know what gear is theirs in a busy boat, they want to be instantly identifiable under the water and they want to be at least semi-individual. There are approximately a billion mask strap covers available on the market today to help serve this need. The covers are simple neoprene sleeves that fit over the silicone strap to make it more comfortable by padding the thin straps and by reducing the amount that a mask strap pulls your hair. They also come with every bad diver joke ever told scrawled across them – each to their own I guess…
  

  Neoprene Mask Covers

• Velcro™ – To take the idea of modifying your mask further I’d recommend using a Velcro™ mask strap. It fits into most mask ratchets but doesn’t use the ratchet to hold the strap in place, instead it uses Velcro™ to secure the strap. This means that once the diver has found the right size (which is easy – you can be millimetre perfect) the strap never needs adjusted. At the crown there is a neoprene patch like the strap covers that allows the strap to stretch and fit comfortably. This is my personal choice.
  

  Velcro Mask Strap

Fit – Now that you know which mask you want, you need to try it on, because if it doesn’t fit perfectly then it’s not the mask for you. Fit is key to choosing a mask.

• Fitting - To fit a mask you must first move the strap the front of the lens and brush your hair from your face. Next, hold the mask against your face and gently, and for a prolonged period, inhale through your nose. The mask should suction to your face closely and with no apparent air gaps. Follow this with a test of the mask’s comfort by putting it on properly with the strap in place, adjust if necessary. Feel the weight of the mask, move your head around and test your range of vision. Try looking at your waist, where your gages will likely live or over your shoulder at imaginary divers. If there are any pinch points, especially on the bridge of your nose then this mask is not for you.

• Troubleshooting - A mask can cause a range of problems for the novice user:
• One perennial problem is a diver getting a sore point on the bridge of his nose, this is often caused by a double lensed mask that has a too small nose pocket, the solution to this is to use a larger, single lens mask.
• Hair is the enemy of a perfect seal around your face. Always remember to brush any head hair out from your forehead. If you have long hair then you will likely tie your hair back anyway but pay particular attention to your fringe to avoid unnecessary leaking.
• A less easy hair problem to solve is for those gents that dive unshaven – a beard or moustache will let in an uncomfortable amount of water unless properly treated. The simple solution is to shave off the whiskers but this is not to everyone’s taste (divers are a vain lot) so the best tip is to use some Vaseline™ or wax to help make a seal around your facial hair (not ideal, but better than diving blind).

Care – Once you’ve tested all the masks in the shop (this isn’t an exaggeration – really try every mask) and found your dream visor you will want to keep it in good, working condition. Masks are simple to look after but easily forgotten in a gear cleanup.

• Defogging - A mask must offer clear viewing (even if the sea doesn’t) so a fogged lens is as much use as a soluble dive computer. Divers have a hundred ways of fixing this problem but tried and tested works best for me. I toothpaste the inside of the mask lens when I fist get it to remove the manufacturing film. Just apply and smear standard toothpaste all over the lens and then, after a few hours, rinse it off (pick a toothpaste that smells nice – you will smell it for the first couple of dives!). Once the lens is prepared you have two options – either use a defogging spray which are very effective but are a little pricey, or use good old-fashioned human saliva. Spit onto the lens before the dive, rub it around and don’t wash it off. The saliva resists the fogging.
  

  Mask Defog Spray

• Cleaning – Always rinse your mask after use, even in the pool or freshwater. Once in a while you should give your mask a good soak in warm, soapy water and give it a light scrub. Never use any abrasive cleaners, or boiling water. A disinfectant is a good choice for getting rid of tropical mould – use a medical disinfectant if possible.

• Storage – Once you’ve cleaned your mask you should store it somewhere dry, room temperature, out of direct sunlight and away from heavy objects that might bang it. Consider using the box it came in (most are designed to be used as a case) for protection and possibly put some silica gel packets in with it to keep it dry. Try to keep the mask’s shape while storing to prevent deforming.

By Jamie Campbell

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The Need For Buoyancy Control

Even the most novice diver knows that buoyancy in diving is important, despite it being one of the most difficult skills to master in the sport. A diver’s ability to maintain good buoyancy will drastically affect every other aspect of their diving; from their air usage to their ability to assist other divers.

Good buoyancy is the mark of an experienced diver, yet it is often only taught to a basic standard in the open water level of tuition, the rest is left to the diver to pick up as they go. This guide offers some simple troubleshooting for those of you who feel that your understanding of buoyancy is basic at best, or it might just serve as a stimulus to spend the next two dives really focusing on getting your position in the water just right.

Technique

It is almost impossible to “teach” technique via the written word but it is possible to give some hard learn advice. The primary factor in buoyancy control is your breathing. Ultimately there is little to explain about buoyancy – air will make you float and lead will make you sink, apply or expel enough of each to achieve desired result…done. But it’s not quite that easy, is it? Because we must breathe by in-taking a lung full of air and expelling it we constantly alter our buoyancy. This doesn’t mean that we, as humans, cannot achieve fish-like stability when diving, it simply means that we must use our lungs to help us control our attitude in the water.

There are many ways in which a diver can breathe to change his depth and position, but it is always best to adopt a deep, slow breathing rhythm that will reduce dead-air consumption from the regulator and allow you to carefully modulate your buoyancy by breathing in/out a little slower or faster. This does not mean that you have been given permission to hold your breath by me, this is still a number one no-no, but a slightly slower exhale will leave air in your lungs for longer and will give you slightly more positive buoyancy. Simple things like this change you from a rookie diver into a competent one.

Equipment

We are land animals, meaning that we are not designed to spend any extended time underwater. Sure, we can hold our breath and swim down but that does not equate to hovering motionless or gliding freely when submerged. This is because almost all humans are either positive or negatively buoyant and require aid to stay still in water. The gear that enables comfortable diving is quite extensive and can be a little tricky to master at first.  Now we will look at the gear that helps, and the gear that affects, our buoyancy.

Weight Systems

The obvious and primary equipment for countering your body and suit’s positive force is ballast, usually in the form of lead weights. It’s the great curse of every dive professional to have to guess the weights for their divers. Knowing how much weight a diver needs is difficult and relies on many factors including the diver’s experience, the type of dive, the gear they are using and their body size. The best bet is to do a buoyancy check at the surface with a near-empty tank.

Another thing to consider is not just how much lead you take with you, but how you intend to distribute it on your body. There are many weight systems that each have their own advantages and disadvantages:

• Block - A simple system of different sized blocks of lead with space to thread a nylon belt through – good for quick weight belt assembly but can be uncomfortable and difficult to arrange for perfect trim. Tip: ensure the blocks are symmetrical on your belt and body, try moving the blocks towards your hips for better balance. Also, if you pass the belt through one eye of the block, twist it and feed it through the other then the block will not slip on the belt.
  

  Block Weight System - Simple and Effective

• Shot – This is very small lead balls that are poured into pockets on a belt. This allows for perfect weight distribution and more comfort, but is fiddly, time consuming and only good for personal weight belts. (i.e. Not rental)
  

  Shot Weight Belt System

• Integrated – This system is more and more common now and provides a very comfortable way to carry your lead as it is built into the BCD itself. It tends to put the weight on your hips and is easy to jettison. Tip: most integrated weight BCDs have trim pockets at the back of the jacket – use these to alter your position in the water for better horizontal diving or easier vertical sitting.

Tanks

Tanks affect your buoyancy greatly being as they are bulky and heavy. A good tank choice for your dive can greatly reduce the amount of lead required for your weight system. Though other types of tank exist, the following are the two you are most likely to encounter:

• Aluminum – Generally used in tropical countries where metal corrosion is a worry and where less buoyant exposure suits are generally used. They are negatively buoyant but not by much. They tend to be larger than steel tanks to carry the same amount of air.
• Steel – These tanks are more dense and can carry air at higher pressures. This makes for a heavier tank. If you are diving in a dry suit then a large steel tank vastly reduces the amount of lead you will need and if you are in a long wetsuit then you might be able to loose the weight belt altogether.
  

  Steel Tanks Come In Many Sizes

Exposure Suit

Exposure suits keep you warm by putting a barrier of air or gas between you and the water. The colder the water, the more gas you need, the more buoyant the suit. A 3mm shortie is only 1kg-2kg buoyant, but a 7mm long suit with vest and hood might be more like 5kg-7kg. This depends on the size of the person of course.

Tip: when any gas is taken underwater it compresses which means it is less buoyant – this applies to exposure suits which means that their buoyancy at 10m is different to that at 40m – remember to add air to your BCD or dry suit as you descend to compensate, and discharge it as you ascend.

There are many kinds of suit but here they are broadly split into two for convenience:

• Wetsuit – A wetsuit is comprised of tiny, isolated gas bubbles trapped in neoprene. This gaseous neoprene floats very easily and is very easy to predict – the more neoprene needed, the more lead needed to keep it down. This is important when buying a wetsuit – only buy the style you need – if 5mm will do then don’t take a 7mm, your buoyancy and flexibility will suffer otherwise.
• Drysuit – This is a sealed suit that traps either air or gas inside it and stops the water from coming into contact with the diver at all. This is much more buoyant and requires a different approach to weighting as your whole body becomes positive. Some divers require ankle weights to maintain horizontal trim. Unless using a really heavy tank system you will require quite a large amount of weight which means positioning is critical. Ensure the buckle is in good order on your belt and that you have the belt on tight – if it slides on your body you will be diving on your side which is not a good look!

BCD (Buoyancy Control Device)

I bet you were wondering when I’d get round to writing about this crucial piece of buoyancy gear being as the clue is in the name – buoyancy control device! The BCD is essentially a jacket that can be filled or depleted of air from a hose via a button. This allows you to offset the weight of your gear and remain neutral at any depth or float comfortably on the surface.

A well fitting BCD with a good wing will allow a diver to coast in the water perfectly horizontal – it acts just as a plane wing does and offers stability while swimming.

A BCD With Wing Will Help A Diver Glide

Tip: Many rookie divers think that it doesn’t matter how heavy you make your weight belt as you can always compensate for it with your BCD. Although this is true, a full BCD is uncomfortable, causes excess drag (affects air consumption) and the air tends to move around in the jacket which tips you off balance. Try to get your weight down to an optimum level for better diving.

Fins and Auxiliary Gear

It is important to note that all of your gear has an effect on your buoyancy, either positive or negative. A torch and reel in one pocket might cause you to dive lopsided so it’s important to ensure even distribution of your gear. It might also affect your weight for the dive too – perhaps a heavy torch will mean you can loose a kilo off your weight belt on your night dive.

Another big factor in a diver’s buoyancy is their fins. A pair of modern, high-end fins will likely be positively buoyant which might affect you if you are wearing a dry suit. Likewise, a pair of heavy old Jetfins and a shorty might cause you to hang leg-heavy in your dive. Pay attention to these things and you will quickly attain a perfect, horizontal water position.

Old Style Fins Can Alter Your Position In The Water - Pay Attention To This

Final Tips

There are some things that affect your buoyancy that are a bit more difficult to alter, namely your body and it’s composition. It is basically true that a smaller, denser person (more muscle/less fat) will require less weight and a larger, less dense person will need more. There are big variables at work in this statement and it is definitely not true for all people, but generally this is the case.

One last point to mention is that by relaxing, and by this I mean actively trying to calm down and enjoy yourself, you will find that you pick up and maintain a smooth and reliable breathing rhythm, you will hold your breath less and you will be more able to feel your body in the water – this is a big key to gaining control of your buoyancy – awareness of yourself while diving.

By Jamie Campbell

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Every rookie diver knows what they need to buy once they decide to invest in a full set of SCUBA gear. They will spend hours deciding if they need the top of the line regulator or if they can make-do with the second best. They will try on several BCDs and still not be satisfied. Yet, once they have bought their mask, fins, regulator set, BCD and an exposure suit I would argue that they still aren’t fully equipped. This is because I believe that a diver needs more than to simply survive the dive – they should have all the tools necessary to make their dive more fun, more comfortable and, ultimately, more safe. Basically, what follows is a small list of gear that you might not have considered when buying your SCUBA set and a little guide to buying each gadget. Some of these items are obvious and some are less so, but in every case I have heard of a diver who needed one and didn’t have one, or the gear they had was poorly chosen for the task.

Compass

This might seem like a patronizing place to start our foray into the other necessities of diving being as it is common knowledge that you need a compass to navigate underwater, yet I could count on one hand how many experienced divers dive with me and have their own compass. I understand why they don’t want to spend extra cash on an item they have no intention of using or, have no idea how to use effectively. This is especially true being as most divers dive with divemasters and do not guide. Yet it is so easy to split up when in a group of four or more and if the visibility is poor then navigating with natural features is often tricky – so you look at your compass which you set on a bearing before your descent, retrace your steps and find your group. Simple, yet rarely done.

Notes for buyers:

• If you go for an analogue compass (my preference) make sure it is aligned for your region – one compass will not work perfectly world-wide due to magnetic field variations.
• Check its tilt angle tolerance – some will stick if you hold it anything other than flat.
• Make sure its face is luminous, night divers rely on a compass even more than day divers.

Compass which I like is Suunto SK7 Wrist Compass

Surface  Marker Buoy

Otherwise known as a (S)urface  (M)arker (B)uoy or safety sausage, a SMB is a required piece of a pro-diver’s equipment. It allows a diver to announce his location to the surface without changing his depth. This means that a diver can ascend knowing he will not get a close hair cut from a passing speed boat, he will be able perform a safety stop or deco stop while the boat manoeuvrings to pick him up or, as I tend to use it, a SMB in conjunction with a reel allows a diver to hang at any constant depth with minimal effort – a very useful tool for an instructor with no safe line to ascend with/ do skills on.

Notes for buyers:

• The SMB needs to be highly conspicuous – they are usually orange or yellow. Some even have small LED lights on the top for night tracking.
• Ensure the seams are strong – if you intend to hang on this buoy then it needs to be burst-resistant, especially in rough seas. Some are so strong that they can double as lift bags.
• The carry case it comes in is important to a diver as high-end SMBs tend to be bulky so think about how you intend to store this during the dive.

Xs Scuba Surface Marker Buoy is a great one

Reel

This essential piece of gear is multipurpose but will most likely be used with the SMB as stated above. A reel will not get tangled as easily as loose line and allows for speedy deployment of the buoy. It can also be used when searching in bad visibility with a buddy, by implementing the circular search pattern. A wreck or cave diver will take great care when choosing a reel as it becomes a lifeline when navigating a complicated overhead environment.

Notes for buyers:

• A good reel doesn’t need to be expensive but homemade improvisations rarely work and can lead to dangerous tangles.
• The reel system should be simple – a common finger reel with a good brass clip on the end is sufficient for most recreational divers.
• Only get as long a reel as you need, if you are an open water diver, a twenty meter reel will suffice as it can reach the surface from eighteen meters, even in mild current.

Our Suggestion – Aluminum Reel with Tension & Locking system

Writing Slate

I find this a difficult piece of gear to write objectively about being as I hate them! They distract divers from the dive and I have seen them send good divers straight into the coral or up to the surface. In short they are a pest. Yet, they are occasionally a blessing when signal communication breaks down into frustrated pointing and exasperated eye rolling. There is also a group of divers who like to take notes while on a dive to document their experiences, this is great as long as they can remain neutral when writing. It is also a great tool for teaching and a very useful piece of kit for a technical diver.

Notes for buyers:

• A slate is for short notes, not essays – keep it small.
• You will need a pencil, a standard wooden pencil works well though some opt for mechanical pencils to avoid broken lead underwater.
• Tec divers tend to use wrist mounted slates to help them keep track of their dive or their dive plan.

If you’ll decide to get this equipment try to get Multi-Page Wrist Slate from LeisurePro

Knife

This is a simple one, every diver should have at least one knife that is easily accessible. It should be very corrosion resistant (titanium is great but is very brittle and can snap easily so a high-grade of stainless steel is sufficient if you maintain it properly) and have a sharp blade. Some BCD mounted knifes have a flat head to avoid bursting your BCD, it also doubles as a prying tool. I carry one on my leg and a smaller back-up on my BCD to allow me to detangle myself even if a can’t get to one of my blades.

Notes for buyers:

• Check for corrosion resistance.
• Sharpness
• Heed maintenance guidelines (e.g. Do you need to dry and oil it straight after use?)
• Consider the knife’s buoyancy – a fisherman’s knife will float which might affect your own position underwater.

Aquatec T-REX Titanium Knife

Flashlight

Here’s another obvious piece of gear that a surprising amount of divers forget to buy or choose inappropriately for their needs. A torch might just be a little light to help a diver see into a cranny, or it might be a medium powered light for poor visibility and occasional night diving, or it might be a technical rig with a tank mounted battery and a strong lamp for deep/cave/wreck dives or regular night diving. Ensure you only buy what you need as torches can be very expensive and very heavy/bulky. Also, I would strongly consider getting a back-up flashlight and maybe even a chemical light for emergencies.

Notes for buyers:

• Ensure that if you are going to night dive that the torch is sufficiently powerful to give you piece of mind – I’d take at least a five watt LED.
• Buy a rechargeable model if possible, purely for the economics.
• Also, for night diving it’s useful to have a wide angled beam to give you maximum light coverage, but if the torch is for poor visibility day-diving then I’d take a focus adjustable lamp so you can pierce the sediment.

Pelican Nemo 2400 Flashlight

Clips

So you have all this great gear, and more (this list is by no means exhausted) so where are you going to put it? It helps if you have a good BCD with plenty of pockets and the less used stuff can be zipped away until required, but nobody wants three kilos of loose gear rattling around in their BCD. So, the smart diver clips their gear in convenient, streamlined locations around their set-up. For instance, a diver might choose to have their SMB on an aluminum carabiner at their waist, they might have their SPG console clipped into a hose rack on their left side, their octopus might be in a quick release clip on their right shoulder strap and they might have their compass on a retractor clip for convenience. Clips are perfect for tailoring your gear to your needs and there is always a clip to suit your requirements but be careful of becoming a Christmas tree, decorated with gear – you need to dive in this outfit too!

Notes for buyers:

• Aluminum carabiners are cheap and great for small items, they are easy to attach.
• Brass hooks are stronger, more durable, can be used to bang a tank but cost more.
• Retractor clips are good for storing gear that you will use frequently throughout the dive, they are costly and some are less than durable. They are spring-loaded wire reels.
• Bungee clips are lower tech solutions to the same problems the retractor addresses, they are more durable and cheaper but less effective and more bulky.
• Hose clips and octopus clips are great for keeping gear streamlined and accessible, there are many variations on the same design.
• Quick-release buckles are good for holding gear in place until it needs to be used, then it can be fully disconnected, used and reattached.

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